Pumpiest Routes on the FR?

My primary weakness is getting pumped. I can do hard moves, I can find stances where others can't, but I can't just hang the eff on.

Most notably I climb 11d/12a MAX (and not onsight) at a place like the RRG in Kentucky whereas I can climb a full number grade harder than that pretty much everywhere else. It's because I can do moves, figure out a rest, get it back, and finish.

I'm not complaining about my ability. I'm relatively satisfied with that. I'm more bothered by my inability. I'd like to find some routes on the front range that just pump the everloving poopoo out of me. The fewer the stances the better. Stuff between 12a and 13a.

Off the top of my head, I can only think of Sonic Youth. If I forced myself to lay back Bone Collector, I bet I'd be pretty pumped too.

Other ideas? Bonus points for relative ease of setting up a TR to run laps on it with a mini-trax.

I need to spend a month in Maple.

Brennivin Roof
Sucking My Will
Adventure Kayak Trundle
Battle's End?

johnL wrote: I need to spend a month in Maple.

or Rifle.

john,

that's a tough question. it seems that the FR climbing doesn't really lend itself to super enduro routes. the routes are more similar to what you mentioned (ie hard couple moves, then rest, hard couple moves, then rest) or more technical. the only place i can think of off hand is the security risk buttress in boulder canyon, but it is closed for raptors right now.

other than that, mayb shelf road, where at least the (good) routes don't have ledges every 10 feet. maybe laps on 'tits up' at cactus, or some of the older 12 to 12+ routes at the bank (suedehead, surreal estate, etc). also, older routes at the gym and the north end. most of the new routes just link up 10 foot faces between ledges, so you are wasting your time there.

to be honest with you, you would probably have a lot more success training this area in the climbing gym by doing 4x4's on the 12- routes. it seems that the gyms around here tend to put up routes that are fairly consistent, without definitive cruxes. this is good in some ways, bad in others. good luck and let us know what you find out.

quick edit to add: maybe try the steeper sides of the flatirons, and ridges 1-4 on eldorado mountain. there are a handful of steep, sometimes longish routes in these areas.

I agree with Slim. I don;t know the area that well, but I'm not aware of any routes that meet your requirements. Sucking is definitely not an enduro route along the lines of the Red. You want routes with 50+ moves of 5.10 with no rests. If there were anything like that around here, it would be crazy crowded!

I thought Red Neck Hero was pumpy.

EDIT: and with the exception of Brennivin, the other ones on my list you have to force yourself not to rest. Sometimes you have to use your imagination when you train. work with what you got.

I must have misunderstood the OP.

WiledHorse wrote:I thought Red Neck Hero was pumpy.

That definitely looks promising. Is the bolting old school? Most sport routes on the FR with 7 or 8 bolts are less than 50' long (not trying to start anything, just sayin', Darkness @ Noon has 8 bolts, and you need a 70m rope to get down--definitely an enduro rte, so it IS possible for an 8 bolt route to be enduro, but its rare).

WiledHorse wrote:I must have misunderstood the OP.

Point taken. Thanks for ruining our Front Range bashing session :)

I assumed he's looking for a "mindless jughaul", based on his comparison to the Red. Something that you are almost certain to fail on due to pump, rather than beta or technique. Step off the ground, sprint until your forearms explode. I guess you could do that on a campus board, but it wouldn't be very much fun.

You could make a trip to Garden of the Gods and climb Triple Exposure. Beyond me ability...but long and sustained. Then you have a shorter pumpy route around the corner called Grapefruit Dance and then there's Kor's Korner. Some pretty tough local climbers had to work Triple Exposure for a while to get it, I'm sure you would be pleased with the pump, but maybe not the rock.

Monomaniac wrote: Point taken. Thanks for ruining our Front Range bashing session :)

;) afterall, i gotta

...

btw, what is considered pumpy to john or myself may be your warm-up.
(thats a compliment)

Slammer at Wall Of Justice. All jugs but will pump the living shit out of you. or Pizza Dick at Nomad Cave. It's short but very pumpy. Fuck man just go hang out at Primo Wall. You'll get what you need.

Head like a Hole in CCC is sorta short, but will provide the crapload of lactic hell you require just trying to hang on.

Anarchitect in CCC is an easy toprope with the possibility of forearm explosion after a few laps, I would think.

The Monument in Eldo (without any knee bars) with the 13a finish will also do you right. After leading, toproping both of these is friendly, chug laps till your eyes bulge.

Oh or Industrial Wall is very good too.

JLP wrote:Ditto on repeats. Figure that's ~500ft per lap of 5.11 and harder. Not much overhanging, but I'm sure a similar thing could be arranged elsewhere to get that.

The Bastille is 350 feet tops...

John you just need a longer rope....400 feet of even 5.10 in 5 minutes will do the trick I promise.

Hank Caylor wrote:Head like a Hole in CCC is sorta short, but will provide the crapload of lactic hell you require just trying to hang on.

I concure

Kevin Stricker wrote: The Bastille is 350 feet tops... John you just need a longer rope....400 feet of even 5.10 in 5 minutes will do the trick I promise.

very top of N. face of the bastille (where outerspace tops out) to the road = 285'

Wayne Crill wrote: very top of N. face of the bastille (where outerspace tops out) to the road = 285'

Killjoy! Next you're gonna say El Cap is shy of 3000'.

I think the Spot has a Treadwall.

John, the problem is you're too strong. Sit around on the couch for a month and get that %-body fat number up a bit, and then these might give you a mild pump:

Highway Robbery 5.12a (The Watchtower, S St Vrain): a reasonably long section of 5.11 moves.

Big Big Monkey Man 5.12b (River Wall, Button Rock Preserve): nothing harder than 5.11c, but lots of it, and steep.

Pretty Blue Gun 5.12a (The Bullet, Button Rock Preserve): you'll eat this crack for breakfast (fat fingers at the crux), but I doubt you can escape the pump -- steep...

Cryonics 5.12c (The Mortuary, S St Vrain): obscure little pitch, but my hands wanted to open up and spit me off on the upper section

Botany of Desire 5.12d (Trojan Bunny Buttress, S St Vrain): You can rest after the first 5.11 section, but once you get going into the crux, forget it -- monster pump at the first set of chains, and it's hard to hang on to get to the top set of chains

Gold Finger 5.13b (The Fang, S St Vrain): I've not done it, so I may be way off -- but it looks like a just-past-vertical crimping hell for the upper section with big pump factor

El Camino Real 5.12d (The Book, Lumpy Ridge): a longer drive for you, but worth it. The 5.11a crux at the end of the pitch is heart-breaking. Keep going up Corner Pump Station if you have any juice left, and do what I think may be the first link-up of these two gorgeous pitches

Blood Feud 5.12c (The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge): I've not done it, but it's supposed to be a great enduro pitch

Already mentioned, but Anarchitect in CCC is a great suggestion. Half a dozen laps on that will get you pretty flamed.

Wet dream in ccc is very pumpy and fun. no move is that bad, and there are definately some rests but i always get good and pumped on it.

Hit the long .12's (90-100') at Devils Head. Relentless crimping w/o rests.