'standard rack' question...

So I've been lurking MP for a while now and finally signed up because I wanted to post up for some advice. I'm trying to get into trad climbing so I have invested in my first rack over the last couple weeks and really I just want to know if I've covered everything. I climb pretty much exclusively in the New River Gorge area, so I'm trying mostly to gear up for single pitch stuff, but may look into a trip to Seneca sometime this year.

Anyway, here's what I have so far: BD C4's .5-4, with doubles in .75-2; TCU's 0-3; and one set of Abc nuts. My question is: are there any gaps I should be aware of in my gear? Anything else that is a must-have? Any more doubles that are essential? I've been climbing for several years but mostly top-rope and some sport and I really want to start leading trad, sticking to routes that are well below my grade. Thanks for any insight!

Edit to add: My main concern... is this enough for most routes that requires a "standard rack?"

looks like a pretty standard rack and should suffice for now. make sure you have enough slings to extend your placements.

it looks like you're set for protection but you might want to update some of your draws. if you've been primarily climbing sport you probably have lots of draws with a stiff dogbone. switch 3-6 of them over on to long flexible 24" runners that have been trippled into "trad draws." that way you have flexible runners for placements on wandering routes as well as them being extendable.

Yeah I found a deal on omega's trad draws so I picked up 6 of those, also picked up a cordelette and some extra lockers. I guess I would just hate to spend all this money (over $1000 in the last 2 weeks lol) and realize there was something I missed or was short on. That would be a bummer.

second on the trad draws especially depending on where you climb. Around here a lot of the easier climbs pro is pretty wandering. I usually have 6-10 60cm trad draws on every climb and usually 1-2 120cm.

spadout.com has this cool tool where you enter in all the gear you own and it will show you a graph of where you have a lot of coverage and where you don't have much. As a bit of a gear junkie, I think it's a lot of fun..
I believe you need to create an account to access it.

spadout.com/racksim.php?rcs…

If you're not short on cash,

Add a 00 TCU or equivalent, double up the .5, #3, and double up your TCUs. The orange tcu and .5 camalot have a lot of overlap, but the orange will get slightly smaller and not quite as big (and yes, I have had that make a difference in getting a placement and not). I'd also add a set of tiny nuts: brass and/or DMM peanuts. Would probably also add a pink and red tricam if I were climbing on southern sandstone often.

My idea of a std rack is basically doubles from tips to fist, a single 4" piece, set of nuts from tiny to 1", and 8-12 slings or draws (usually a mix of the two). It varies subtly with type of rock and area. Adjust as necessary at the base (the 4" piece typically stays on the ground).

I've been climbing for a few years on a similar rack. The only thing I'd add, like Will S said, is a few tricams. Pink is most useful, but I like black through red at least and maybe a 1.5 and 2 if you find you like them. I use mine on pretty much every climb!

I'd like to ask a slightly different question: what's a minimalist "standard rack" for someone short on cash?

I'm in pretty much the same position as Brett (climbing at Seneca more than NRG), but I haven't bought all the gear yet. I've got a set of nuts, a set of tricams (0.5-2), and C4s #1 and #2. My plan is to climb more with what I've got, probably taking a class or two from a guide, before buying more gear. From following other people, I think I can get up a few easy routes with my current gear, and a few more C4s will make it a reasonable rack for the ~5.7 range.

Thoughts?

The only gap I saw was that you said you bought "a cordalette." Will your second be bringing their own? If they don't then you're gonna need another. Hard to use your only cordalette when its down below with your belayer. Not the end of the world. I've forgotten to pass it off at the belay and my leader had to build an anchor using slings. That works too. As somebody trying to piece together a rack as well you sound loaded for bear man. Wish I was in your position.

Wehling wrote:I've been climbing for a few years on a similar rack. The only thing I'd add, like Will S said, is a few tricams. Pink is most useful, but I like black through red at least and maybe a 1.5 and 2 if you find you like them. I use mine on pretty much every climb!

not a bad idea but i would make sure you climb with someone else to has tricams first before you buy some. its kinda hit or miss. some people swear by them and others never touch em.

