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dorseyec
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Nov 8, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
Ohhhhh you mean how you backpedaled and changed it to a "theoretical" question after everyone told you what a bad idea it was. Gotcha.
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Evan Sanders
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Nov 8, 2011
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Westminster, CO
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 140
dorseyec wrote:Ohhhhh you mean how you backpedaled and changed it to a "theoretical" question after everyone told you what a bad idea it was. Gotcha. Glad we're on the same page. Now, really, I'm taking up space in a thread that I shouldn't be. Until next time.
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dorseyec
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Nov 8, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
haha at least its a pretty useless thread we are wasting space on.. Unless of course people are looking for information on how to lead belay with your bare hands.
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fat cow
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Nov 9, 2011
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St. Paul, MN
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 10
No one is addressing the fact that he claims to have yelled "hold" and lowered off. No fucking way. He didn't try down climbing while only three draws up on an easy route? He just decided to tempt fate, sit back, and put his weight (life?) into this guys hands. Nope, troll city.
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Eastvillage
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Nov 9, 2011
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New York, NY
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 80
Brandon, Maybe you could help the cause there by rounding up our old "retired" gear and bringing it to a new future back in Georgia. Sounds like it would be a huge improvement.
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dorseyec
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Nov 9, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
Killis what are you contributing by posting the same old tired face palm picture? We get it you are good at googleing pictures. At least I provided valuable information that this guy is an idiot and going to die if he doesn't make better choices. All you did was post the same old tired shit, "hes lame, heres a picture of a facepalm". Find something better to do with your time then stalk me in every thread I post. I thought you finally got your first girlfriend, shouldn't you be out spraying about her? Killis Howard wrote:Dorsal Fin (near the anus, biology uninformed) You would, again, be the uninformed one. Dorsal refers to being on the back of an organ or organism... it has nothing to do with being "near the anus". See what happens when you try to use words you dont know in an attempt to sound smart?
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Morgan Patterson
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Nov 9, 2011
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
If ur the climber it is ur responsibility to know your belayer's abilities and exactly how they intend to belay you. If you take off without knowing this you deserve a surprise that might wake you up... regardless of whether you're in the US or an international destination. The actions reported in the OP sure sound like an inept assessment of his belayer and the equipment available for the climb.
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dorseyec
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Nov 9, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
Morgan Patterson wrote:The actions reported in the OP sure sound like an inept assessment of his belayer and the equipment available for the climb. How dare you call him inept! Andrew G will take offense to your nasty tone!
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Brandon Gottung
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Nov 10, 2011
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CO Western Slope
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 1,838
There is nothing funny about any of this. Calling me inept, I understand, however I disagree; plus that implies they are all inept. Over my two hours at the wall, observing and climbing, I saw two such belays (one before my attempt, and one after). The first time I saw someone lower a climber from the top of the wall using only his hands, I was terrified for the climber. Naturally, I asked, whether anyone's been seriously injured or died - the answer - no. It's the way they do things presently. After chatting with my belayer, and asking him if he really could hold a fall using his hands, confidently says yes. So why not as long as I don't fall? Life is different here for sure, and this applies to many aspects of life - I choose to embrace it. You should see the crazy thing they do in the streets that they call driving. Anyway, I lowered off, told him it's terrifying, and he said he intends to 'make this place right, everything by the rules.' The shame in his voice was apparent. He admitted that the problem is a lack of money and available resources. Nathan's generosity will be appreciated and serve these folks well. Be thankful for the resources you folks have to climb hard and climb safe, moreover both at the same time.
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Brannen Brannen
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Nov 10, 2011
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Flowery Branch, GA
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 0
Since you're in Georgia, are y'all leading on knots over there? and if so were there any cool knots besides a monkey's fist? I saw something about a tricam type knot somewhere on the internet and always wondered how to make one...
(I'm just adding this because I've never actually seen somebody do a hip belay (much less belay with just their hands) but wouldn't a munter hitch work just fine. ) It seems like they have at least one harness or at least enough rope to make a loop to clip a biner into.
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Morgan Patterson
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Nov 10, 2011
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
Okay Brandon - so there are other options for a belay without a belay device... If you have a carabiner you can use the Munter knot for belaying. This knot can also be taught to those without belay devices. And would be a HUGE help to all those as they can teach others to belay on the knot. Also requiring one carabiner would be the 'chain link' belay. While I don't like the person I learned this from one eff'in bit, I could see how it could really help abroad given the availability of chain in the world. Literally, use a single chain link (unbroken) as a stitch plate with a biner to belay. Both safe for lead...
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Ken Noyce
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Nov 10, 2011
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Layton, UT
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 2,685
Morgan Patterson wrote:Okay Brandon - so there are other options for a belay without a belay device... If you have a carabiner you can use the Munter knot for belaying. This knot can also be taught to those without belay devices. And would be a HUGE help to all those as they can teach others to belay on the knot. Also requiring one carabiner would be the 'chain link' belay. While I don't like the person I learned this from one eff'in bit, I could see how it could really help abroad given the availability of chain in the world. Literally, use a single chain link (unbroken) as a stitch plate with a biner to belay. Both safe for lead... This is exactly what I was going to say. Two very inexpensive options and both are perfectly safe.
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dorseyec
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Nov 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
If they cant afford my suggestion of swami belts and ATC's you can find online for $5 I doubt they can even afford to buy a single carabiner. I don't think you guys realize how poor these countries are. In fact the rope is not a rope at all, just an old vine they found in a tree outside. Brandon you honestly thought that your belayer could catch a lead fall using nothing but his bare hands? Its good you got halfway up the wall and backed off but why on earth would you even think for a second that someone could do that. Have you seen the rope burns people receive from trying to do this? And yes I am implying everyone is inept if they are all lead belaying with just their bare hands... I just dont see anyway around that no matter how poor they are its still incorrect. Like I said I would rather not climb, or boulder, than get belayed in that way even if "its the way things are done over there".
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Morgan Patterson
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Nov 10, 2011
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
dorseyec wrote:If they cant afford my suggestion of swami belts and ATC's you can find online for $5 I doubt they can even afford to buy a single carabiner. I don't think you guys realize how poor these countries are. He said they had three draws... so they have some equipment. Either way, that part could be macgyvered and I would think each town has somewhere that has a chain link that could be spared.
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dorseyec
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Nov 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
I know... it was a joke at the people saying there is no way Russians/Georgians could get their hands on an ATC or webbing. I guess they don't have the internet or a mail system over there....
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Johny Q
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Nov 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 35
I saw someone in Thailand trying to belay like this and his partner hit the ground. Lucky for him the ground was sand. Agreed that it is a lack of information and not wealth that is leading to this situation. I have been to the Eastern block and it is indeed poor, but not so poor that a biner and a munter is an extravagant option. Additionally, you can set an entire belay and harness out of the rope you are climbing on. Not what I would want to do but I wouldn't want to live in Georgia either. What would be really great is if more morons could post some extra pointless pictures and bag on the discussion while claiming to be above it. I find irony super entertaining.
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Johny Q
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Nov 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 35
Killis Howard wrote:If all of the posters AND lurkers thought really, really hard, don't you think we could come up with something more useful to do with our lives? Like remove PD's that will get put up again the next day? Good idea.
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