Lone Peak Cirque - Summit Wall - The Open Book

Heading up this weekend and was wanting some rack info?

Thanks!

Uh, nuts and cams work for most people when they find a place to put them in. Take heed of the later part of the last sentence.

cruel bastard...

Okay so I am cruel ... guess I am tired of people wanting to be spoon fed.

Ton of gear on a along approach - Hahahahaha. Give me break. It takes 3 hours -3.5 hours at best to walk up to Cirque. That is a short approach for an alpine climbs. Some walk up in a day, do a couple of routes on the Summit Wall, walk out, and still have time for a burger and beer at the Cotton Bottom.

Okay a single set of nuts and set of hexes. That is what I used when I did the climb. Runners - take some as they reduce the rope drag. Oh, and watch out for Boys Scouts on the summit trundling rocks.

Seriously, if you are that worried about taking too much gear for such a loooooong approach then climbing may be the best activity for you. Sheesh, just go stuff your rack into your pack and go have an adventure.

Thanks for the info. I am psyched!

The Vertical Overhangs link-up is really cool as well- and it'll devour the rest of any part of a rack you haul up there.

Have fun- and post some info on the water conditions if you could. I like to be spoon-fed.

am I missing something? did the guy mention anything besides gear beta? guess some folks need to prove they are badass on the interweb :)

In deference to grumpy old man Sanderson - "in my day we hammered pitons with our teeth.......and we liked it that way".

A single rack of cams (blue TCU through #3 Camalot) and a rack of stoppers will get you up it. I don't remember any stretch requiring doubling up on a specific size. A minimum of 6-8 long slings are a given for alpine routes.

Get an early start. Its a long hike and we have had afternoon T showers quite a bit this summer.

I will put my spoon in my pocket now. Don't be mistaken, its made of wood.

PT

I have never pounded a pin in with my teeth. That was the real hard men like Reese and Wilson. I use a nice polypro hammer that cushions the blow. BTW Reese and Wilson and some others did the FA of the first 5 pitches of The Open Book before being stormed off. Probably find a few of their pins along the way - though I would not trust them after 47 years.

PT - you got a wood spoon to gnaw on, that sucks. Old gummies like me got to gnaw on a silver dollar as a kid. It was only those rich kids who got a silver spoon. And when cuttin teeth a dab of brandy on the gums made everything good.

Just did my first trip up to the cirque on Saturday 7/11. There is still a lot of snow. So there is tons of water. The 99% of the floor of the cirque is covered in snow still. My partner was amazed at seeing so much snow at this time of year. There should be water up there for a long time. It was an awesome day and I'm already looking forward to going back.