supertape for trad slings?

saw some supertape at my local shop recently, and it got me thinking, could i double fishermans or something supertape, and use it as a trad sling, or something similar?

supertape?

Oh, this is from canyoneeringusa.com/utah/in…

" 9/16in Climb-Spec Supertape and 11/16" Supertape are commonly available and provide plenty of strength at considerably lower bulk and lighter weight. The single strand rating is 2200 lbf (9 kN). When sewn into a sling, the sling is good for 5000 lbs (22 kN). When tied into a sling, the strength is about 3600 lbf (15 kN). "

I would think waterknot is the way to go.

yeah i had never heard of it before then either(thats not saying much though, i'm only in my second year of flailing on rock) apparently its like mini webbing.

Just found out I've used that before, I had it tied with a water knot like I said and had it for a trad sling. I never knew it was called supertape though...I'd say it's fine, just leave a few inches of tail on the water knot. Even though I did it, get someone else's opinion first! Dont have any anymore... I tried to make 2 straps by cutting it in half lengthwise for utility uses...Didn't work...makes a BIG mess. I figured out webbing is made up of LOTS of little strands..

OK youngsters- before it all there was no such thing. The firsr "supertape wa s doubled 9/16" for draws. 11/16 came out around '84 and wild things started sewing it up.

so it is cool to be used for a trad sling or two? im finding it harder and harder to drop 11 bucks for sewn dyneema and nymex and need a few more slings

Well, at REI they have metolius slings for $5 each i think. they arent small and light, but they are burly as hell, plus id think a sewn sling would be less bulky than a sing tied with a knot.

Tie up a few- they ain't gonna break.. and ya can thread them though shit easy

When did 1" tubular webbing slings go out of style?
Inexpensive. Tied off with a ring bend, comes in a variety of colors.
Shoulder length (for those who are new to the sport: can be carried bandolier style, over the shoulder.
For trad, it is the only way to go.

If you catch the sales at Ragged Mountain in NH they have sewn nylon slings for $2.75 in the shoulder length variety. Certainly not 1" webbing either. I would guess they are 11/16" supertape. Double length are $5.00 last time I was there.

Tom Hanson wrote:When did 1" tubular webbing slings go out of style? Inexpensive. Tied off with a ring bend, comes in a variety of colors. Shoulder length (for those who are new to the sport: can be carried bandolier style, over the shoulder. For trad, it is the only way to go.

I still buy the 1" tubular ones from Fish Products. They make me feel good looking at them, as part of an anchor.

Hi David,
I beg to argue. The ringbend/waterknot is easily untied, which makes it so utilitarian.
If a leader doesn't examine the knots on his/her rack prior to every ascent, or the condition of his/her rope, well, then I guess they get what's coming to them.
Robert 560: I hate to generalize, but after reading so many of your posts, I tend to think we are cut from the same old school mold.

Tom Hanson wrote: Robert 560: I hate to generalize, but after reading so many of your posts, I tend to think we are cut from the same old school mold.

Thanks Tom, I'll take that as a compliment! I did my first routes in the mid 70's. Been at it awhile.

Robert (sorry to hijack the orginal thread)Became officially involved in 1971 at the ripe old age of twelve while goring (growing) up in Minnesota, of all places.
Modern day participants have no idea what an anomaly it was to get into climbing at twelve in the midwest.
I had to practice running belays and aid technique in trees, while conning my elementary school pals into belaying, for crying out loud!

Water knot easily untied?! I've had some very frustrating times untying water knots from 1" webbing after a day of toproping...

One way to easily loosen up a water knot is lay it on concrete and roll it around while tapping it with a hammer. Makes the fibers slip against each other and loosen up.

I've taken out water knots in an all-summer slackline this way.

or between the palms of your hands, even a tree!

David Sweet wrote:One of the main reasons that runners tied from tubular webbing are no longer commonly used in climbing is that the only practical knot usable with it - water knot, frost knot, grapevine, ring bend, etc. - is notoriously insecure. Not weak - insecure. That is, it comes untied all by itself, especially under cyclical loading - weight, un-weight, weight, un-weight, etc. A number of serious accidents resulted from this phenomenon before it was discovered. That is why tape or sling material is best used as sewn runners and anchor material that needs to be tied and untied for use is best made of cord or rope. The tape is cheap but if you're gonna tie it into runners, use really long tails and check the knots every time you use them.

seriously? what kind of climber would put 800 or so cycles on a water knot without checking the tails periodically?

Some old school testing results:
xmission.com/~tmoyer/testin…

Check the knot periodically, they are perfectly safe. 1" webbing went "out of style" (even though plenty of folks still use it) because the Spectra/Dyneema slings are COOL, and weigh less.

Ran across this thread again. I spent $21 and made 10 2' slings out of supertape and still have 30 feet or so left over. I tied the slings with a water know but also sewed the tails into the sling with 3 bar tack sews across each tail. That was 60 bar tacks when I had never done them before but I love my new slings!

Using it as a sling is cool.

A little off topic but something to note.

Don't use it for replacing the sling on a C3 or C4 BD cam. The wire on the cam will cut though the sling before you reach the breaking strenght of the cam. That why the slings are double wrapped around the wire of the cams.