What is the most classic moderate trad route in california?

alpine affinity wrote:The T-bolt to Sill Traverse was AMAZING.

But is this really moderate? What route did you take between starlight and north pal? We were soloing and it felt more wild than moderate but then again, we were kinda hiiiigh up on that ridge ;-)

and chock one more up for charlotte dome. easy, fun, fantastic position, unbelievable views, and you get to stare at it for several approaching hours.

alpine affinity wrote:Corrugation Corner really is THAT good. I really thought that Haystack was a memorable route as well. Bear's Reach was garbage-Lover's Leap. West Ridge of Conness is an absolute must-do, along with Cathedral/Eichorn for Tuolumne. +1 for Royal Arches and Bishop's Terrace in the Valley I hear all the moderate routes on Temple Crag are excellent. The T-bolt to Sill Traverse was AMAZING.

Hey there alpine affinity - did you use the rap stations on u-ntoch or downclimb to continue the traverse? i'm coming out on vacationf rom work (i work on an oil rig) and would rather not blow it. would love a winter traverse, used to live in california but had to move for work.

"I'd say East Butt of Cathedral at 5.8/5.9ish A0 (if you decide to French Free the bolt ladder)."

Even if it's a "troll" thread it's got very tempered remarks that I mostly agree with. I think I've done every route listed and only have one major gripe on the above quote.

On the EBMC, the right variation (one 10a short section) is FAR better than the bolt ladder that takes you into a wide not-so-nice corner system. I think the right variation is one of the nicest long climbs in the Valley/World. Ecellent. Make EB of El Cap look like garbage, even though that route is pretty good (with a couple of amazing pitches and an El Cap summit).

I don't have much to add. Fishhook on Russell. 3rd Pillar of Dana has some good stuff. I've always thought Cathedral was a perfect rock climb and summit. Braille Book, Arrowhead Arete, The Vision are cool for off-the-beaten track fun. And adding Crest Jewell to the Arches is a great day of moderate climbing (may have a couple of easy 10 moves and some massive runouts on easy terrain). In the Needles Fancy Free to Spooky is a great natural link-up and Airy Interlude's one pitch is worth the hype. I thought WPOD was great but I do understand how if you've never been to the Needles proper you'd feel as though you've missed out. Also, it's been 20 years but WPOD used to be serious if you were at your limit. Were bolts added to the slab pitch? At Tahquitz, try El Camino Real's crux corner, then traverse straight right under the big roof to Traitor Horn. This is a mega star link-up.

Hmmm, there must be more. I know for sure that there are new amazing routes of moderate grades in the western Sierra at places like Shuteye and Calaveras Dome.

craiger wrote:royal arches, fairview dome, snake dike, taquhitz, the astro domes jt

how about the nutcracker!!!

steve edwards wrote:"I'd say East Butt of Cathedral at 5.8/5.9ish A0 (if you decide to French Free the bolt ladder)." Even if it's a "troll" thread it's got very tempered remarks that I mostly agree with. I think I've done every route listed and only have one major gripe on the above quote. On the EBMC, the right variation (one 10a short section) is FAR better than the bolt ladder that takes you into a wide not-so-nice corner system. I think the right variation is one of the nicest long climbs in the Valley/World. Ecellent. Make EB of El Cap look like garbage, even though that route is pretty good (with a couple of amazing pitches and an El Cap summit). I don't have much to add. Fishhook on Russell. 3rd Pillar of Dana has some good stuff. I've always thought Cathedral was a perfect rock climb and summit. Braille Book, Arrowhead Arete, The Vision are cool for off-the-beaten track fun. And adding Crest Jewell to the Arches is a great day of moderate climbing (may have a couple of easy 10 moves and some massive runouts on easy terrain). In the Needles Fancy Free to Spooky is a great natural link-up and Airy Interlude's one pitch is worth the hype. I thought WPOD was great but I do understand how if you've never been to the Needles proper you'd feel as though you've missed out. Also, it's been 20 years but WPOD used to be serious if you were at your limit. Were bolts added to the slab pitch? At Tahquitz, try El Camino Real's crux corner, then traverse straight right under the big roof to Traitor Horn. This is a mega star link-up. Hmmm, there must be more. I know for sure that there are new amazing routes of moderate grades in the western Sierra at places like Shuteye and Calaveras Dome.

Actually on East Butt of Middle, you can do the bolt ladder, throw the V that sits above it to the belay. After the traverse you can then traverse right to the nice systems.

Also forgot Gemini Cracks (an amazing 5.9 system) on Hammer Dome in the Calavaras region.

And also Clyde Miniret.