City of rocks route
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many years ago when I was in city of rocks I climbed a routes that was 5.9 ish and mostly protected by slinging chicken heads. |
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Sadly, I'd be surprised if some jackass hasn't added a line of bolts to your fine route. Seems to be the way things are going these days. Good luck. |
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Oh god I hope not, the chicken heads where plenty bomber, no bolts needed. |
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My route on Elephant Rock Sinsemilla is only 5.8ish, but I don't think it's been retrobolted...whereas Face Shot (also 5.8) has been retrobolted without permission. |
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Could you be thinking of Cowboy Route on Bath rock? It's only 5.5, I think, but has an abundance of slingable chicken heads |
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http://www.mountainproject.com/v/idaho/city_of_rocks/the_breadloaves/105741101 |
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Dykes of Gastonia on Striped rock is a 3 pitch 5.7, both belays around slung horns and most of the protection is the same. There are two bolts on a slabby section down low but you are happy to have these. |
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Doug Foust wrote:Dykes of Gastonia on Striped rock is a 3 pitch 5.7, both belays around slung horns and most of the protection is the same. There are two bolts on a slabby section down low but you are happy to have these. Dikes of Gastonia. Yes I do believe that was the one. After a quick google search and looking at the description that really does look like the one I was looking for. |
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So it is any good? Always wondered about that route. |
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zoso wrote:So it is any good? Always wondered about that route. Its been 6 years or so but It really sticks in my mind as a really good and unique route. If I remember right I think I used 90% of my pro as slings around horns, I don't recall placing a lot of hard gear. |
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It's a great old school route. The first pitch is slabby and grainy with limited protection(2 bolts and one flake for gear). It gets a bit sketch right before the first belay which is a giant horn. Keep your shoes clean!!!!! |




