Colorado Thief caught in the act at Smith

Peter Stokes wrote: Since you somehow managed to read though this thread and then post to it, you're apparently as good at wasting time as anyone else on here... this is, after all, more or less CB radio for your computer- and, like CB radio, you're free to turn it off. But then.....

Sorry if my comment rubbed you the wrong way Peter. I wasn't trying to denigrate your investment in this thread. I, too, have become glued to the monitor anxiously awaiting the birth of some new epiphany. The only difference between you and me is I have dial-up, and must wait an extra couple of minutes for each page to load. Thankfully, the Xtranormal video, JasonH's post, and Hans Klopak's return have made the investment worthwhile. Oh, and how could I forget the donkey lube post, which inspired my visit to the thread.

Love to talk ad infinitum about this, but the Portland Rock Gym is hosting a dyno comp with a free acoustic Alanis Morissette show to follow.

Here's a gnarly little skate video for those who are all about "keeping it real". Enjoy!
youtube.com/watch?v=Ys7fkjt…

Cute vid — I'm assuming you posted it as a joke. It was basically the equivalent of watching five minutes of time-lapsed footage of climbers on the Third Flatiron (5.4) high-fiving each other. I love that the segment opens with a skull logo, too. They were indeed having "real" fun, though. Nothing wrong with that. Keep skatin' boyz.

Chris Kalous, I just reposted your list of rules over for the gumbs on rockclimbing dot knob. Brilliant.

Chris Kalous speaks the truth.

He should be given sole posting rights in all ethics threads. Think how much time and bat-shit-stupid posting would be saved.

greenhorn wrote: Sorry if my comment rubbed you the wrong way Peter. I wasn't trying to denigrate your investment in this thread. I, too, have become glued to the monitor anxiously awaiting the birth of some new epiphany.

No worries, mate... no real "investment" in this thread, and no offense taken. At this point I should probably admit that I spent a fair amount of time on CB radio, since I drove a truck on and off and toured over the years. Side note- I'll be looking for a place to climb inside around Portland next time I visit- how do you like the Portland rock gym?

Hipsters.

chris Kalous wrote:First of all, why haven't all the aid climbers disappeared into the tar pits by now like dinosaurs. This is what happens when you let them just roam free. Second: this sounds like a bunch of kids trying to hammer out the rules to kick the can or something. Only children want ethics to be black and white, no negotiation, what works here and now will work everywhere and always. The only rule is don't be an asshole. For example: This guy stealing draws: asshole. Aiding up any free route that is too hard for you just to take gear: asshole, no, I take that back, just sad and lonely Taking a skanky draw that is a few bolts up and obviously a bail-off: not an asshole. Pulling bolts, hangers, or chains off a route: asshole Pulling bolts and hangers off a piece of shite that the community has decided is a waste of space and an eye-sore: not an asshole Leaving draws up on yer proj regardless of the grade at a sport area: not and asshole Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole Leaving pre-placed gear up on a your new route that is in the middle of no-where while you work it: not an asshole Fixed mini-traxion ropes left on classic or popular routes: asshole Mini-traxion ropes left out of clear site on the Amazing Obscuro Dome: well, actually, you are still probably an asshole and need to find some friends. Leaving up fixed ropes for your personal photograper/videographer: professional asshole Leaving behind fixed ropes in an emergency or accident: not an asshole (but you oughta try and go get them) Pulling obviously (because you live there and have talked with anyone who would know and have been looking at them for 5 years) abandoned and rotten and dangerous draws off a route: not an asshole Threading a fixed anchor that has biners so you can take them or pulling all but one piece out of a fixed anchor: asshole (and idiot) Finding half somebody's rack strung out on a pitch after a rain storm and NOT making an effort to post a note or talk to the local shop, etc.: asshole Keeping said rack after a reasonable and satisfying attempt by you to find the defendant: not an asshole Lying to the face of said party about having gear or refusing to return it: greedy asshole in need of a beating Pulling an unknown bail anchor: not an asshole Pulling an unknown piece that somebody stuck: not an asshole Pulling a piece that a party above you left and NOT offering it back at the next common belay or back in camp: asshole Pulling a piece that belongs to somebody you know (even barely, even if you don't like him/her) and not offering it back at your convenience: asshole (this one will get a "yeah, but...", but, sorry, you are an asshole) Doing anything that in yer gut makes you feel like a dick: well? If in your next breathe you have to start some convoluted defense of your actions: hmmm? But, sometimes doing what you want may require you to be an asshole. New routing tactics, for example, often infringe on others in many ways. Accept it, minimize it, and if somebody confronts you don't launch into a tirade about how rad you are and what a gumby he is. Instead, apologize, explain why its necessary, and how you will do this or that to make it right. A decent person sprouts from the ashes of an asshole. Just do the right thing. You don't need an ethics manual rolled up in your back pocket to check. We have all crossed the asshole line, and gleefully pulled so and so's stuck gear while mumbling "gumby" under our breathe, but was that junky cam worth our fleeting ego trip? What makes you feel better is "hey, slim, I managed to get yer cam out of Vigorous Vaj up on the Gargantua, want it back?" He or she might say no anyway. And if fixed draws bum you out, so should bolts, and so don't go sport climbing (you are also gonna need a time machine). Eldo awaits- just try to ignore all the tat hanging off the fixed pins and slung horns and trees... Finally, the golden circle- be cool to those you meet out there, they just might be pulling traction on yer broken femur a few minutes later while you wail like, well, an asshole.

This should be a sticky to the Home page of the forums and/or add to where "rules" apply

So my friend Jamie Lynn Miller and I just read through this whole thread while drinking beer and laughed our asses off. There is so much funny shit here, some of it unintentional, that forum haters need to read this and get it and see that it's fucking awesome.

