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City of rocks route

Original Post
Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

many years ago when I was in city of rocks I climbed a routes that was 5.9 ish and mostly protected by slinging chicken heads.

I will be returning to COR later in the month and was wondering if someone could enlighten me on the possible name and location of this route? thanks

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Sadly, I'd be surprised if some jackass hasn't added a line of bolts to your fine route. Seems to be the way things are going these days. Good luck.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

Oh god I hope not, the chicken heads where plenty bomber, no bolts needed.

Larry · · SoAZ · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 50

My route on Elephant Rock Sinsemilla is only 5.8ish, but I don't think it's been retrobolted...whereas Face Shot (also 5.8) has been retrobolted without permission.

Grant Gerhard · · Verdi, NV · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 135

Could you be thinking of Cowboy Route on Bath rock? It's only 5.5, I think, but has an abundance of slingable chicken heads

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 798

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/idaho/city_of_rocks/the_breadloaves/105741101

This one?

Doug Foust · · Oroville, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

Dykes of Gastonia on Striped rock is a 3 pitch 5.7, both belays around slung horns and most of the protection is the same. There are two bolts on a slabby section down low but you are happy to have these.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Doug Foust wrote:Dykes of Gastonia on Striped rock is a 3 pitch 5.7, both belays around slung horns and most of the protection is the same. There are two bolts on a slabby section down low but you are happy to have these.

Dikes of Gastonia. Yes I do believe that was the one. After a quick google search and looking at the description that really does look like the one I was looking for.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 798

So it is any good? Always wondered about that route.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
zoso wrote:So it is any good? Always wondered about that route.

Its been 6 years or so but It really sticks in my mind as a really good and unique route. If I remember right I think I used 90% of my pro as slings around horns, I don't recall placing a lot of hard gear.

Doug Foust · · Oroville, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

It's a great old school route. The first pitch is slabby and grainy with limited protection(2 bolts and one flake for gear). It gets a bit sketch right before the first belay which is a giant horn. Keep your shoes clean!!!!!

The rest of the route is pretty mellow climbing and we placed no gear, just slung horns.

Definately a different and IMO very fun route.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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