Infinite Bliss conditions?

I am thinking of heading up it, are all the bolts still intact? I heard someone was thinking of chopping it. Also, is is worth it to bring any trad gear for the run outs, or are they mellow enough not to require any gear?

check on cascadeclimbers.com

local forum

there are those that have "issues" with the route on there so be ready

I thought the route was a quality long day outting

it is NOT, repeat NOT a sport route.

Agree, it's definitely not a sport route so be ready for some runouts on easy terrain.

Bolts are all in. Depending on rain and water runoff, there may be wet sections.

edit to add: I took small cams (from mid C3 - .75) and was happy to have them especially when linking pitches. Be sure to plan your water and food needs appropriately and start early. The more you can simul the better. PM me if you have any specific questions.

If it's wet, it's usually at the top of the lower slabs (6-7 I think).

Simul as much as you can. 30 draws + helps a lot. REALLY small gear might help on the long "4 th class" around pitch 16. I've always found it simple on the way up and dicey on the way down. I usually tied off a bush or two for a running belay.

Take the time to look DOWN the route and spot landmarks to help you locate the anchors on the way back down. Even bringing some flagging tape to pick up on the way down can help.

Allow ~3 hours for the raps. More if you're not efficient.

Ok, so not a sport route. I dont mind some runouts on easy stuff, but how hard is it over the runout sections. What would you all say is the hardest move you had to do 15 feet or more past the last bolt, or in an area risking injury if you fell? I am trying to gauge how hard the runouts are. Some of the pitches say 5.8 with only two or so bolts. Well if its like 100 feet of 5.2 and 10 feet of 5.8 with two bolts protecting the 5.8, fine, but if its 5.8 50 feet past the last bolt, thats a different story.

Also to add, if anyone knows of any long sport climbs anywhere in the western USA or Canada I would love to hear about it, I am trying to climb the top five longest sport climbs in North America, and this route came up on the list. I have done Timewave Zero in Mexico and I know of the 22 pitcher in Utah and the 22 pitch one in Canmore. Any others?

mattm wrote:...it is NOT, repeat NOT a sport route.

p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts
p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts
p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts
p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts
p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts
p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts
p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk)
p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts
p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts
p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts
p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk)
p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts
p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts
p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts
p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts
p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts
p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts
p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts
p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts
p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts
p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts
p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts
p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts

...pretty funny assertion no matter how you look at it (and B-Y it ain't).

You will not need to make any hard moves while runout. If you have climbed many other alpine routes, it will feel like a sport climb. If you have only sport climbed, it might feel a bit more serious than you typical fare. Regardless, it is a pleasant climb.

Does anyone know if an updated version of the topo exists? I am assuming the one marked 9/22/2007 for download on CascadeClimbers.com is still the most recent?

I heard its really easy to get off route once you hit the 5.0 pitches, anyone have any recommendations, or better yet a topo/ picture as to how to navigate that area?

mattm wrote:REALLY small gear might help on the long "4 th class" around pitch 16. I've always found it simple on the way up and dicey on the way down. I usually tied off a bush or two for a running belay.

According to the topo it looks like there are two raps on P15. The 80' rap from P16 down to the end of the 4th class on P15, than a 20' diagonal rap from the end of the 4th class on P15 to the start of P15. The topo implies you rap every foot of the route and dont downclimb anything. Is this true or has it changed?

20 kN wrote:Does anyone know if an updated version of the topo exists? I am assuming the one marked 9/22/2007 for download on CascadeClimbers.com is still the most recent?

Yep - that's the most recent. The 'older' version gives a few more details on driving to the parking area.

20 kN wrote: I heard its really easy to get off route once you hit the 5.0 pitches, anyone have any recommendations, or better yet a topo/ picture as to how to navigate that area?

Google around and read some trip reports - I found some descriptions to be helpful in keeping the big picture in mind in terms of aiming for the bottom of the upper headwall. Afraid I don't have any links handy at the moment.

20 kN wrote: According to the topo it looks like there are two raps on P15. The 80' rap from P16 down to the end of the 4th class on P15, than a 20' diagonal rap from the end of the 4th class on P15 to the start of P15. The topo implies you rap every foot of the route and dont downclimb anything. Is this true or has it changed?

Make sure you mark or otherwise note landmarks so you can FIND the #16 anchor on the way back down. There are NO BOLTS between 17 and 16 to help you find it.

The 80' rap from the #16 anchors leaves you at a small bush/ flat spot on a the 4th class slope. There's no anchor at this bush, just a small dirt spot. From this bush to the #15 anchor it's AT LEAST 200'. It's 4th class but only if you go the way you came up.

On the way UP from 15 -> 16 you'll follow a natural "groove" that is very straight forward and easy. You won't think twice about it really. On the way down, the rock LOOKS different and you'll be drawn away from how you went up. That and the location just feels exposed. You can see the drainage another 1000' below and the 4th class just rolls off on the horizon. Everytime I've done IB it's been SIMPLE going up and a pucker fest for me going down this part. Something about down climbing loose and chossy stuff with nothing to stop you if you "go".

So, getting from 16 -> 15, it's DEFINITELY NOT a rap. You rap the 80' and then scramble diagonally down to the next anchor. You can't rap it as it's too far AND you'll send a shit ton of rock down the route if you were to pull ropes.

Both times, we stayed roped up and the person in front (downhill) would snake the rope around bushes etc to for a "running belay" that way we figured if the SHTF, we'd have some coverage.

I've always felt 2-3 bolts or pitons on this section would allow for a nice simul-down climb with some pro...

Going up IB is fun and a blast. If you're not great at descents, give yourself AT LEAST 4 hours to rap and route find. Bring some flagging tape to help mark belays if you want. It's a big help. I've done the raps in 2:45 but that was with my "A Game" partner when I was doing a lot in the mtns.

Here's a view looking down...

"Looking down on the scrambling slabs. The first dot on the right is the belay (#15) between the trees and bushes.
The traverse follows the obvious ramp for maybe a 250ft pitch between belays.
The middle dot is the pitch #16 anchor
The final dot is the belay (#17) where the bolt line picks back up."