Reading Beta

TheBirdman wrote: I am curious though, what makes me a little hotheaded and prone to flying off the handle?

Big Butts? Babies that got back?

johnL wrote: I've definitely called YOUR mom while onsighting. Does that count?

Depends if you had a her number saved on your phone. Can't be an onsight if you already knew her number...

i think that remembering to stop and look ahead when possible is a tough habit to form. i can relate to the question that you have. john has some good points though. redpointing harder route will help your onsighting.

TheBirdman wrote: My endurance is really good, my finger strength has never held me back, and my technique is pretty sound.

Tell us then, what "fails" when you fail to OS a route? Do your fingers involuntarily open? Can you work up into the crux only a few times after backing down? You're failing for SOME physiological reason. Maybe focus training on that aspect.

The only exception to this I can think of is if you think every problem can be solved with a dyno. Not sticking a real good dyno pretty much = failure, I guess without any underlying physiological shortcoming. But then, that would be your problem... thinking you can dyno all the cruxes.

Gunkiemike wrote: Tell us then, what "fails" when you fail to OS a route? Do your fingers involuntarily open? Can you work up into the crux only a few times after backing down? You're failing for SOME physiological reason. Maybe focus training on that aspect. The only exception to this I can think of is if you think every problem can be solved with a dyno. Not sticking a real good dyno pretty much = failure, I guess without any underlying physiological shortcoming. But then, that would be your problem... thinking you can dyno all the cruxes.

I don't think it's physiological as much as it's poor planning. If I use bad beta, 12a bumps up to 12+ really quick. My point was I have sufficient physical ability to onsight 12a if I use the correct beta.

johnL wrote: I never claimed to have onsighted your mother.

That's because you aren't redpointing at a high enough grade. You simply need more mileage, but I'm not sure the hammock will help get you there. ;)