Climbing Accident up AF Canyon. 8/10/10

Got a call at work today about an accident up AF. Apparently a climber fell 60 feet. Life flight was dispatched but they never landed. that's all the information we were given. Anyone know what happened?

bump

Not any more info here, but hopefully they'll update the story.

The climber who fell was James Garrett. He was climbing with Christian Burrell.

Best to them both.

looks like there is a lot more info on that website now.

Ohh James!!! Sorry to hear it! Glad you had your helmet on! Please heal quickly! We're all behind you!

I talked to Christian an hour ago as he was on his way to the hospital to see James. If I understood right, they were bolting a new route on lead when rockfall hit James? Or Christian might think James knocked the rocks off. Still unsure.

Both of those guys have decades of experience. It just shows that no one is immune, eh?

I just got back from the hospital. I was unable to see or speak with James, but I did speak with his wife and she gave me an update. Out of respect to James and his wife, I will not disclose any specific details, but I will let you all know that James is alive, conscience and speaking with his doctors and family. I hope you will add him to your prayers and thoughts.

I have tried to put the pieces of how this happened together over and over today. For everyone's opportunity to learn and maybe get some calmness in my head I will describe what happened as far as I can figure:

We were bolting a new line in American Fork canyon. The line was a long slab that we hoped would turn into a great, easy multi-pitch line. The first pitch was a fairly easy slab (maybe 5.7 or so at the top) which led to a long scree slope with about a 30 degree angle. The belay was drilled beneath a slight bulge for some shelter from rocks.

James moved to the left a few feet to start pitch 2. This pitch at least looked much easier than pitch one. Mostly a steep staircase like wall. He had reached the top fairly quickly and moved out of sight onto what I assume was another scree slope, although I really have no clue as I never saw it.

About a minute or so after he disappeared, a large amount of rocks began to rain down. Some of these rocks were about human head size. Whether James himself dislodged them or it was a natural rock fall, I do not know. I ducked beneath the bulge to avoid the rocks. Other than falling rocks, I did not hear anything. I next saw James helmet falling from above. James had been wearing the helmet while he was climbing. The helmet looked like a shotgun had blasted it out! I have no idea how it came off his head.

I then leaned back and looked up and I thought I saw a foot in the air. I reacted instinctively and pulled in as much slack as I could. When it was obvious that James had fallen and that the fall had been arrested, I leaned back as far as I could and realized that James had indeed been hurt. I called up to him and did not get a response. I unclipped from the anchor bolts and while keeping him on belay moved to the side and down the slope until I could see him clearly. It was obvious that he had sustained some bad injuries and knowing that his helmet had somehow been knocked off his head I assumed he had a concussion at least. He was able to respond after I yelled at him. All this occurred in a very short amount of time maybe 20-30 seconds total.

I have made a habit of always throwing a headlamp, small first aid kit, and my cell phone into my pack. Now I was glad I had this habit. I considered lowering him to me, but decided to call 911 first. James had basically come to rest on a ramp feature, so that he was able to lay down while I kept him on tight. The 911 dispatch told me to keep him exactly where he was and just keep talking loudly to him. I described what injuries I could see, be he just seemed more dazed than anything.
It took the search and rescue about 40 minutes to an hour to find us. A single rescuer showed up finally and ran up the ramp to James and cradled his head while assessing his vitals. Other rescue personnel arrived and got everything worked out. They used James drill to add a second bolt above him and rigged a stretcher to lower him. We then carried him out to a narrow precipice of rock where Life Flight wanted him. They winched him up (but not before the helicopter swung them into a nice big pine tree). This rescue took somewhere around a hour or so after they arrived.

I found James helmet on a ledge below us and we all were stunned when we saw it. Totally crunched! Had he not been wearing one...I shudder. I discussed with the search and rescue how the accident occurred. Honestly, it is very difficult for me to say anything definitive. We wonder if a rock hit James and knocked him out causing the fall or if he slipped and hit his head on the way down. I'm not sure if there is a way to know for sure.
He was about 30 feet below the bolt when the fall was arrested. Knowing how far he could have been above the last bolt, I am not sure if I could've stopped his fall any sooner, even if I had been able to clearly see him the whole way. For whatever reason, James did not or was not able to communicate to me any warnings about the falling rocks or his falling. This fact is another reason we wonder if he had been hit by a rock from above causing the fall. It seems very difficult to believe that someone with his experience would not call out at all.

No matter what caused the fall, I can't stop beating myself up about it. I am not sure what I could've done different that may of lessened or avoided the accident. I hope that we all can learn something from this story and if nothing else: wear a helmet!

Again, please keep your thoughts and prayers with James as he continues his medical process.

"I will not disclose any specific details,"

OK, do you mind telling us some vague details?

So sorry about the accident, our prayers are with you James.

Man I hate reading this. Thoughts and much good energy going out to you James.

I meant details about his injuries and medical treatment plans.

our thoughts are with ya James. When we said no star Tuesday, we didn't necessarily mean that far off the beaten path.

To a full and quick recovery. Please let us know if you need anything at all.

Christian thanks for the post. All the best to James in a speedy recovery!!!

Best wishes to James.

So sorry to hear that James. Sending light~
Don't beat yourself up Christian; you helped save him.

Best wishes to James, his family, and Christian. Christian, you did a great job in my opinion.

Way to be a badass partner and get your leader help Christian. I'm sure he appreciates all you did.

All the best to Jimmy G.

Please let us know how he's doing, and, if there is ANY thing he needs.

-Brian in SLC

Best wishes to James and Christian for a speedy recovery.
Christian, you did the best any partner could do in that situation, don't beat yourself up.

If James is at IMC I know there is a climber there who will help in any way that she can if needed.

Very sorry to read this. Best wishes to James and Franziska. Hoping for good news here.