First Multi-Pitch in Denver area.

My girlfriend and I will be in CO next week for a wedding, and will have some free time on Wed. and Thursday (7/14-7/15), and I will have free time on Friday I think.

We are staying in Centennial and want to stay hopefully within an hour drive of Denver. She doesn't have a lot of climbing experience (climbing about 5.9), and I have no trad experience, and I'm still getting back in shape (5.10 a/b right now).

So we need some sport climbing, and I would really really like to do my first multi-pitch, so it would have to be an easier one so she can belay and 2nd. The other thing we would like is to get on some really nice quality rock, we live in Iowa so nice rock is hard to come by.

Any suggestions?

In Clear Creek Canyon is a fun moderate 4 pitch sport route with good rock and good exposure.

Other than that I can't think of many other moderate multi-pitch routes that don't involve some trad. Feel free to contact me through mp if you need some more info.
-cheers

Common Monty.....would you take your girl up a relatively new route in Clear Creek as her and your first multi-pitch climbing experience?

JL, the challenge with your request is that most of the moderate multipitch classics on the front range were done before people really started bolting moderate lines. Also I think it might be wise to consider if you really want to go get scared and possibly freak out your girl at the same time. In my experience it is much better to get scared with someone who is not freaking out too.

If you are determined there are a couple two pitch lines at the Cat Slab in Cleak Creek, but they are not what I would call classics. They are safely bolted and are not overly exposed, just get there in the morning as they will bake in the sun.

Not to question your abilities, but do you really want to do your first multi-pitch with your new to climbing GF? Hanging belays add a couple degrees of difficulty to basic ropecraft.

You should take her up the first two pitches of "People's Choice" at Highwire which has been well cleaned over the years and then give her the option of doing the third pitch, which is stellar.

Stich wrote:You should take her up the first two pitches of "People's Choice" at Highwire which has been well cleaned over the years and then give her the option of doing the third pitch, which is stellar.

If done "by the book", I think this is too hard. Remember, he tops out at 5.10 a/b, and she at 5.9. And there are some really technical mid-to-hard-5.10 slab moves on both the first and last pitch. He'd likely be falling all over it on lead, and hauling her up on second.

But a creative linkup would avoiding the hard stuff on P1, and could be an excellent choice. Here's how I'd recommend it be done:

For the first pitch, do Nickels and Dimes (which for new climbers will require some thought, but is totally doable) and then take a hard left near the top to get to the Peoples Choice anchors (5.8). Then P2 of People's Choice goes at 5.7, is slabby enough to make the fear-factor of doing your first multi-pitch just interesting enough. That gets you high enough to feel the breeze, look down on the birds, look at the river, feel like you've accomplished something, etc. And if you choose to go down at that point, you can get off with a single rap with a 60m, or do two raps if you want to experience that for practice.

But once you get to that second belay, you can decide on whether that's enough multi-pitch for the day (in which case you rap), or if both members of the party are loving it, and want to step it up a notch, there's the final 5.10 pitch, with super-fun but easy moves up the overhanging dihedral to some harder slab moves at the top.

That would be my suggestion.

GO

young and the rackless in boulder canyon. Super well protected easy 5.9. 4 short pitches. Seems like a perfect intro to multipitch sport.

Jason Killgore wrote:young and the rackless in boulder canyon. Super well protected easy 5.9. 4 short pitches. Seems like a perfect intro to multipitch sport.

i would agree. good thinkin.

WiledHorse wrote: i would agree. good thinkin.

Also a very good choice. And yes, "Nickels and Dimes" for P1. It's so obviously close, that's what I used to think was P1 for years anyway.

Y&R is a good choice that i wouldn't have thought of. i thought monty's choice was good too. all in all though, i think the OP is bordering on lunacy with his idea.

Since it's your first multi-pitch make sure to think through everything you will need to do before hand. If you're competent and confident in what you do that will help ease any fears your girlfriend may have. If you're fumbling with everything and figuring it out as you go the odds of a freakout will increase.

These are a few questions you should think about before you leave the ground:

What type of anchor are you going to build (several types will work)?

How are you and the GF going to attach yourselves to the anchor?

How will you belay her up (redirected belay, belay directly off anchor, etc)?

How will you flake the rope at a hanging belay(over your rope, over your foot . . .)?

How will you set up your rappel (assuming it's not a walkoff) at the hanging belay to get down?

As long as you think through everything ahead of time you should be fine. If any of this confuses you then it may be best to recruit someone with experience to tag along, but if you feel confident in both of your abilities then go for it, and most of all have fun!

