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What is the best top-roping in Little Cottonwood?

Original Post
Mike Walley · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 355

What are the best top-roping areas in Little Cottonwood Canyon or other areas near Sandy? I love to lead climb, but may need to climb solo on a top-rope with my Basic on the week days. Can anyone provide any good suggestions to do 5.8 to 5.10 single or half-pitch climbs that I can walk to set up a top-rope on? Let me know if you want to hook up to climb multi-pitch also. Thanks for any ideas!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822

Bongeater is a popular climb for solo TRing, rumor has.

There's a route or two kinda between the waterfront and the Green A that you can get to the top of. Names escape me, but, if you walk from the base of Kermit's Wad, down towards the Waterfront, look to the right and you'll see some fairly easy to access anchor areas that would work.

University Slab.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

Parleys Canyon and Ferguson Canyon are the most popular TR-ing in that grade range

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

Ferguson has 1, maybe 2 if you work very hard, TR-able routes that are being gang-banged as we speak I'm sure.
I second Parley's, all 3 walls have easily accessible tops.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175

Big might be easier for TRs. Narcolepsy is a sure thing. Aquaduct can be done with some exposure. Maybe the Slips, don't know.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 889

Brian you're thinking of 'Barefoot in Barbados'. A short little 3rd class to reach the anchors of it accessed from the western end of the Kermit's Wad gravel bench.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Head South to Rock Canyon. It has the best range of top ropable climbs that are easy access. 5.8-5.10 there are quite a few. I started climbing there 25+ years ago and now live in SLC and still enjoy climbing down there when I can. I would love to get out sometime. Hit me up.
Dallen

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Got that Mike? Good TRs pretty much everywhere BUT Little. I'll throw in a vote for Sport Utility and the Reef.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

I would say that TR's in Little are harder to come by then other places. Not impossible but definitely Harder.
Dallen

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970
Sunny-D wrote:Head South to Rock Canyon. It has the best range of top ropable climbs that are easy access.

Yup. All of these walls offer pretty easy toprope access:

• Red Slab
• Ed & Terry Wall
• Black Rose
• Green Monster
• Bolt Slab
• The Appendage
• The Kitchen
• The Zoo
• PA's Mother (I think; I've never toproped it but have seen people do it)

All of those are quartzite except for the Zoo, which is limestone.

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970

And I've never been there, but on the Red Rock page it says "everything can be toproped or lead."

Mike Walley · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 355

Thanks for all of the great ideas! It can be a great workout to cruise up and down solo and get up to 10-15 laps in over 2 to 3 hours. I live in Boulder, CO and visit SLC every-other month for work. I have always enjoyed leading in Little Cottonwood, but didn't know of what I could TR since I had never done that here. Anyone can join me on a climb if you have time in UT or CO. Just drop me a line! I appreciate all of your ideas and will check them all out ASAP.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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