Top 3 climbs in Arizona

The only problem that Paul Davidson only eluded to is what everyone is looking for in a perfect climb is highly personal, and that may change on a daily basis. Some people want easier cruiser routes, while others want butt-hard routes, while others are looking at perfection in the line/formation......

Also comes another problem, if you can't do any of the moves on say on my top pick (Shangri-la and at 5.12d some people can cruise it and some people won't even think about it) you won't think its very fun.

Which is why I think this kind of tthread while interesting is sort of silly.

And ...Punks on Dope as a top three in California, lets get real, I wouldn't even put it in the top 300.

1. The one I just finished.
2. The one I'm on.
3. The one I'm going to do.

Paul Davidson wrote:It's just too personalized. The state has way too much good rock.

Agreed. As a reference, these kind of lists are cool, but you never know if the one star climb is really a gem and the four star is a turd. And it varies by day and by climber. If I'm out there climbing, I'm usually pretty damn happy about whatever route I find myself on.

Sure it's personalized. No question. But it's interesting to hear your personal opinions. I have a few more routes on my to-do list thanks to this topic.

rickd wrote: If there was one crack to do in central arizona it IS R&B but now access is jacked. It may only be 55', but position and moves beat out steve's arete and a number of others. It is a supra classic single pitch that a group of 20 climbers should storm Troon to go do (risking jail time). I am only sorry that 2 of 3 of my recs are "illegal".

RickD- Is R&B really better than the finger crack pitch of Reunion at GM? I'm only asking becasue I haven't done it, and if it is better than Reunion, it may very well be worth going to jail for...

I've done R&B and Reunion, both many years ago. I recall R&B being very grainy and rough but I have to agree with Rickd that it is in a great position. Located at the top of Troon, it has great views. Well, they were until the houses closed it in.

Reunion was much more fun for me. Then again, I'm not as hardcore as Rick, I like keeping my skin intact.

sold.

you had me at Granite Mountain. jackpot!

First of all, I can't believe someone put Loc-Tite in their top three. I would rather cover my naked body with a mason jar full of fire ants and have a chick-flick wathcing marathon with my wife than climb that one again...

Anyways... I could really only come up with two routes that I think to be a top contenders simply because I still haven't been to some of the more classy climbing destinations in Arizona, such as Cochise.

1. Orifice Politics
2. The Monk
3. ??????

"the best place in the state to climb is Lower Devil's Canyon East. Not a route in the database for LDE that isn't sporting at least one star and most have multiple's generally reserved for the all-time classic routes. Go there! Go there now!"

I would agree that this place definitly suprised me with its long routes and very unique form of volcanic rock. It reminded me more of climbing on sandstone in terms of the texture and feel of the rock, and its patina-like edge.

I haven't done much in Arizona.

However, I will give a shout-out to Paradise Lost, since that's not yet been mentioned here. One of the most excellent corners anywhere.

(edit: just saw that Chuck mentioned it earlier. No matter. That climb is awesome.)

Marcy-Maybe once or twice, I don't remember either. LDE looks awesome and can't wait to get out there sometime. This thread has made me realize that life gets in the way of climbing a lot with all the classics around.

Some of the rock in LDC is oddly similar in nature to some the sandstone at Red Rocks, particularly the Panty Wall. Regardless, LDC is a great place to climb with long routes. One of my favorites was Eyes of the World.

Camhead,

Next time you come through Arizona give one of us a shout. If you like Paradise Forks, you'll love what the Waterfall has developed into with a doubling (tripling?) of the number or routes this year (ok, maybe in the last 2.5yrs).

Not sure if I'm still allowed to post here anymore, but

multipitch:

Absinthe of Mallet (original route, not the current version)
What's My Line
Warpaint

cragging:

R4
Old Man
Agatha Christie

Marcy wrote:Yes! Come to LDE now!!! It's worth the hike across the canyon. The area certainly has its share of less than desirable rock...but the most of the routes are on good quality rock and have required minimal cleaning. If the a route has some choss on it, it's likely mentioned in the description. So cool to see so many people making the hike across the canyon recently!

my better half said it perfectly! :)

Forest Hill wrote:Not sure if I'm still allowed to post here anymore

yep carefull there now Forest.. them are rules now ya'know when you move up to the 'rado

good luck this weekend :)

Hard to narrow it down to just three, so I listed six...

This is the tip of the iceberg.

Cragging Routes -

1. Aqualung - Paradise Forks
2. Twilight Zone - West Elden
3. Spite & Malice - Waterfall Area - Oak Creek Canyon

Multi-Pitch

1. Book of Friends - Oak Creek Canyon
2. Wasteland - Cochise Stronghold
3. Coyote Tower - Sedona

chuck claude wrote:Camhead, Next time you come through Arizona give one of us a shout. If you like Paradise Forks, you'll love what the Waterfall has developed into with a doubling (tripling?) of the number or routes this year (ok, maybe in the last 2.5yrs).

Chuck, thanks for the invite. I really hope to get to NoAZ sometime soon. I've heard great things about the Waterfall, and have not been to Winslow Wall yet, either.

Man, it hurt not to include wasteland in that list. That route is just so so good. I dunno. Could displace one of 'em.

I want to climb The Totem Pole so bad it hurts.
I know this spire is "sacred" to The Navaho, unless there are dollars involved, but, short of pissing off the tribal council or paying exorbitant fees, is there any legitimate way of doing so?