communication on multipitch pitfalls

Regarding tugs -
3 tugs + a pile of rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay off.
3 tugs with no rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay on.
Fail-safe = when in doubt, belay it out.

Mitch Zimmerman wrote:my dad is back so please go easy on him.

You're still trying to maintain that charade? That's cute.

Gregger Man wrote:Regarding tugs - 3 tugs + a pile of rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay off. 3 tugs with no rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay on. Fail-safe = when in doubt, belay it out.

WINNING!

Just link to this post instead of all of the others.

Sounds good to me too!

jmeizis wrote: Yes, when I explain how to do this to a new partner or climber I usually say I'll do three to indicate off then yell. They'll know for sure when I start pulling up route quicker than I could climb and then drop it. They reply with three tugs. They know they're on when they get two tugs and the rope stays tight. They can reply with two tugs but not really necessary.

Not sure, but it sounds like you are asking your second to respond to your "off belay" signal with three tugs down on the rope? I'm gonna suggest that is not a good idea just because of the consequences if there is a miscommunication and you are actually still on lead. Really, there is no need for any tugs/signals from the second.

Gregger Man put it very well:
3 tugs + a pile of rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay off.
3 tugs with no rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay on.
Fail-safe = when in doubt, belay it out.

After putting the second on belay and signaling them, be ready to take up any new slack immediately, so the second can be assured they are on belay.

jmeizis wrote: Yes, when I explain how to do this to a new partner or climber I usually say I'll do three to indicate off then yell. They'll know for sure when I start pulling up route quicker than I could climb and then drop it. They reply with three tugs. They know they're on when they get two tugs and the rope stays tight. They can reply with two tugs but not really necessary.

Not sure, but it sounds like you are asking your second to respond to your "off belay" signal with three tugs down on the rope? I'm gonna suggest that is not a good idea just because of the consequences if there is a miscommunication and you are actually still on lead. Really, there is no need for any tugs/signals from the second.

Gregger Man put it very well:
3 tugs + a pile of rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay off.
3 tugs with no rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay on.
Fail-safe = when in doubt, belay it out.

After putting the second on belay and signaling them, be ready to take up any new slack immediately, so the second can be assured they are on belay.

Dave Swink wrote: Not sure, but it sounds like you are asking your second to respond to your "off belay" signal with three tugs down on the rope? I'm gonna suggest that is not a good idea just because of the consequences if there is a miscommunication and you are actually still on lead. Really, there is no need for any tugs/signals from the second. Gregger Man put it very well: 3 tugs + a pile of rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay off. 3 tugs with no rope remaining at the belayer's feet = belay on. Fail-safe = when in doubt, belay it out. After putting the second on belay and signaling them, be ready to take up any new slack immediately, so the second can be assured they are on belay.

+1 to Dave and Greggerman. 3 tugs for on, 3 for off, it is obvious whether it is off or on from the context. And you never want your belayer tugging down on the rope to communicate to you. If they got the wrong message, they will just pull you off, or at the worst how are you going to tug back the "right" message. When in doubt they should just keep you on belay.