Camping in American Fork Canyon?

I'm looking to do some climbing this weekend up American Fork canyon. Are there any free camping areas near climbing up American Fork canyon? Preferably the climbing would range from 5.7 - 5.10 (we have a range of experience in the group going). Any ideas?

The hard rock area is one of the few places with moderate climbing in American fork. But there is a good selection of climbs in the moderate grades. Also there is some free camping the whole way at the top of the canyon, along side the road. There is a fee to get into AF though, I think it's like 5 dollars or something per car.

I would agree with the Hard Rock, it is VERY popular for the reason you want to go there/variety, I would highly recommend a helmet at all times along that cliff, especially the escape buttress, there's also a lot of good "newer" stuff across from the Membrane, that canyon/area slips my mind right now

The dirt road that skirts around the north side of timp has free camping that aint too bad. You access it from Timponookee (sp?) cg.

Dave Rackham wrote:Are there any free camping areas near climbing up American Fork canyon? Preferably the climbing would range from 5.7 - 5.10 (we have a range of experience in the group going). Any ideas?

To directly answer your question: no.

Free camping at/near Tibble Fork. To my knowledge, there isn't any free camping near the climbing in AF.

Worth it to maybe pay for camping to be closer to the climbing if that's your priority.

Too snowy right now to go up high towards free camping near free climbing (ha ha).

Good luck.

Kia Marie wrote:tank canyon is wilderness. camping is free in the wilderness. no fires, though. FORTUNATELY since tank canyon is WILDERNESS and bolting is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN in the wilderness there are NO BOLTS IN TANK CANYON. .....right, guys?

Huh?

Bolts are allowed in wilderness, at least in Utah.

Tank Canyon is part of the Lone Peak wilderness area. See the USFS Uinta-Wasatch-Cache website for specific restrictions (fires are allowed, group size, number of days at each site, etc).

I wouldn't think someone asking about presumably free car camping need be concerned with Tank Canyon as there aren't any roads to drive into up there.

Right?

Probably just no power drills in wilderness areas?

Are all wilderness areas equal? I'm very curious, actually.

Peter Springs wrote:Probably just no power drills in wilderness areas? Are all wilderness areas equal? I'm very curious, actually.

Correct, no power drills.

Most have very similar regulations. The BIG exceptions that I can think off are the Sawtooths and Red Rocks.

Kia Marie wrote: No bolts in the wilderness. I work for Pleasant Grove Ranger District- Lone Peak Wilderness takes up most of the district. I'm extremely sure that there are no bolts allowed in the wilderness.

Well, I've read the literature and don't see it. If you could reference where in any management plan, forest plan, etc, I'd appreciate it.

Kia Marie wrote:And i figured tank canyon was relevant because it's the only place with free camping and climbing. Car camping was never specified.

It's not the only place to camp for free. Posted the rules for where to NOT camp below.

There's plenty of crags one "could" camp at which would meet the rules posted below. Its just not done all that often. No need when car camping is available.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

SPECIAL ORDER: Pursuant to 36 CFR 261.50 (a) and (b), the following acts are prohibited within the boundaries of the Mt. Olympus, Twin Peaks, Lone Peak, and Deseret Peak Wildernesses on the Wasatch-Cache National Forest until further notice. The purpose of this order is to protect natural resources and enhance the visitor's wilderness experience.
1. Group sizes exceeding 10 persons. [36 CFR 261.58 (f)]
2. Camping within 200 feet of trails, lakes, ponds, streams, springs, and other water sources. [36 CFR 261.58 (e)]
3. Camping within 100 feet of another campsite. [36 CFR 261.58 (e)]
4. Camping for a period for more than 3 days at an individual site. [36 CFR 261.58 (a)]
5. Short cutting a trail switchback. [36 CFR 261.55 (e)]
6. Disposing of debris, garbage, or other waste. [36 CFR 261.57 (g)]
7. Bedding, tethering, hobbling, or hitching a horse or other saddle pack or draft animal within 200 feet of lakes, springs, or streams in the Mt. Olympus and Deseret Peak Wildernesses. [36 CFR 261.58 (aa)]
8. Campfires within Mill B South Fork Drainage in the Twin Peaks Wilderness and Red Pine Fork and Maybird Gulch drainages within Lone Peak Wilderness. [36 CFR 261.52 (a)]
9. Possessing or using a motor vehicle, motorboat, or motorized equipment except as authorized by Federal law or regulation (including bicycles, hang gliders, and landing of aircraft or dropping or picking up of any material). [36 CFR 261.16 (a) (b) (c)]

Brian in SLC wrote: Correct, no power drills. Most have very similar regulations. The BIG exceptions that I can think off are the Sawtooths and Red Rocks.

