tick marks on crack climbs.

Another fine crack climb has been defaced by tick marks.

This becoming the norm and should not.

Red Planet, Sedona, AZ

wow. beautiful line. lame ticks.

It's where I place pro. You know, every 18 inches or so. Which is more than an aid climber would place, but I just want to play it safe.

That guy probably has to tick mark his lady as well, so he knows where to...you know.

if you don't have the tick marks how do you know where you filed the crack to the right size for that perfect handjam instead of those nasty off-fingers?

Bob Packwood wrote:And what are these ticks supposed to signify? (forgive my ignorance here) What could they possibly be needed for? I am racking my brain..

The ticks are so that the climber can know the exact finger/hand placements for the send. It's actually quite popular on harder trad projects. As with all "ticking," the chalk should be removed once you've left the route.

Okay, I can't climb anywhere close to 5.13 but after taking a look at the MP page for the aforementioned route, I have to ask: is it becoming the norm to list the individual pieces, down to the quickdraws, needed to do a route?

Does anyone else find that lame?

Yeah, obviously there are some cases where a rarely carried piece is useful, or makes a route go from R->PG, and therefore it should be mentioned. But, in general, why so much beta? Adventure, or challenge, anyone?

Chris Drover wrote:Okay, I can't climb anywhere close to 5.13 but after taking a look at the MP page for the aforementioned route, I have to ask: is it becoming the norm to list the individual pieces, down to the quickdraws, needed to do a route? Does anyone else find that lame? Yeah, obviously there are some cases where a rarely carried piece is useful, or makes a route go from R->PG, and therefore it should be mentioned. But, in general, why so much beta? Adventure, or challenge, anyone?

Have you seen the guidebook for Cathedral/Whitehorse Ledge? Don't know if it's out anymore but talk about being spoiled. Even my old gunks guidebook has the approach to the climbs along the carriage road in walking time!! LOL!! When I moved out here I realized how spoiled I was back there!!
Oh and excess chalk and tick marks suck! Anyway according to Harvey Carter chalk is "aid."

Will Butler wrote: The ticks are so that the climber can know the exact finger/hand placements for the send. It's actually quite popular on harder trad projects. As with all "ticking," the chalk should be removed once you've left the route.

More specifically, usually on the right side for the right hand and on the left for the left hand, and yes you should make the effort to brush your tick marks off.

Here is another example of bad form:
mountainproject.com/v/new_m…

Ah, Dustin, that explains the phrase "real men don't use chalk."

there's more chalk left in the tics than from any hand jams. Wonder if they aided the whole route.

Will Butler wrote: It's actually quite popular on harder trad projects.

What does splitter cracks have to do with Trad?

i know it's a slow day at work when i find myself reading this sort of drivel

Ryan Kelly wrote: What does splitter cracks have to do with Trad?

nothing. the fact that this is a 5.13 splitter has to do with hard trad though.

T.L. Kushner wrote: nothing. the fact that this is a 5.13 splitter has to do with hard trad though.

I don't have my conversion chart in front of me... 5.13 splitter, what is that, 5.8c Gunks?

Will Butler wrote: The ticks are so that the climber can know the exact finger/hand placements for the send. It's actually quite popular on harder trad projects. As with all "ticking," the chalk should be removed once you've left the route.

Someone clearly doesn't get the issue. The point is (apart that it's ugly) that it's unnecessary since in large part you should be able to simply look at the crack and figure the sequence.

Plus, in the photo, the "exact placement" doesn't appear to be an issue since the tickmarks are essentially at regular intervals all the way up the crack.

Finally, for all you sport climbers who don't do alot of crack, it's sandstone. The crack is going to be pretty uniform for much of its length, so why the ticks? To remind you to stick your hand back in the crack?

This is reminiscent of watching a bunch of cheeseheads critique their beloved Packers: "Just run it up the middle!"

I'm not a football expert, but I'm pretty sure there is a lot of complicated stuff going on that may not be obvious to the untrained eye. Its not as simple as just running it up the middle every down.

| |---- Good Hold
| /
| |
| |
| \
| | =====Awesome hold
| /
| |
| |
| | *------Great Foot chip
| |
| \
| /----Good Handjam
| |

Its kind of like climbing at a gym where are the holds are marked!

A little much too much with the tick marks.

They might as well brought out the duck tape!

What's the scale in the OP's photo? Did the ticker just reach through the steep bit?

Monomaniac wrote:This is reminiscent of watching a bunch of cheeseheads critique their beloved Packers: "Just run it up the middle!" I'm not a football expert, but I'm pretty sure there is a lot of complicated stuff going on that may not be obvious to the untrained eye. Its not as simple as just running it up the middle every down.

Mono, we want them to run it up the middle because most of us Packer fans are tired of watching the infamous "Packer Sweep" running play that almost always results in a loss. Every year, no matter who the coach is and that stupid sweep play won't die.

just saying....

Monomaniac wrote:This is reminiscent of watching a bunch of cheeseheads critique their beloved Packers: "Just run it up the middle!" I'm not a football expert, but I'm pretty sure there is a lot of complicated stuff going on that may not be obvious to the untrained eye. Its not as simple as just running it up the middle every down.

So enlighten us. And would you have the same opinion if the climb was rated 5.9?