Outside Magazine Article on Honnold....Risk?

Risk, and an appreciation of performance in the face of risk, lies at the very core of trad climbing, and is actually one of the defining distinctions between trad and sport. You cannot be a trad climber an not appreciate control in the face of danger.

Climbers, who have already decided it is ok to take risks that most of society can't grasp, and who often offer justifying arguments for what they have chosen to do, are on the shakiest of all possible grounds when it comes to claiming someone else is risking too much.

Many older climbers have had experiences that lead them to question whether it is possible to exert the total control of body and environment necessary to succeed at such an exacting pursuit. Others form attachments to the world that alter their tolerance for risk, and render unacceptable what was once thrilling. In both cases, the loss of the absolute certitude of youth is sometimes referred to as "wisdom."

It is certainly a change of perspective. Whether it is any more depends on the receiver of the message as much as the message itself.

Meanwhile, Honnold is gonna do what he's gonna do, and the rest of us can only watch with a mixture of admiration and trepidation, breathing a sigh of relief at each new triumph, and perhaps wishing that what has been accomplished will be enough and that the warrior, battle-tested and covered with glory though not yet old, will find that new exploits will not be necessary.

As someone who's afraid of falling on TR when climbing 5.6 even, I think what Alex and Ueli do is friggin' awesome! Very exiting to watch...like Evel Kenievel sort of. I hope he friggin' free-solo's The Nose some day...that would be incredible! How boring life would be if risk takers didn't take risks. I think it's genetic...and I don't share those same kind of genes!

Ed Wright wrote:The problem with most high end soloists is that they don't know when to quit--until it's too late.

I disagree. High end free soloing is not a death sentence. Although a few high profile climbers have died, most high end free soloists DON'T die. The person engaged in the activity at a very high grade are the ones most likely to survive. I would argue that it is way more dangerous for the intermediate climber to engage in moderate free soloing routes.

Lee Smith wrote: I disagree. High end free soloing is not a death sentence. Although a few high profile climbers have died, most high end free soloists DON'T die. The person engaged in the activity at a very high grade are the ones most likely to survive. I would argue that it is way more dangerous for the intermediate climber to engage in moderate free soloing routes.

Exactly.

I think some people need to familiarize themselves with the Availability Heuristic.

I absolutely support free soloists practicing their art at whatever level. To witness the absolute mastery (if only through the various media) Honnold, Bachar, Croft, Reardon, and others have displayed is mind blowing and inspiring. But if I were Honnold's brother, family member, or loved one...? Again, I totally support what the guy is doing, but, at the base of it, there's that thought of it's cool he's doing that but it's not for me or mine.... Ultimately, it's his choice to accept risk, not ours.

Lee Smith wrote: I disagree. High end free soloing is not a death sentence. Although a few high profile climbers have died, most high end free soloists DON'T die. The person engaged in the activity at a very high grade are the ones most likely to survive. I would argue that it is way more dangerous for the intermediate climber to engage in moderate free soloing routes.

I didn't say it's a death sentence, but the ones who survive seem to be the ones who rest on their laurels and quit doing it while those who keep on and on eventually make that one final mistake. I do agree that it's prolly more dangerous for the intermediate climber who solos.

Zeke wrote:I absolutely support free soloists practicing their art at whatever level. To witness the absolute mastery (if only through the various media) Honnold, Bachar, Croft, Reardon, and others have displayed is mind blowing and inspiring. But if I were Honnold's brother, family member, or loved one...? Again, I totally support what the guy is doing, but, at the base of it, there's that thought of it's cool he's doing that but it's not for me or mine.... Ultimately, it's his choice to accept risk, not ours.

Well said.

I think I am going to go to youtube and watch one of those Ueli Steck videos and get friggin' pumped!

Honnold is on the cover of this month's issue of National Geographic magazine. They have an article on the new level of climbing in Yosemite.

Would anybody's opinions change if they didn't know about it? What if he had never sought out publicity and sponsorship, would anybody care that he had mastered his mind and sport so much that he had the mental control necessary to free solo hard climbs?

I don't know.