Truth about Protein

For the longest time I have associated protein with lifting weights and getting big. However as I climb harder and with this summer really kicking up my training, I am starting to read more about proteins for recovery.

I am sure a lot of you know why more about the subject, so I was hoping the community could spread light on the subject as it applies to our sport of climbing. And secondly how would you recommend protein to someone doing a combo of cardio/climbing workouts, if at all?

For me, I am doing cardio workouts 4-5 days a week (a mix between 3 mile runs and lower intensity biking) and then about 3 days of hard climbing (2 of those in the gym) and a mix of 1 or 2 light gym days running laps. I mix my hard cardio days with my light gym climbing and so on. The results are clear as I have dropped 5 pounds and I am feeling stronger on the rock as every.

I guess my main question is could a protein supplement added to this workout routine help me recover faster? Or is protein just going to encourage increase mass and ruin my weight to strength ratio?

I'm not a nutritionist, but one thing I have found with protein and climbing:

don't just add 50g or whatever of protein to your existing intake. Rather, try to make more of your existing caloric intake consist of lean proteins.

I hear you more along the lines of get your protein naturally through your diet. With that I am in college so although I am not eating fast food or anything, meats tend to be more expensive then not for my budget. So as I try to get my proteins naturally though my diet, I am sure its not always the case that I am getting what I need.

I guess that comes back to the idea of muscle recovery and if protein is really necessary right after the hard workouts or not.

More opinions!

When you're pissing a bunch of cloudy stuff, you went to far :)

But seriously, athletes often need some extra protein to recover and this includes climbing. You don't have to go overboard with shakes and tons of extra though.

I mix bulk maltodextrin and whey protein for a recovery drink after hard rides or workouts and it's beneficial in a number of ways.

Just be aware and choose wisely....

Many folks may be aware that for decades, scientists have known that some mammals placed on a calorie restricted diet live longer and healthier lives (up to 20-30%). This has yet to be proven conclusively in humans; however, some recent research indicates that it may actually be protein restriction that fosters longevity. Could be bad news for the Atkins/Paleo diet people, but of course, these are only early results.

newscientist.com/article/mg…

Just passing along some interesting info. I have no dog in this fight, and no one could accuse me following a restricted diet of any sort. ;^D

johnL wrote: If you don't know what you weigh in kg, about 1/2 an hour on google will teach you all you need to know.

Wow. Math in our schools is way worse than I thought. 1/2 hour to figure if I should divide or multiply by 2.2. Or is that 1/2 hour to learn how to divide and multiply?

I agree Doug. It's way far from applied nutrition for athletes over the short term. I have no idea how to balance these perspectives and I'm sure the longevity research isn't anywhere close to where there's even enough data to make evidence-based trade-offs.

Something to keep in mind for the long-haul though.

Whey protein is a relatively cheap and easy source for adding protein into the diet and is great post workout.
The other thing to keep in mind is total caloric intake and fat intake.

You need to make sure that as long as your keeping up a high volume of activity you need to be sure that your diet also compensates by increasing to meet the demands of providing not only fuel for the activity but also enough calories and raw materials to repair and build more tissue. This may not be as much of a concern at first if you have some extra weight but as that goes you need to put some more fat into the diet.
The human body doesn't repair itself and get stronger very well while it's also very lean.
Psyched to hear that you're having fun training hard,
BA

Thanks a bunch for all the replies guys! So it looks like a general consensus is that protein is a must for the active body and it is something that will help recovery and get the most out of the work outs.

With that how important is the protein in terms of being within 30 minutes of the workout? Do you guys feel that this is a must for the best muscle recovery and to max the benefits of the training? Or is the added protein all that matters? Im curious how important this is in your guys opinion, would you for instance take some protein shake on your climbing trips to help with quick recovery, or is that overkill?

Thanks again for all the replies guys, I am really taking in every post and trying to get as much out of it as possible.

Doug the article was very helpful. The article again stresses this need for immediate post workout supplement for the right effects. What is everyones take on the post workout carb/protein supplement in regards to time?

