Best Crag We've Never Heard Of

Hank Caylor wrote: I gotta agree on that. It's so damn pretty with little waterfalls. It's like you think elves are going to jump out while your climbing. Very stout grades. JoeA, Take chill pill, it's just a computer screen, BRAH!

Got any pictures?

Ha ha.

When Lynn Hill was giving a slide show at the second Ogden Climbfest, she flashed up a photo of a crag (the horn) and there was this audible gasp that went through the crowd followed by quiet murmering. Way too funny.

I think the Bastille in Eldo is a great little crag.

My favorite crags that are less-known are in the Independence Pass area. Pristine setting, cool summer temps, and no crowds make it one of my favorites to date.

[edited for guideline #1]

Joe A wrote: what's this "they" shit? every published photo i've seen of mallcreek was taken by a coloradian. so lets just put that bullshit to rest. locals don't say much about mallcreek because they don't want it to become another frontrange bro-brah wankfest junkshow like indian creek. sorry for breaking guideline #1, but i'm seriously getting sick of the condescending "those moab locals" bullshit on this site that comes from across the border. the "me too" crowd can have mallcreek. i can think of a handfull other crags nearby that blow mallcreek out of the water. and no way am i telling anyone about them, ever. love always, asshole moab local

Too funny, I first went to Moab about 15 years ago and I have always wondered about this. If you went strictly by the license plates in town you would think you were in Colorado.

2 things I now know Moab residents don't like.

1. European tourists who don't tip.
2. People from the Front Range of Colorado.

Tom Tresslar wrote:We, at least the people with whom I associate, take a slightly less... how can I put this....dick head...stance towards visitors. For the record, if you ever want to come to Colorado, we'll be happy to have you.

I have fond memories of "local" Boulder climbers making my partner (found on the "looking for partners" board at Neptunes) cry when he struggled on the Green Spur.

My bet is most folks who live and climb in Moab aren't local, or, even native Utards.

NIMBY!

Cheers.

We have some pretty bad "secret" areas in Oregon, and now that Trout Creek has been outed I don't think there are many great ones left to hide.

Brian in SLC wrote: I have fond memories of "local" Boulder climbers making my partner (found on the "looking for partners" board at Neptunes) cry when he struggled on the Green Spur. My bet is most folks who live and climb in Moab aren't local, or, even native Utards. NIMBY! Cheers.

Point taken. I probably should have stayed out of this but i kind of felt like being a smart ass and I have nothing better to do this afternoon.

I feel for your friend; the green spur also shut me down on my first attempt back when...i aided through the crux and made such heinous rope drag the masses watching that day must have had a good laugh.

Moore's Wall NC has some amazing steep trad climbing. Everything there is vertical, heady, and groundup but surprisingly well protected compared to the usual north carolina scarefest. Another plus is that the full length pitches and lack of fixed anchors keeps the place from being overrun by gumbies.

Rumbling Bald in NC is another awesome place to get your crag on. Bomber granite is the medium for this NC backwater climbing area. Routes of all grades and lengths line the hillside whether you want crack slab or face

Rick Blair wrote: Too funny, I first went to Moab about 15 years ago and I have always wondered about this. If you went strictly by the license plates in town you would think you were in Colorado. 2 things I now know Moab residents don't like. 1. European tourists who don't tip. 2. People from the Front Range of Colorado.

Actually, most everyone in Colorado don't like people from Boulder. The worst thing you can tell your waiter in Colorado is "we're from Boulder". Your food will have dredlock juice squeezed straight into it. Delicious...

Hank Caylor wrote: Actually, most everyone in Colorado don't like people from Boulder. The worst thing you can tell your waiter in Colorado is "we're from Boulder". Your food will have dredlock juice squeezed straight into it. Delicious...

Being from AZ and having never been to Boulder, Hank why is that people feel that way about Boulderites? Help a desert rat to understand. Of course, we generally feel that way about Californians who move to AZ. They move here, say they hate our culture, then we tell 'em to take a hike and leave the state.