The video links? God damn it- we couldn't breathe when we saw Pinocchio in the Burbs! And that skate video? We stopped laughing at minute two, and started again at minute four. Kinda Monty Pythonish!

Hooray for forums and beer!

Oh, word to the wise, if yer gonna be a dick, use spell check because the spelling just opens up yer flank. Just sayin'. (BTW: yer and gonna and kinda don't count)

Just read the list on the other page. How about this:

Always end up with partners gear at the end of the day and make no effort to return the gear until you hand them the rack at a belay and they say 'hey this is mine' ?

Call your sponsors and get some new draws.

So much input and no one has asked the question that begs itself!:

"Did you get your gear back?!"

I know this probably already occurred to someone, but we really need a composer to step up to the plate with his/her voice sampling synthesizer and do a "Bed Intruder Song" version of this.

He's climbin' on yo project
Snatchin your biners up
Better hide your gear
Hide your draws
Hide your gear
hide your draws

One of you DJ's ought to have the equipment for that.

Lauren D. Hollingsworth wrote:So much input and no one has asked the question that begs itself!: "Did you get your gear back?!"

I forget which thread I read it in, but I'm pretty sure Ian made a comment in one of them that they did get their draws back. I could be wrong though.

chris Kalous wrote:First of all, why haven't all the aid climbers disappeared into the tar pits by now like dinosaurs. This is what happens when you let them just roam free. Second: this sounds like a bunch of kids trying to hammer out the rules to kick the can or something. Only children want ethics to be black and white, no negotiation, what works here and now will work everywhere and always. The only rule is don't be an asshole. For example: This guy stealing draws: asshole. Aiding up any free route that is too hard for you just to take gear: asshole, no, I take that back, just sad and lonely Taking a skanky draw that is a few bolts up and obviously a bail-off: not an asshole. Pulling bolts, hangers, or chains off a route: asshole Pulling bolts and hangers off a piece of shite that the community has decided is a waste of space and an eye-sore: not an asshole Leaving draws up on yer proj regardless of the grade at a sport area: not and asshole Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole Leaving pre-placed gear up on a your new route that is in the middle of no-where while you work it: not an asshole Fixed mini-traxion ropes left on classic or popular routes: asshole Mini-traxion ropes left out of clear site on the Amazing Obscuro Dome: well, actually, you are still probably an asshole and need to find some friends. Leaving up fixed ropes for your personal photograper/videographer: professional asshole Leaving behind fixed ropes in an emergency or accident: not an asshole (but you oughta try and go get them) Pulling obviously (because you live there and have talked with anyone who would know and have been looking at them for 5 years) abandoned and rotten and dangerous draws off a route: not an asshole Threading a fixed anchor that has biners so you can take them or pulling all but one piece out of a fixed anchor: asshole (and idiot) Finding half somebody's rack strung out on a pitch after a rain storm and NOT making an effort to post a note or talk to the local shop, etc.: asshole Keeping said rack after a reasonable and satisfying attempt by you to find the defendant: not an asshole Lying to the face of said party about having gear or refusing to return it: greedy asshole in need of a beating Pulling an unknown bail anchor: not an asshole Pulling an unknown piece that somebody stuck: not an asshole Pulling a piece that a party above you left and NOT offering it back at the next common belay or back in camp: asshole Pulling a piece that belongs to somebody you know (even barely, even if you don't like him/her) and not offering it back at your convenience: asshole (this one will get a "yeah, but...", but, sorry, you are an asshole) Doing anything that in yer gut makes you feel like a dick: well? If in your next breathe you have to start some convoluted defense of your actions: hmmm? But, sometimes doing what you want may require you to be an asshole. New routing tactics, for example, often infringe on others in many ways. Accept it, minimize it, and if somebody confronts you don't launch into a tirade about how rad you are and what a gumby he is. Instead, apologize, explain why its necessary, and how you will do this or that to make it right. A decent person sprouts from the ashes of an asshole. Just do the right thing. You don't need an ethics manual rolled up in your back pocket to check. We have all crossed the asshole line, and gleefully pulled so and so's stuck gear while mumbling "gumby" under our breathe, but was that junky cam worth our fleeting ego trip? What makes you feel better is "hey, slim, I managed to get yer cam out of Vigorous Vaj up on the Gargantua, want it back?" He or she might say no anyway. And if fixed draws bum you out, so should bolts, and so don't go sport climbing (you are also gonna need a time machine). Eldo awaits- just try to ignore all the tat hanging off the fixed pins and slung horns and trees... Finally, the golden circle- be cool to those you meet out there, they just might be pulling traction on yer broken femur a few minutes later while you wail like, well, an asshole.

End/Thread.

All of you other blowhards on this thread should pack up and stop beating the dead horse.

Remember when everyone just wanted to know what the asshole's name was?

any development on that?

AndrewHou wrote: What about fixed pins, like on Fat City Direct? I don't see anybody complaining about clipping knifeblades left in cruxy sections.

I'm am admittedly not a fan of fixed gear period, just my ethos, but........

Clipping the old pins and/or the wires that used protect the crux of Fat City Direct, thus protecting yourself as you climb this trad route at this trad crag, is not the same as leaving draws on every bolt of a sport climb overnight while you "work" it.

Marc H wrote: That being said, leaving fixed draws behind is only slightly less lame than stealing fixed draws. Slightly. --Marc

Agreed.

Bill C. wrote:Remember when everyone just wanted to know what the asshole's name was? any development on that?

Rapey McGee?