What do you use for a personal anchor?

Whats wrong with a good hand jam, that's what I use.

This weather sucks!!!

Climbing Mag also had a tech tip on this topic. Check out the article.

climbing.com/print/techtips…

DMM has also posted a video somewhere about FF1 & FF2 on to a slings that are dynema and nylon. Video here,

dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/h…

Im probably going to change to a Cordelette style anchor or a 8mm dynamic rope type anchor like Dom posted.

Surley it think this is a problem that has been around for a while and None of the gear companies have come up with a good solution.

Daisy Chains Fail so they said lets me the daisy chain stronger so the PAS/Chain type anchors came out. They wont break in a Fall but they have no streach/impact absoration so all of the force will be applied to your lower back/waist during a fall on the anchors. Likely causing sever injury or breaking your back. No So much fun.

It would be awesome if gear companys can come up with a personal anchor systemt that is 3-4' long, dynamic, adjustable, and has the ability to absorb a FF1/FF2 and limit the force to around 10KN, so it wont likely break/pull gear if your not on bolts.

This last weekend i went out and climbed devils tower. We rapped down i think Bon Homme. One of the rappel stations you stand on a ledge. The bolts are at waist height but they are 2-3' to your right and over open space. So you can only reach the 1st anchor, so your clipped in to one anchor, and a streach for another. It is very easliy to fall when transfering you weight to the anchor while riging up to rappel. This would rap station it would be really easy to have a FF .5 to 1 depending where your at while transfering your weight.

OMG, A PAS and dyneema, we're all gonna die!!

Mark Nelson wrote:OMG, A PAS and dyneema, We're all gonna die!!

FACT: That's not the rope coiled in front of that guy, but his very own INTESTINES!!!1111

sunder wrote: It would be awesome if gear companys can come up with a personal anchor systemt that is 3-4' long, dynamic, adjustable, and has the ability to absorb a FF1/FF2 and limit the force to around 10KN, so it wont likely break/pull gear if your not on bolts.

http://www.sterlingrope.com/product/155018/Chain/_/Chain_Reactors

stich, a little crazy-leg with the shift-key????////

(there has to be a term for that, I see it all the time)

Really, Mark, "!!!1111" has been a meme for over ten years.

Depends on situation as to what I use. I mostly use my rope and clove hitches. If I have more than one person on the team, I use the PAS which still needs to be used safely. Climbing is so dynamic; what you use on one climb you may not need to use on another.

Tech Tip on Anchor Tie in

Yeah sorry I didnt realize I was supposed to reply to this. I wasnt trolling just trying to get information on the safest way to do this. Thanks for all the suggestions the info has been great.

Line 7

For my anchor, I use a rope

Line...
Shit I forgot where I was.

I think the Malcom-Kor 9000 has taken over 2R

Been climbing for over 40 years and I've always set up my anchor with the main line (rope).

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2132231

purcell prusik tied with 6mm cord b/c:

1: it's adjustable, but without buckles
2: it's not dyneema or super skinny (i.e. it wears well)
3: I have cord to leave if I need to (v-threads, replace sling stations, etc...)
4: it's awesome
5: it's pretty fool proof

edit: i'm also lazy, google it and you'll find a wealth of information on why it's better and cheaper than most alternatives.

When y'all talk about tying in with the rope, do you mean a clove hitch to a single piece of gear? or clove hitch to 'biner attached to a master point? Or on a sport climb, clove hitch to 'biner to anchor/chains?

I use a Mammut belay sling and clove hitches. Has worked pretty well for years.

bv
white-knuckled.blogspot.com/

What are the knots used on the 8mm rope anchor shown above?

Just for the record, tying in with just the rope will work perfectly safe/fine on a single pitch sport route. (Just think about how you would handle things if you got to the anchors and most of your gear dissolved. I'm sure you'd make do.) It's just not at all efficient.
IMO it's most important to be proficient with whatever you choose to carry. Just be sure that your system is serene. (As I learned it: Solid Efficent Redundant Equalized NoExtention)
-Mackley

Robbie Mackley wrote:Just for the record, tying in with just the rope will work perfectly safe/fine on a single pitch sport route. It's just not at all efficient. IMO it's most important to be proficient with whatever you choose to carry. Just be sure that your system is serene. (As I learned it: Solid Efficent Redundant Equalized NoExtention) -Mackley

How does one tie in with just the rope at the top of a single pitch sport route? At some point when cleaning the anchor, you have to get off the rope in order to thread the rope through the anchor. Not sure how you'd safely and efficiently use the rope to do this and I've never in 20 years see anyone use the rope itself to anchor into a single pitch sport route.

During all this PA talk, of course it makes the most sense to use the rope when anchoring in at belays on multi-pitch climbs. But if you're cleaning anchors or anchoring in during multiple raps, you are going to get free of the rope at some point. Use a PAS, a daisy, slings, draws, pucell...it doesn't really matter as long as you recognize the limits of the system. Usually this means not climbing above you anchor! If you need to do so, use something dynamic.