The Great American Road Trip ....West Coast Climber Style

Hi everyone,

I plan to take a month-long road trip from mid-Sept to mid-Oct this upcoming year. I'm starting from Bellingham, Washington and I want to hit all the major spots:Smith Rocks, Yosemite, Sierra Nevada, Joshua Tree, Red Rock, maybe Indian Creek if I have time...

How long is long enough in each area? What routes are a must? Is it better to start at Red Rock and work my west and north? Or the other way around?

Given my limited time, and limited skills (I can only manage 5.7 trad right now), I know I won't be able to hit everything. But, figured to supplement what I'm gathering from guidebooks...

Thanks...

Word. I plan on training a ton before the trip, so hopefully I can really bring my A-game by September....I'd really like to do more multi-pitch than cragging. I've had enough of that. =)

I would suggest starting north and working your way further south as the weather gets colder. Also Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks might be worthy of a day or two. If your travels bring you east check out Vedauwoo in Wyoming and Eldorado Canyon in Colorado. Both locations are amazing for trad.

I've thought about skipping Utah, too. I used to live in Utah, so I've seen a lot of that state, and I know I'll be back. Same with Smith. I talked to a co-worker and he said to head straight for Yosemite and the High Sierra so I don't catch it when it's too cold. which I think someone else recommended to me...Yeah, I wish I could take more time off, but I think that's all I can swing. =)

I second the Yosemite/High Sierra plan. As Nick S states it's a reasonable (~4 h) drive from the E Sierra to Red Rocks if the weather gets crappy. Maybe I'm stating the obvious, here but people use "Yosemite" to refer to Yosemite Valley even though Tuolumne Meadows is also in the park.

Some High Sierra (including Tuolumne Meadows) recommendations in up to 5.7:

• Matthes Crest S to N traverse (5.7)
• N Ridge to W Ridge link-up on Mt Conness (5.6)
• Venusian Blind on Temple Crag (5.7)
• N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5)
• Swiss Arete to Starlight traverse (5.6); the next peak over, Thunderbolt, has a 5.9 summitblock (basically a boulder problem)
• NE Ridge on Bear Creek Spire (class 4)

If you can swing 5.8 by next fall:

• Moon Goddess Arete on Temple Crag
• N Arete on Bear Creek Spire

Hit up Tuolumne as Fossana said, though I would definitely throw Cathedral Peak into the mix. A long approach (though beautiful and offering a potential swim after if time/temperature permit), but you can get a wilderness permit and spend the night pretty close to the start. Definitely my favorite moderate (~5.7) route; a fun chimney, nice cracks, some fun/protectable face climbing, and some seriously epic views. Just get an early start or there will be lines at the typical belay stations.

The Valley has a ton a great lines, but the moderate routes are pretty polished. I swear I saw my reflection on After Six's granite...

Also, Lover's Leap outside Tahoe has some great climbs. Depending on how quick you guys are, You could probably buzz through a few really classic lines in a short amount of time. Bear's Reach (5.7) is a ton of fun, and for some seriously gripping exposure Corrugation Corner (5.7, but the exposed arete section will seriously get your blood pumping on lead).

As for suggestions on way, you could hit Lover's Leap, take 88/89 to 395 to the back of 120 and into Tuolumne in a few hours, spend a few days there, finish 120 into Yos Valley, knock out a ton there, and then head out the front, and then head south to Jtree.

Hell, if you need an extra for any of the Western Sierras, I'm there every chance I get.

additional notes on Cathedral Peak:

By "long approach" we're talking ~1 hour, 1.5 maybe if you're feeling the elevation. Midweek is the best time to hit Cathedral. Once you're up there it's worth also doing the short scramble up Eichorn Pinnacle. IMHO, Matthes is a much more unique and rewarding climb, plus it far less crowded than Cathedral.

For Tuolumne and Yosemite, where a lot of the climbs have parking lots and turnouts at their base, Cathedral is definitely a relatively long approach. Like you said, altitude also plays a factor since the hike gains 2000 feet before the climb even begins (another ~600 feet or so of actual climbing), and leading after that kind of hike isn't super fun for a lot of people. Matthes is like double the distance.

Matthes is a lot of fun, though I woudnt say its nearly as rewarding as Cathedral. Great views, but the length with the 'long' approach is important. Depending on their fitness it might take upwards of 6 hours for approach and descent, and then another upwards of 3 to climb. I definitely camped for that one. Though there is no camping allowed at Budd Lake, it makes for a fun post climb dip.

The grade is also more sustained on Cathdral where Matthes has a lot more 4th. Cathedral most definitely will be packed, but the whole face climbable with many options to belay at if avoiding crowds. Both have spectacular views, but if you can get a photo taken of you on Eichorn's you'll have one of the most classic clmbing shots taken.
I would honestly try to do all. Hike to Cathedral, climb it, climb Eichorn's, descend, camp, wake, go to Matthes, climb it, and hike out.

Nice. Thanks for the beta. Would love to do Cathedral Peak. I have that as my desktop background actually. Looks incredible...long approach, no problem. 1.5 seems like cake compared to some of these Cascade routes.... One things that is MUST for me is Whitney. BUT....
Seems like there is a LOT to do in California. I'm sure much of my plan will be weather dependent (and if I even get a lottery ticket for Whitney). The hardest part is finding a solid partner who has my same goals. On one hand, it would be nice to have the same person for the whole trip. But, maybe that's a guaranteed way to drive two people mad. Any opinions about partner consistency? How easy is it to find a legit partner in Yosemite/Lover's Leap/Tuolumne?

In the realm of High Sierra climbing 1.5 hours is not even remotely close to a "long approach". Most people day-trip Cathedral.

You can sometimes pick up Whitney permit cancellations. I didn't find the E Buttress all that exciting in comparison to the other classic High Sierra routes.

Good Stuff man! I just got back from a month long road trip myself. From the east coast to the west coast. We spent more time in some areas than others. Our travel days were our rest days. Month is plenty of time. I would start from the north and work your way down...I think you`ll be more likely to hit all of your destinations that way. We did it on the cheap...we bought all our food before hand at Costco, slept in rest stops and walmart parking lots. Starbucks bathrooms were by far the best on the road. and if you are traveling with a buddy 2 sets of car keys would come in handy. Nothing sucks more than waiting for the guy with the keys when the car is locked. We had a guide book for each area but we also printed pages from MP. mainly specific routes we wanted to do and the main page of the area...a lot of the climbers comments on places to stay, eat, and directions came in handy.

Being a 5.7 climber......and if i only had a Month.....i would go to Yosemite and the High Sierra. There is so much moderate climbing in the Sierra that you could easily spend a lifetime and it is usually easy to find a partner in Camp4...if the weather sucks there are many other options close by......but i understand the roadtrip aspect..but if pitch count is what your after it will be hard to bet the Sierra...check out Tahoe too...Lovers leap is AMAZING as well as the rest of the Tahoe Area.