Slash grade mania in Wisconsin

cause it's a sweet word. I personally like "LeDouche"

What's a scorecard? There's a score for climbing rocks? ;)

John K-- Jay and I and others have discussed this before as admins, there is no system to do what I suggested right now. We can try to just go through the WI boulders and put the rating to the closest thing to a consensus as we can, but this might take a while.

Chris treggE wrote:We can try to just go through the WI boulders and put the rating to the closest thing to a consensus as we can, but this might take a while.

Chris, I think this is a bad idea, because in the "details", it will appear as though the person who posted the route gave it the grade that the Admin changed it to. I don't think Admins should ever put a grade in another user's mouth, so to speak. I agree that the grade displayed in the title, etc, should be the consensus, grade, and its something we've brought up on the Admin thread, but its apparently either too hard to do or not a high priority for the landlords.

You Wisconsinites should move to JTree where they too have a slash problem, V0/V8.

Me, I'd go with the lower #. But hey, in Flag you're always scared for someone pimp-slapping-down your rating.

BTW, "Douche" is popular because we are all "Douches" at some point. It's an action more than a trait.

Plus it's REALLY fun to say, a very expressive word.

Seriously though, there's probably no solution. Just go send something and worry about who's buying the suds.

Guess I never really thought about it too much. I actually like the slash grade. That's just me though. A problem like Jenga might actually be a perfect example. Many people think it's a 6 and many people think it's a 7. Possibly a perfect interpretation of the problem would be V6/7.

And yet, who really cares? As long as it's close it shouldn't matter.

John and Paul, I believe you both climb mainly routes at DL. Correct? These routes tend to have more solid grades because they've been done THOUSANDS of times in certain instances. Many of these boulder problems have only been done a couple of times. This can lead to the lack of confirmation on the ratings.

And then we have cases like Anchorpoint which should honestly be rated V3/7. There goes Runnells just screwing everything up by being tall AND strong. Not allowed.

In my experience, grades in Wisconsin are created in isolation from the rest of the country. Grades in Wisco are pretty meaningless when compared to grades elsewhere.

For that reason, I think you should keep the slashgrade alive, it could be fun for the slashgrade to be what defines midwestern climbing. After all, once you've climbed the same V5 thirty times, it really does start to feel like V3, so why not call it V3/V4?

Approach the ambiguity of slashgrades as inverse grade inflation rather than sandbagging...

I try my best Chris!!!

"John and Paul, I believe you both climb mainly routes at DL. Correct? These routes tend to have more solid grades because they've been done THOUSANDS of times in certain instances. "

correct. But I do boulder at the lake. That being said, I dont see a single slash grade in any of the routes put up by the DLFA. They gave it a solid grade and left it at that. There are a few c/d or a/b, but to me, that isn't so bad. These routes were given a solid grade from the get go. So being done thousands of times or not doesnt make a difference.

We seem to have gotten slightly off track. My post is not to abolish slash grades. I was just pointing out that slash grading seems to have gotten a bit out of hand in WI. That's all.

One of those is mine. I'll get right on fixing that. Downgrade time!

John W. Knoernschild wrote:that being said, can we just stick with + or - instead of a slash grade. I don't like +- either, but its better than a slash grade.

sounds like the old debate between +/- and a, b, c, d for routes.

Well John, Remo has changed 82 problem grades in the past 24 hours. Looks like you did a few as well. So, in total 85 slash grades were removed from WI. Not sure how many that leaves or what was really accomplished but there ya have it.

Wow! Thats pretty intense. Thx Remo. As always, your efforts on this site have been great!

Let the record stat that I'm only rating in slash grades for now on! I used to be like 50/50 now it's full on.

@eggnuts you need to sack up sir. Jenga is no harder than 6 my friend.

@sweaty Jenga is solid V6/7 and you know it.

oh stop with that, you're going to piss off Knoernschild and Paul! You really just don't care about anybody else's feelings.

Screw it, everything is V4 from here on out. Comrade Schultz sez so. It's law.

I started on the B scale and still think its far better than the V scale. "B" measures the community rather than the difficulty, which I find to be more free. Think of this, if the Mandala was B1( because of many ascents, almost common nowadays) I would at least give it a try, knowing that abunch of people have sent it, but at V12(?) I'd just take a gander and walk over to some V1s.

So maybe the reason there are so many slash grades is that there are a handful of people contributing to finding and putting up new problems. If you don't like the grades go and get more shit done yourself.