I need cragging advice for NC

We are heading out for a week long spring break trip this weekend, and the weather forecast is for hot and humid across the east coast.

I would prefer to climb somewhere cool and dry, and wyoming isn't an option, so I figure North Carolina is the best option. Can someone recommend crags that have the following characteristics:
- Hard climbs (12,13+)
- Shady
- High elevation (preferably)
- Safe/practical to bring kids to

I have been to Hawksbill and the N face of looking Glass, so I know about those. From my perusal of the Lambert guide, I've also identified a few possibilities such as Crowders (Hidden Wall?), and parts of Rumbling Bald (Hanging Chain area?) and Moores Wall (First in Flight/Hanging Garden area?), but my impression is that these crags may be bad for kids, not shady, or closed for nesting falcons.

Are there other crags I should consider?

Not cragging, per se, but Whitesides fits the first three clarifiers.
Definately not the place for kids, though.

You've pretty much assessed all of the most worthwhile areas.
Maybe there's something in the high country along the Blue Ridge Pkwy.
Others on this site should be able to offer guidance in that direction.

Alternatively, Looking Glass satisfies all but the high elevation thing....some hard stuff in areas other than the NF, but may not be shady.

Tall order.

Crowders would be a bad choice compared to the rest of the options in NC. The quality of the climbing/rock isn't as good as your other options.

Moore's is definitely shady and I believe only the north end is closed for falcons trying to have baby falcons. Carolinaclimbers.org is is good resource for closure info. It's just as "kid friendly" as any other typical crag. The approach hike is short. It is a piedmont crag so I'm not sure that it would meet your elevation requirement but it's definitely shady.

Can't comment on rumbling bald.

When I read your description the first thing I thought of was the N side of Looking Glass.

Ben is right about the parkway. Pick up a High Country Cragger. There are several stout sport/trad cliffs on 221 just below Grandfather Mountain. All of these places are easy for kids to get to and safe for them to hang around. You can order that guide on the internet or pick one up in the area. There is also good bouldering and free camping all around that area.

The Hanging Garden at Moores is a very bad idea with kids. The approach gulley is quite dangerous and there is little space to run around once up there. The north side is closed for peregrines.

It might be a pain getting in to the single pitch stuff at Whitesides. Steep in and out.

The north face of Looking Glass is probably a great option. Just watch for snakes. Not high on elevation, but it does offer a few climbs protected from rain around the Glass Menagerie area. Cedar Rock, near the Glass, should be cool this time of year also, but trying to climb slab at 12+ is not always the most fun.

Hidden Wall at Crowder's will be hot if the weather is hot. Very low elevation there and lots of crimpers to grease off of. The same goes for the Bald, it is a winter only crag. You need temps in the mid-50s and lower.

Moores is not high elevation but is awesome, shady, and has lots of harder routes. If you've never done it, wild kingdom on the Fire Wall is a mega classic (second pitch mainly). There is easily a day or two's worth of hard climbing on that wall alone. Hanging garden would be good if you didn't have the kids, and the north end is closed (bummer).

Lots of small (mostly) sport crags around boone.

I know of a few good spots in linville gorge that may fit the bill. Hawksbill has already been mentioned, but (and I don't know how old your kids are, or how far they can walk on a good trail) the linville river crag has a good days worth of fun harder lines in a cool setting. It's about a 1 1/2 miles approach. It's in grimbos guide, but there have been some new lines added as well as some changes made, so PM me if you'd like an updated document. If you like hawksbil, you'd like this small crag for sure.

The catwalk at whitesides was mentioned and would be ideal. Almost everything there is hard. Most of the approach is very easy and short, but there is a short steep descent down a gully to access the ledge proper (which is large, spacious and grassy). I've carried my small dog into there, for example. These routes are vertical and crimpy on very grippy rock! I have some info on this place too if you're interested.

Hey Mike, have you looked at Shiprock at all? I've not been there, but always hear it mentioned as a warm-weather location.

If I could find anyone interested in splitting gas, I'd head down and meet y'all.

Thanks all for the advice, keep it coming!

I'm surprised a few have said Looking Glass isn't high elevation. The Lambert guide says it's at 4,000', which is the same as Hawksbill and the other Linville Gorge areas.

I will try to find the High Country Cragger...that sounds promising.

nbrown: The Linville River crag sounds awesome...I'll be contacting you. Is there a topo for the catwalk at Whitesides? It's mentioned in the Lambert guide, but not topos or route descriptions.

Paul...I might be able to talk Shawn into coming down for the weekend. The weather for the Red looks gawdawful...mid 70s with 70% humidity.

Check out Big Green. There's not much info on here, but there is in the NC Select book. The hike is ~20minutes and the camping/crag/waterfalls are all very kid friendly. It is backcountry camping in the Valley but you can car camp at the trailhead.

Mike Anderson wrote: Is there a topo for the catwalk at Whitesides? It's mentioned in the Lambert guide, but not topos or route descriptions.

A few of the catwalk routes are listed on here. I think that the route to the right of X70 under the roof is called Calculator and is 12d. The route left of Pussyfooting may be mid twelve, but I am really not sure.

Pickens Nose, has some 12's and 13's. Been there once, I think it would be fine for kids, but don't have any info on it really.