Wannabe wrote:The only gap I saw was that you said you bought "a cordalette." Will your second be bringing their own? If they don't then you're gonna need another. Hard to use your only cordalette when its down below with your belayer. Not the end of the world. I've forgotten to pass it off at the belay and my leader had to build an anchor using slings. That works too. As somebody trying to piece together a rack as well you sound loaded for bear man. Wish I was in your position.

+1

On that note, 2 nut tools. One for you on lead and a spare in case your partner forgets theirs. I hate leading without one.

You've got more than i started out with, and plenty to start getting some routes in. You'll figure out what you'd like to add or lose pretty quickly. Personally I wouldn't take the #4 or the second #2 unless i knew i'd need them, in my experience, standard stops around a #3.(i'd sub in a few other items, see below), but if you've got them on you, you're likely to find somewhere to put them. I also like having the .4 C4. Same size as the 2tcu, i seem to place both of them almost every route. I'm also one of those guys who swears by tricams, pink(.5) and red(1.0) first, and then if you decide you like them, get up to the 1.5 and maybe the 2.0. And as someone already said, if you're starting multipitch, a cordolete for your second to carry would be handy.

I would add on an ATC Guide or a Reverso to bring up your second.

-Glenn

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds to me like I've got a pretty good start gear-wise so I'll just take it from here and see if I find myself wishing I had any other pieces or doubles.

One more thought, before doubling up on nut, you might want to supplement your existing set with a set of offsets.

spadout.com/p/dmm-offset-nuts/

-Glenn

Offsets are particularly good idea for Seneca. In fact, the Gendarme has (or used to have as of summer 2010) a loaner set so you could try before you buy.

PTR wrote:Offsets are particularly good idea for Seneca. In fact, the Gendarme has (or used to have as of summer 2010) a loaner set so you could try before you buy.

Sweet! I'll have to check that out if I make it down to Seneca, thanks for the info!

Here's a photo of the rack we used to climb the Regular Route on Half Dome. Pretty standard stuff (less the aid specific gear of course).

Maybe double-up some of the smaller cams like the #0.5 (purple) and #0.4 C4 (grey) but other than that, I think you're good to go.

Being a NRG junkie I'd like to throw in my two cent.

Grab a set of DMM alloy offsets when you have the chance, it's absolutely amazing how many places I toss one that I wouldn't put a regular nut.

Don't sweat doubling up the tips sizes unless you're specifically out after finger cracks. Most of the skinny cracks and corners at the new can be protected with a good assortment of small gear as well as small to medium nuts.

You picked a good size to double up on, I use a lot of 1s and 2s when I'm there it seems like and I can usually get by without having doubles of fingers or fists without sacrificing any safety.

Do get a set of tricams, (pink, red, brown and blue). I don't leave the ground without them and they are definitely necessary to plenty of routes at the New.

You might consider grabbing one or two double length (48") runners. They can be nice when routes traverse out under or around roofs (4 Sheets to the Wind and Rapscallion Blues cross my mind).

Other than the tricams your "standard rack" will get you up 85% of all of the trad roues at the New.

The cordalette isn't really that necessary at the New, and there are only a handful of routes that are broken into two pitches. I've used cord for building anchors less than a dozen times in several years and never need my second to have one, at least not there.

What grade are you looking to climb on gear? Maybe I can make some suggestions for you?

Since I'm just starting out, I'm looking to stick in the 5.7-9 range, and at least for a while, sticking to routes that I have lapped many times over the years. Four Sheets will be on my list for sure, once I raise my comfort level a little bit, but that is one of my favorite routes in the New. Do you have any specific areas or routes you would recommend for a new leader?

Oh and about the cordelette... I found it on sale while placing a big order online so I thought, what the hell? Figured it might be a handy thing to have stuffed away in a corner of my pack, and definitely would get used if I climb at Seneca.