The Diamond

I am not trying to be critical as I've been there and done that, but...

Why is every climber I've ever met so reluctant to leave a biner/sling to make things easier and/or safer? It continually amazes me. I always bring a couple biners and webbing that I don't mind leaving now just for these situations.

Thanks for the heads up on conditions. Can't wait to get up there again.

Paul Hunnicutt wrote:Why is every climber I've ever met so reluctant to leave a biner/sling to make things easier and/or safer?

I actually had my bail gear (long sling, quick link, rap ring, small knife) with me. I just saw no problem with the anchors.

Anyone want to share an opinion on what snow travel gear is necessary for getting up to Broadway, via North Chimney, given current conditions?
Ditto for descending from the summit via the Cables Route.

-light technical tool?
-light alpine boots?

The Cables route has at least 5 eyebolts exposed as of Sunday morning FYI. Definitely the quickest way down. You can avoid the snow by traversing towards chasm view though we just glissaded down it when it was soft.

JHaas wrote:Anyone want to share an opinion on what snow travel gear is necessary for getting up to Broadway, via North Chimney, given current conditions? Ditto for descending from the summit via the Cables Route. -light technical tool? -light alpine boots?

It really depends on if it is clear the night before. Last week it was nice having an ice axe getting up the snow to the base of the wall. We climbed Crack of Delight, but the parties going up the N. Chimney seemed to be doing well once they got to the rock.

Thought I would also share this update I posted under the Diamond:

There is a new 2 bolt anchor 10 feet left of the D7 anchor on Almost Table Ledge. The top D7 rap was often the site of stuck ropes, and there are some large unstable blocks right under the anchor. I drilled the new anchor (two 50mm SS Triplex bolts with quicklinks and rap rings)and removed one of the old bolts, leaving a bolt and fixed pin on the old anchor. I will remove the other bolt and the swanged cable from the pin as well as patch the old holes later this summer.

For those interested, the older 3/8" Rawl I removed had almost no surface rust, and none in the threads.

Thanks Kevin. Your efforts are MUCH appreciated!

For the record I wasn't trying to call anyone out in particular at all. I've climbed with Tim and I definitely would again.

...like I have said I have been there and done that with raps. It is just so common for climbers to be cheap and not want to leave anything behind at a rap station that it gets frustrating. It was just a reminder that your life, time, and experience in the mountains is worth more a few bucks in gear. I can't even count anymore the amount of times that a partner has taken gear I left at the rap station and gone down on some death "anchor" simply because I supposedly tested it with the gear in place.

JHaas wrote:Anyone want to share an opinion on what snow travel gear is necessary for getting up to Broadway, via North Chimney, given current conditions? Ditto for descending from the summit via the Cables Route. -light technical tool? -light alpine boots?

Getting up to North Chimney in approach shoes was "reasonable" on Monday. It wasn't that cold that morning so there was a bit of soft snow on the surface. Kicking in was do-able when some extra security was necessary. I wish I had gloves on to make the occasional stab with my nut tool and #3 camalot a little more comfortable. Not sure how this would have gone if it were a little colder and the snow a bit harder.

North Chimney was fine (relatively speaking). We were able to avoid most of the snow and water. Kevin's beta above works quite nicely. Thanks Kevin.

On Monday (7/27) the snow up to the base of the N Chimney was rock hard. Took us about 45 minutes of chopping steps with rocks -- not fun at all. The chimney itself was dry after the snow stopped. On the casual route pitch 4 (or 3 depending on if you link or not - the chimney pitch after the 5.6 traverse) was sopping wet, so be prepared for that, parts of the handcrack pitch above were also wet.

Other than that conditions were excellent.