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Good lead/TR near Junction?

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,850

Looking for some nice 5.5-5.7 trad lines that I can lead, and TR the GF on.I lead trad into the 5.11a range, but we are trying to get her more comfortable on real stone. Mild aproaches(less than 2mi.), near Grand Junction, in Unaweep or near the Monument. Moab is out,(would have to bring her Mom=NO CLIMBING.) Sport will do, but I would prefer to plug some gear. Thanks Jp.

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,517
Lower Monument Canyon

would be a good option. Easy approach, good lines. A lot of sun so that may be an issue if it's really hot out. Check out the Left Dihedral and ?Luhrs Route?.

Ryan-GJ Grube · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

Junction is pretty limited in the sub 5.9 range climbs.

The best beginner lead in Unaweep is beginners luck on the Sunday wall. Its is as secure feeling as you get at Unaweep and eats pro, a beginner will appreciate doubles through #1 BD and one #2 plus a few tcus. I would NOT recommenced the "5.8" bolt line that is beside beginners luck. Don Juan is right there as well and it a decent but short 5.6 that's fun. Also check out the Sun Towers for some 5.6 and 5.7 cracks and a 5.8 bolt line.

I would also recommend Luhrs Route as well. One warning is that the crux is really the face moves to the crack, and can be intimidating. You need a double length sling off the last bolt and a fall, on easy ground though, would be a potential for a grounder or a least a nasty pendulum. The rest of the route is secure and lots of pro.

The left dihedral is a good 5.8, but its a LOT of laybacking and less than secure feeling crux at the top, but it is well protected. A beginner may like 3 0.75 BDs to really sew it up.

Ottos route on independence monument is a great lead as well, especially the 1st pitch (5.6/.7), the 2nd is a little more intimidating, 5.8 OW, 3 (5.6/.7) and 4 (5.8+) are sport. A great way to do it would be to swing leads with the beginner taking 1 and 3. Its great place to try tricams if you gott'em.

Some of the best beginner leads in the area are really near Glenwood. Check out No Name, a handful of good trads under 5.8.

MARC KENNEY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 0

I second Unaweep and most of what Ryan said.

Basically Lower Mother's Buttress, 1st climbs you come to at Sunday, climbs to the left of 1st climbs at Sunday toward TV wall, Sun Tower (respect the private land entrance), Sweet Sunday and Sunday (1st pitch is 5.7ish ... 2nd is 5.9 ... 3rd your choice).

I tend to disagree with Ryans rating of Ottos route ... To me those last 2-3 moves are not 5.8+, they are more like 5.10. But I'm a whimp. If you don't have tricams I'd recommend a small cam in the crack just before you go over the lip (I think a 0.3 BD size, but don't remember), otherwise is just an old angle in a drilled hole. I even think its in upside down to direct all the water into the hole just to add that much more flavor.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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