Toprope Soloing without a mechanical ascender

Just curious if anyone knows of any toprope solo systems that don't involve a mechanical ascender (mini trax, ushba, grigri, etc.)? I've heard of running a prusik up with you, which seems pretty gnarly, but could you drop a rope with butterfly knots every couple of feet and just clip as you go? I know it's not going to be as bombproof or backed up as other systems, I'm just curious if people do it.

I used to tie a bunch of bights and clip as I went; but the ushba or the gri-mod works better for me.

You could use some butterflys or a moving clove hitch (a couple at a time) but an ascender works much better. I got one (petzl basic) for $14 here on MP last year.

I used to use a garda hitch backed up with knots. It worked alright, better than a friction knot in my opinion.

I upgraded to a Petzl Basic ascender, much better.

I would have just climbed with a rope within arms reach in case I fell, but all of the above sound better. I was just wondering if there were viable/safe alternatives to ascenders. I'm not too keen on the prospect of shelling out 60-80 bucks for an ascender that I'd only be using when I had no other good climbing options.

Look for a used ascender or got a grigri/cinch? If it's only occasionally then knots will be fine, but they'll annoy you pretty fast.

I used a Reverso on autoblock and a chest harness all summer while in Rumney. Did this with both rope-solo leads and top ropes. Never had an issue. When top roping I clipped knots tied on the other half of the rope.

This is the website where I learned the set-up.
mountainz.co.nz/content/art…;direct=general

It does take a little bit to figure out, but once you do it seems to work pretty well. I took minor falls and felt secure. However I only used this when I didnt have a partner and climbed well under my ability.

JFK wrote:I would have just climbed with a rope within arms reach in case I fell, but all of the above sound better. I was just wondering if there were viable/safe alternatives to ascenders. I'm not too keen on the prospect of shelling out 60-80 bucks for an ascender that I'd only be using when I had no other good climbing options.

There is a next to zero chance of you being able to grab a free hanging rope in the case of an unexpected fall. Might as well be free soloing.

If a friction hitch is your only option, you're probably better off with a Bachmann over a Prussik.

Using an ATC Guide or Reverso is also a viable option, as has been pointed out. I have a spare Reverso I'll sell you for $15 + $2 shipping if you want. Make sure you use a chest harness with this method - it can't hold an upside down fall and you will die. Backup knots on a second line are also advisable.

"I would have just climbed with a rope within arms reach in case I fell, but all of the above sound better."

You saw that one video, right?

splitclimber wrote:"I would have just climbed with a rope within arms reach in case I fell, but all of the above sound better." You saw that one video, right?

Yeah, He inspired me to solo (second instance of sarcasm).