Best beginner mulit pitch Trad routes in Boulder Canyon

I would like some advice on good routes 5.7 or under in Boulder Canyon. I am looking for routes with great and numerous pro opportunites. Also considering the walk off or solid rappel anchors. I have done some single pitch routes but would like to break in to multi.

thanks for the help

HI John,

I'd recommend routes on The Dome. Right at the beginning of the canyon and lots of routes under 5.7. Everything is two pitches. You will have lots of company to compare notes with on most days as well.

It's been over 15 years since I was there, but many fond memories. You can walk off the top on the right side as far as I recall and I don't remember any horror stories, so pro should have been pretty good.

JW

Try the West Face route (5.5) on Castle Rock. Easy access, two pitches of good climbing followed by class 4 down to a rappel off a tree. Watch out for a couple of loose boulders on the second pitch if you wander too far right.

Cobb Rock on the south side, about 5 or 6 miles up canyon. North Face Center, Empor, and Northwest Corner.

Wonderful 2 or 3 pitch routes. Easy walk off.

Fun tyrolean traverse over the river to approach, then about 3 minutes walk up the slope.

There's a handy new feature in the search tool that will help you expand your options: search Boulder Canyon for rock routes 5.0-5.7 with at least 2 pitches.

I've done the work for you, and all you have to do this time is click.

Enjoy the view!

Nice work with the new feature Justin!

John, be wary of all the routes on the Dome that go through the roof above the "cozy hang" belay. The pro is okay, but that roof has got to be the hardest (or at least most awkward) 5.7 move in the canyon. Also, the traverse over to that belay station could be quite unnerving to a beginning leader.

I second Cobb Rock. Some of my favorite routes in the canyon, and generally good pro.

Nick Wilder wrote: John, be wary of all the routes on the Dome that go through the roof above the "cozy hang" belay. The pro is okay, but that roof has got to be the hardest (or at least most awkward) 5.7 move in the canyon. Also, the traverse over to that belay station could be quite unnerving to a beginning leader. I second Cobb Rock. Some of my favorite routes in the canyon, and generally good pro.

Hmmm... +1, +1, and +1.

= +3.

Got to agree on all accounts Nick.

I know you said Boulder Canyon, but how do you feel about Eldo? I actually think there are some better moderate multi-pitch routes there than Boulder Canyon. Swanson's Arete is fantastic (have to do the West Chimney-5.7 to get to it, then 5.5-5.6) and so is Wind Ridge. Calypso is great, but watch out for the start.

I'll reinforce what others have said about the Dome. I think the Owl and Cozyhang are both fun routes, but neither has pro wherever you want it if 5.7 is your lead limit.

There are some decent multi-pitch moderates at Lumpy as well.

thanks for the advice. As far as Eldorado canyon is concerned I have a few in mind but was just wondering what people thought of certain routes up in Boulder Canyon.

Advice seems to back up what I have read or heard about the Dome area.
thanks again

Hey John,

Sorry for steering you towards the Dome. There are a few climbs on there that would still be good, but I'd take the majority opinion.

Hope you have fun.

Cheers,
Jason

John,
Not rereading closely enough to notice if I'm repeating others, but East Slab on the Dome *is* an easy/moderate classic, with a much kinder, gentler roof exit than the longer routes to the left. The face is a bit run out after the crack ends, but every move gets lower angle and easier, then plug a cam or two for the cool, easy, final roof.

Nick Wilder wrote: John, be wary of all the routes on the Dome that go through the roof above the "cozy hang" belay. The pro is okay, but that roof has got to be the hardest (or at least most awkward) 5.7 move in the canyon.

The roof is a piece of cake if you use the infamous "head jam" (see pictures in Cozy Hang description)