Brian in SLC wrote: When Lynn Hill was giving a slide show at the second Ogden Climbfest, she flashed up a photo of a crag (the horn) and there was this audible gasp that went through the crowd followed by quiet murmering.

Too funny! And all 1000 of the gaspers thought it was a "secret" crag - they must have doubly gasped at all the gasping. They would have lynched her but I don't think even Moabites can ban Lynn Hill... she is the alpha.

Being a Native born son of the great State of Texas, and a current resident of Boulder. I have double hatred working against me on most of the globe.

I have no further comments......

Hank Caylor wrote:Being a Native born son of the great State of Texas, and a current resident of Boulder. I have double hatred working against me on most of the globe. I have no further comments......

Well, I married a Texas gal, so I wouldn't diss you for being from Texas. Hell, I was originally from Buffalo NY (the 'arm pit' of the state.) I partied a lot in Houston although, I'm glad not to live there any more.

Tradster wrote: Well, I married a Texas gal, so I wouldn't diss you for being from Texas. Hell, I was originally from Buffalo NY (the 'arm pit' of the state.) I partied a lot in Houston although, I'm glad not to live there any more.

Actually, I think Staten Island is NY's armpit. Or Long Island's ballsack, whichever way you want to look at it.

Hank Caylor wrote: Actually, most everyone in Colorado don't like people from Boulder. The worst thing you can tell your waiter in Colorado is "we're from Boulder". Your food will have dredlock juice squeezed straight into it. Delicious...

Good stuff! If they have dread lock juice, wouldn't they be from Boulder as well? or do they also need a set of bongos? Why don't you tell them you are from "The People's Republic of Boulder?" You might get better service. Or say you are from Eldo.

There's all kinds of stuff spread all over Wyoming. But most of what's worth doing is already on here.

My friend John used to joke that there are ten lifetimes worth of climbing around Lander alone, the problem was schlepping the drill all the way out there, then convincing people that it was worth a longer walk than Sinks or Wild Iris. John's Tower out at Vedauwoo doesn't get enough love, I think.

Being one of those damn Coloradoans and having climbed all over the western US I would have to vote for Lincoln Lake outside of Fayetteville Arkansas. 30 foot routes with creeper vines and Copperheads above, dead bloated opossums floating in the lake below and neon orange, post-apocalyptic looking spiders on most of the holds, Lincoln is something right out of a dream. A Cormack McCarthy sort of dream.

Oh, wait. This is supposed to be a BEST crag list?

Well the opossums out of the bag...

Salmon river Falls, Altmar NY if ice is included in this list. Pretty sweet ice for an area of NY that is flatter than you know what.

Jay Knower wrote: Where is this "Boulder" place you speak of?

They are all over you can see them when you drive.. is this what we talking about?

Corey Flynn wrote:Moore's Wall NC has some amazing steep trad climbing. Everything there is vertical, heady, and groundup but surprisingly well protected compared to the usual north carolina scarefest. Another plus is that the full length pitches and lack of fixed anchors keeps the place from being overrun by gumbies. Rumbling Bald in NC is another awesome place to get your crag on. Bomber granite is the medium for this NC backwater climbing area. Routes of all grades and lengths line the hillside whether you want crack slab or face

NC has more undocumented, unscoped granite, by far than the areas listed in the handful of guides published throughout the year.

As was mentioned earlier, the deep South (TAG region) is not hurting for off the radar sandstone from boulders to multipitch at all grades and quality levels...

OK here's one. Snake Butte in Northern Montana. Located south of Harlem and the "HighLine" on the Fort Belknap Indian Reservation.

Climbed here maybe 10 years ago on the "High Plains Drifter" road trip. Hard granite columns reminiscent of Devils Tower. Setting is wild as hell. Views of Bear Paws Mts and the Little Rockies in the distance and Bison grazing on the prairie below. Lewis and Clark esque.

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