Cheers,
Cory

Kevin Stricker wrote:Common Monty.....would you take your girl up a relatively new route in Clear Creek as her and your first multi-pitch climbing experience?.

I wouldn't of reccomended if it wasn't clean as a whistle ;)
I bolted that variation to be an excellent first multipitch, but I'm biassed and have not done much in bc.
-cheers

young and the rackless is my vote as well. There is not a single move on that climb where the leader can really take an actual leader fall, and on each pitch(except maybe the last) the belayer and leader can verbally communicate. At every point where you are about to make a more difficult move there is a bolt within arms reach above your head so its great in terms of safety.

When you rap off, the second rap station a decent ways climbers right of the route, and at the end of the second rap you get a nice freehanging rap for a good height which adds to the fun.

Great climb in all respects.

When I took a girlfriend on her first multi-pitch, one thing that surprised both of us was how scared she got on the ledges while I was above and out of sight. It really freaked her out, understandably so. So you might want to give her a heads up, something along the lines of "You'll be attached to the cliff, but you might not always see me. How do you feel about that...?"

To really ease you both into it, you might consider hiring a guide. This would open up your choice of climbs considerably, and she would never have to be alone at a belay stance.

Kevin Stricker wrote: Also I think it might be wise to consider if you really want to go get scared and possibly freak out your girl at the same time. In my experience it is much better to get scared with someone who is not freaking out too.

Pretty much says it all

Monty put up a great route in Playin Hooky. One thought, if you have access to a couple of radios, you could combine the first two pitches (if you have enough gear) of that route and bring your gf up from there. She will lose site of you but could have the security of the radio. From there all of the belays are on large comfortable ledges. The ledges are large enough where you won't have to worry about meticulous rope work and you can lead all pitches and your gf will only have to follow and enjoy

Tell you what, I've never done playing hooky or young and the rackless. I will climb either one (or both) with you guys. If you're competent you can lead all the pitches if you'd like, otherwise I will lead if your gf is freaking out so you can keep her company at the belays. And if you'd rather climb something easier there are plenty of classic trad climbs (first flatiron) that we could do as well and I'll lead them.

If you're serious about this, going with a 3rd party who is an experienced multipitch climber will help everything go smoothly. I'm pretty sure I have an after work commitment on Wednesday so I'm free Wednesday morning to mid afternoon and Thursday. Multipitch climbs take extra time when you're teaching people what to do so make sure you can block out a good bit of time.

Why would I do this? Well I'm a nice guy and moderate multipitch is fun. Plus I don't mind teaching new people the ropes to repay the favor since plenty of people were kind to me and showed me what was up when I knew jack squat. PM me if you're interested.

Chris Plesko wrote:Tell you what, I've never done playing hooky or young and the rackless. I will climb either one (or both) with you guys. If you're competent you can lead all the pitches if you'd like, otherwise I will lead if your gf is freaking out so you can keep her company at the belays. And if you'd rather climb something easier there are plenty of classic trad climbs (first flatiron) that we could do as well and I'll lead them. If you're serious about this, going with a 3rd party who is an experienced multipitch climber will help everything go smoothly. I'm pretty sure I have an after work commitment on Wednesday so I'm free Wednesday morning to mid afternoon and Thursday. Multipitch climbs take extra time when you're teaching people what to do so make sure you can block out a good bit of time. Why would I do this? Well I'm a nice guy and moderate multipitch is fun. Plus I don't mind teaching new people the ropes to repay the favor since plenty of people were kind to me and showed me what was up when I knew jack squat. PM me if you're interested.

that is awesome chris.. best idea yet!

and its not like you can't retreat at any point on the route. if you get up 1 pitch and freak out you can just rap back down. Its a cool setting where you probably wont be mobbed by a bunch of people on a weekday. finding the climb is a bit more complicated than people's choice, and the ticks in the area can be a nuisance, but I'd say go for it.

Wow guys, thanks for all of the input, I really appreciate it!

I'm definitely going to take Chris up on his offer and contact him.

I don't feel like she would freak out, she's pretty calm and actually a decent lead belayer (she insisted on taking classes and getting experience with help of others backing her up). And she's super safe.

I definitely think it would be great to have someone there though that is experienced.

Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive guide service, just in case Chris is not available. I just would like to have a back up in case to be safe. For either of the areas previously mentioned in this thread. Thanks for all of the help, it is greatly appreciated!

Mike Lane wrote:Not to question your abilities, but do you really want to do your first multi-pitch with your new to climbing GF? Hanging belays add a couple degrees of difficulty to basic ropecraft.

I agree