Actually, no official Wilderness in Red Rocks. Just Wilderness Study Area for now, and that doesn't include Calico Hills, only the big escarpment west of the scenic loop. RR has unique management.

As for Sawtooths, I know not. Here in Colorado at least, bolts ARE allowed in wilderness, but NOT power drilling. I assume that's nationwide for all Wilderness areas.

Jeff Stephens wrote:I assume that's nationwide for all Wilderness areas.

I think it depends on each individual managing agency. There's nothing in Title 36 of the CFR prohibiting fixed anchors in wilderness (easy to search).

So, you need to get the particular land manager's plan and check to see if there are any fixed anchor restrictions.

Jeff Stephens wrote: Here in Colorado at least, bolts ARE allowed in wilderness, but NOT power drilling. I assume that's nationwide for all Wilderness areas.

That's what I've always understood as well. It's interesting though, because here in Utah there is a place called the Uintas (Uinta Wilderness) and it's in super, super hard rock (quartzite) and a ton of sport routes are here. I can't imagine people hand-drilling this stuff... maybe it's not a true "wilderness" area, though.

All of this does make me wonder if it is in fact nation-wide like I always thought it was. I'm not so sure anymore.

Brian in SLC wrote: Well, I've read the literature and don't see it. If you could reference where in any management plan, forest plan, etc, I'd appreciate it.

I'd also like to know where this is written. First I've heard of it.

Peter Springs wrote:It's interesting though, because here in Utah there is a place called the Uintas (Uinta Wilderness) and it's in super, super hard rock (quartzite) and a ton of sport routes are here. I can't imagine people hand-drilling this stuff... maybe it's not a true "wilderness" area, though.

I think most, if not all, of the popular areas in the Uintas (Ruth Lake, Stone Garden, Moosehorn) are not in wilderness.

And, I do know folks who hand drilled routes there. Yikes!

Brian in SLC wrote: I think most, if not all, of the popular areas in the Uintas (Ruth Lake, Stone Garden, Moosehorn) are not in wilderness. And, I do know folks who hand drilled routes there. Yikes!

Concur with Mr. Brian on the wilderness part.

Ah, must be like a National Forest at that point still then. That would explain it. I wonder if that means that you could bike up to where it turns into wilderness... heh.

Kia Marie wrote:I'm familiar with the CFR, thanks. If you're ever interested in stopping by our office, I have plenty of copies of the mandate that states that there is no bolting in the wilderness.

Scan and post it, or, email me a copy please.

Also, a reference to where this is located in the forest/management plan.

Thanks.

Kia Marie wrote:I'm familiar with the CFR, thanks. If you're ever interested in stopping by our office, I have plenty of copies of the mandate that states that there is no bolting in the wilderness.

please post this information, it would be a huge change to climbing in the wasatch

thanks!

There is a sign from time to time at the mouth of Tank Canyon that says "No Camping". It gets vandalized and ripped out about every year though.

I'd be interested in reading the CFR as well. Meanwhile this might be helpful:

BLM Fixed Anchors for Climbing in Designated Wilderness Info

The CFR is online. And, easy to search.

ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/te…;tpl=%2Findex.tpl

Try browsing Title 36 (for some "light" reading...ha ha).

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

Unless something has changed in the last few years that we haven't heard about, neither the Forest Service nor the National Park Service yet have formal regulations regarding fixed anchors in wilderness areas administered by the two agencies.

In 1997, the USFS attempted to ban fixed anchors in wilderness areas under USFS administration; however, the USDA (the Forest Service's parent Department) rescinded the ban in 1998 and formed a rulemaking committee.

See page 6 of this Access Fund newsletter for the story as of 2007.