Moore's Wall - My favorite small crag in the world. Unfortunately, it might not be your best option on this trip for several reasons. The Hanging Garden Area is definitely NOT kid friendly, as you have to do easy 5th to get there and rap down. The North End is closed for birds, and the Fire Wall gets sun for most of the day. There are other areas with 12's, but those three areas hold the most and the best, and maybe all of the 13's. Maybe not this trip, but if you have a chance to get to any of those areas, you will absolutely not be disappointed. Some of the best rock I have ever pulled on, and it would be a shame for someone climbing as hard as you to never see Moore's Wall.

Ship Rock/High Country - The place to go when it's hot. There are some excellent routes at Ship, but I don't know of any 13's. It fulfills all of your requirements though, and is in a beautiful setting. Also a lot of other small areas around there. Another vote for the High Country Cragger.

Linville Gorge - A MUST see in NC. Not sure if it would classify as kid friendly... depends on where you go. nbrown has the best beta for that area (and all areas really).

Rumbling Bald - Hanging Chain is another area that you really must check out... just not on a hot day. If you're trying to escape from heat, this is not the place.

Looking Glass - You've been there, so you know how good it is. The only reason someone would say that it is not high elevation is that Ship Rock and the 221 stuff is above 5,000 (I think).

You'll have a good time no matter where you go. Enjoy!

Skip Crowders--it will be too hot and humid. Pickens Nose will be cool, but there is not much to climb there and it isn't close to other climbs (it is kid-friendly though).

In addition to the Gorge and north side of Looking Glass, give the High Country some serious consideration. It is relatively close to Linville so you could easily check out both areas.

FYI, Looking Glass is around 4,000. It is just that you are looking up at a ridge that tops out at over 5,000, so it "feels" lower.

Enjoy the trip--a full week of climbing will be great no matter which area you choose.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm definitely going to pick up the High Country guidebook in Boone and check out some of those crags.

Does anyone have beta for these Dave Sharrat routes near Lake Lure, "The Good" (13d trad) and "the Bad" (14b sport)?

I'm going to try to go to Moore's at least to have a look, if not to climb. I might be able to get a day away from the kids with a partner to check out the Hanging Garden.

Seeing that your from Ohio, have you checked into the Red or somewhere in WV? the New. I was in both last week and had great weather except for 2 days. it shouldn't get humid much either. especially in the New.

Catwalk @ whitesides is indeed awesome for vertical crimping. The boulder problem in the sky / SW corner area listed on the MP page also has some nice cragging up to 12b with a short 5 minute approach. All the other cragging routes on the far left of whitesides would be a nice option but are closed for peregrines now. Also check out the stuff near the full shred buttress on big green. Like Live at leads, Full shred, and some of the 11's to the right. The approach is easy and the setting is amazing. This wall is in the shade in the morning and full shred stays in the shade most of the day. As for pickens nose, there are a few hard routes and/or projects on a tall, severely overhung wall. There are a variety of other easy to hard routes there, but the other stuff isn't really worth the trip for a non local compared to other places in the SE. The gate to the top of the mountain is usually closed from January to March or April though. But it is definitely a cool crag at 5000 feet elevation and breezy, plus a super easy mile long approach.

Mike Anderson wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm definitely going to pick up the High Country guidebook in Boone and check out some of those crags. Does anyone have beta for these Dave Sharrat routes near Lake Lure, "The Good" (13d trad) and "the Bad" (14b sport)? I'm going to try to go to Moore's at least to have a look, if not to climb. I might be able to get a day away from the kids with a partner to check out the Hanging Garden.

That is Ghost Town and does not have legal climbing access. It is also a winter destination. Very low elevation like the Bald and lots of sunshine. It is an okay crag when the season is changing since some of the walls face more west. The hiking around there may not be the best for kids. Very few places where the ground is flat and lots of steep approaches.

Not trying to throw a monkey wrench into this thing, but have you thought about going to the Obed in Tennessee instead? Amazing sandstone routes in all grade ranges and realtively easy to approach areas that are pretty kid friendly. It's tucked into a gorge and tends to stay a little cooler and many routes stay dry in the rain due to the mostly overhanging nature of the rock. Incredible place, but 3-4 hours away from where you're targetting though.

Pickens Nose sounds great, but I can't find any info on it. Is that in the High Country Craggers'?

Thanks for the scoop on Lake Lure, I guess that will have to wait.

Re. Obed...I think it will be too hot and humid there...that is the whole point. Our first choice was the Red, but it's going to be too smarmy. I've had pretty good success climbing in NC in the middle of summer by going to high elevation, shady crags. Considering that summer has decided to start in early March, I'm targetting those crags now.

Pickens Nose is in Macon County, near Coweeta Hydrological Laboratory, and almost in Georgia. It is probably a 5 hour drive from Boone. While it is a fun little crag if you are in the area, it isn't a destination area.

Mike, if you've never been to moores you owe it to yourself to go. It's by far the best cragging mentioned thus far. And like I said earlier, wild kingdom is a classic in anyones book; it's probably worth a trip just to do that one route.

We went to middle Hawksbill yesterday..temps in the upper 50s with ~60% humidity.. Pretty good considering the alternatives. My wife sent one of her hardest routes...Appalachian Spring--great route.

It's very rainy today, we're going to try out The Dump tomorrow.

Thanks again for the advice.