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Best crags in Europe?

Original Post
joe caps · · Pasadena · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

I'm currently packing through Europe and was looking to spend a week or two at a crag during the second half of November. Im looking for suggestions considering the following:

finding partners
ease of access (i don't have a car)
camping
grading (i climb about 5.9 sport)

ive heard El Chorro is a good option. any others?

thanks

Owen Darrow · · Helena, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,795

Go to the Arco Valley and stay at a campsite. You will have tons of people who are climbing and driving to crags.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175

Arco rocks in every way possible. Great climbing, great camping, great town, all in short walking distance.

Vidal · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Another bump for Arco rocks! Arco is the Boulder, CO of Europe. Tons to climb and a fun little town with somewhat of a nightlife and accessible groceries, etc.

I personally like El Chorro better, but there is not much under 6a+ (5.10C) to climb. El Chorro is not much of a town and you have to travel to get groceries, etc.

I spent about a month in each place earlier this year, let me know if you have any questions.

Alex

Vidal · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Also, buy the European climbing atlas. One of the best guidebooks I've ever used. Includes detailed directions, protection information, and route grade information to (literally) every crag in the region.

Climbing Atlas

Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410

Arco is high on my list as well. It's got it all. From the short stuff to some big 500 meter routes at Le Placche Zebrate. The town is great. The coffee shop is owned by a former top climber and is where everyone meets in the morning. Great food and wine everywhere you look. It's hard to beat Arco. It really is.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175

These sites might also be helpful in researching your destination:

Climb Europe

World Topo

John mac · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 105

I did not go specifically to arco but was nearby, I think it might be a little chilly in nov?

I was in el churro last nov, it it was perfect. El chorro was amazing but for my money I would choose meteora Greece!

I spent most of 2010 climbing in Europe, and can tell you you will have a blast wherever you end up. Another great option is les calenques France.
You can't beat the culture in Italy though!

I have lots of pics and anecdotes at johnandlisaeurope.blogspot.com

Feel free to pm me with questions.

joe caps · · Pasadena · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

Thanks for the input. I went to Arco at the end of the month. I got on a few climbs, though not as many as I liked. But if I come back to Italy, Arco will definitely be a destination. The place was beautiful and there is rock everywhere. I left on the 3rd due to weather, and most everybody else was leaving as well.

I am still considering heading down to El Chorro as well, If anybody is looking for a partner. . Or anywhere in Spain for they matter, between the 17th and the 1st, I am looking to climb.

Thanks

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Arco is really cool. I went there for three weeks in the late 80s. Stayed in the campground and met some cool locals, who I climbed with. They introduced me to the guy who ran the bike shop, who loaned me a bike I could tool around on, etc. It was a blast.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Riglos maybe?

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

IMHO, that Rock Climbing Europe atlas is not very good (esp. for a 5.9 climber). A weird assortment of crags with so many good ones omitted (in favor of some that look...well, kind of lame). Sorry.

Montserrat might fit your bill? Supposedly climbable year round.
Meteora in Greece is another great one (the atlas above does do a decent job here. An exception)
Riglos is great but not much to do at 5.9 (or 5.10 :)

EDIT IN: apologies, was thinking of the "other" euro climbing atlas.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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