Got a technique for removing a wedge bolt?

There's an old 3/8" wedge bolt that I'd like to upgrade -- but cutting it off, patching the hole, and drilling a new one nearby isn't going to work well here. The current bolt is really in the best spot, so I'd like to see if I can clean the hole out and reuse it (after expanding it to 1/2").

I've read about people using a steel bit to drill out the shaft. I'd think if you don't get lined up perfectly, this isn't going to work very well. Also, I could see trashing bits pretty fast if they get out the side of the shaft and hit the rock. I've also heard of special drill bits that can (theoretically) go through steel and rock, although I seem to recall people saying it didn't work very well.

Has anyone successfully done this before?

Thanks,

-Rich

Check out the ASCA website they've got a bunch of tips for anchor replacement and bolt removal. that is if you have not already done so.

Yeah, I've been through all that and don't recall anything that addresses wedge bolts.

Rich Farnham wrote:There's an old 3/8" wedge bolt that I'd like to upgrade -- but cutting it off, patching the hole, and drilling a new one nearby isn't going to work well here. The current bolt is really in the best spot, so I'd like to see if I can clean the hole out and reuse it (after expanding it to 1/2"). I've read about people using a steel bit to drill out the shaft. I'd think if you don't get lined up perfectly, this isn't going to work very well. Also, I could see trashing bits pretty fast if they get out the side of the shaft and hit the rock. I've also heard of special drill bits that can (theoretically) go through steel and rock, although I seem to recall people saying it didn't work very well. Has anyone successfully done this before? Thanks, -Rich

I've been rebolting lots of routes at my local crag and I have to say that wedge bolts are really hard to pry out. Unless your Arnold on roids, the guidelines from the ASCA are not going to work with a 3/8 wedge bolt. So, I know you don't want to chop the old bolt but you may have to. If the rock is compact, 10cm of distance is all you need. A little bit of Epoxy putty on the hole and hammering bits of rocks on the putty will render the chopped bolt invisible.

So I didn't answer your question at all but hopefully my post is worth something.

http://www.bolt-products.com/SustainableBolting.htm

This guy has it together when it comes to bolting.

His entire website is a good way to waste a couple days, lots of innovative stuff.

Not really helping here, but just adding to the curiosity. I have always wondered about this too.

Couldn't one just re-drill the old (or chopped) bolt, then use a glue-in to re-seal the hole with new bolt?

Dom wrote: I've been rebolting lots of routes at my local crag and I have to say that wedge bolts are really hard to pry out. Unless your Arnold on roids, the guidelines from the ASCA are not going to work with a 3/8 wedge bolt. So, I know you don't want to chop the old bolt but you may have to. If the rock is compact, 10cm of distance is all you need. A little bit of Epoxy putty on the hole and hammering bits of rocks on the putty will render the chopped bolt invisible. So I didn't answer your question at all but hopefully my post is worth something.

I've done that before on other rebolting projects, but I'd really like to avoid that for this case. The bolt position is pretty critical.

Darin Berdinka wrote:http://www.bolt-products.com/SustainableBolting.htm This guy has it together when it comes to bolting. His entire website is a good way to waste a couple days, lots of innovative stuff.

Thanks for the link. I've read a lot of that guys webpage before, but didn't recall the core drilling section. That's a pretty sweet rig he put together. I might have to invest in that set-up one day, but can't really afford it now.

Anyone else know another way?

If drilling the bolt shaft out is anything like doing that with machine bolts in other applications, I wouldn't count on it. Bolts are HARD steel, and unless the bit is dead-on center (like to within a couple thousandths), it's going to leave some steel in there/wander off center/get trashed against the rock/ovalize the hole. Or all of the above!

Disclaimer: I have no idea what I am talking about.

I have always wondered if a diamond hole saw could be used in this sort of application. Could a saw with a 1/2" outside diameter saw around the 3/8" bolt, freeing it? Lubrication and waste removal could be accomplished using a squirt bottle filled with water. If the bolt was deeper than the maximum cutting depth, maybe a small amount of the bolt could be drilled out directly. Thoughts?

turns out this was already discussed above. oops.