I try to eat within an hour after working out for a session that lasts an hour to an hour and a half. I am no professional, but if your session spans hours, I think you will need to consume some sort of carbohydrates during your workout. After your workout you want to make sure to eat carbs and protein and drink A LOT of water. Don't forget the carbs! Pay attention to the quality of your protein and carbs. My routine looks something like this:

Pre workout- Protein shake (vanilla whey protein, strawberries, blueberries, ice, 1/3 c raw oatmeal)

Post workout- 4 egg whites and 1 whole egg and 1/2 c oatmeal with almond milk.

The more that you can get your carbs and protein from food, opposed to shakes or bars, the better. Some good examples of high quality carbs- brown rice, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, oranges, apples, vegetables. High quality protein- chicken, fish, eggs, cottage cheese, whey protein.

Just some examples of what works for me. Hope it helps!

Just wanted to share a link to this recent article by consumer reports. Certainly makes me worry every time I mix up a shake after working out...

1.2-1.4 g/kg is the recommended intake level for endurance type athletes.
Divide weight in lbs by 2.2 to get kg.
You don't need to supplement, just eat protein containing food products (meat, eggs, milk, peanut butter, soybeans, etc.)
Spread your protein throughout the day, but be sure to consume some protein and simple carbohydrates soon after a workout. As mentioned previously, low-fat chocolate milk is great.

Just make sure you get a quality protien. A good amino acid complex helps tremendously for muscle recovery too!

Michael G wrote: Consumer Reports Just wanted to share a link to this recent article by consumer reports. Certainly makes me worry every time I mix up a shake after working out...

...uh... wow.

for anyone too lazy to click the link, Consumer Reports tests found lead, arsenic and cadmium in several protein drinks, with some at levels of a few micrograms/serving.

yes but they also found several brands that had no traceable levels of metals, and list lots of regular foods that you consume everyday that have metals in them too.

eat 1-1.5g/lb body weight of protein every day. Try and eat about 30g of protein right after you workout to aid recovery. If youre sore from working out, then make sure to eat a bit of protein right before bed(casein preferably), and some whey as soon as you wake up

Come-on, mix the EAS with the Chocolate Muscle Milk.... You'll get all your consoumption of Arsnic, Lead, Cadnium and a healthy dose of Mercury. No wonder weight trainers are often thought of as jarheads, and I thought it was just a stereotype.

ANd of course regular foods, some even those labelled as totally organic have these very metals in them, depending on the geography of growing area, but not many areas will result in foods with levels exceediong the USP (unless you are gardening on a arsenic mine).

Well I asked around and got a lot of the same answers. A lot of people mentioned the magical number of 30 grams of protein at once is about all your body can take, the rest seems to just be stored in the body as excess or shit out.

Thanks again for all the opinions guys, I am going to take it to heart and really try to take my training to the next level. With that its time to go run..... thanks again guys.

After working out I use Accelerade, it has 1 part protein to 4 parts carbs. I find it works very well. I also ingest something with about 20 grams of protein before my workout, PowerBar Triple Threat bars work well. Proteins from whey isolate and/or soy protein isolate are very eaily and quickly digested. Make sure you eat protein within one hour after a hard workout. Your muscles are far more receptive to protein intake within an hour.

You should take in around 20 grams of protein within 30 minutes after the workout or the increase won't help much. A cheap Whey protein is easiest.

unfortunately there are a lot of misnomers about protein out there these days. not to say that i know everything, but hearing the same thing over and over again from valid sources tends to set in. i'd check out the "china study" if you have questions about protein.

people also tend to think that they need 2g protein per kg of body weight... or slightly higher.. a gram of protein per lb of body weight. for endurance athletes, this is an unnecessarily high amount. it's sad that the 'sport and health' industry has made it's way into supposedly unbiased magazine articles and doctor recommendations. they want you to buy more so they suggest more.

rarely, if ever will i take protein before a workout. it will do little for me (and most) to aid recovery. obviously, taking at least 20g after a workout is highly important. i'd also suggest looking for whey, soy, or other veg-based proteins.