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Boissal .
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Jan 31, 2009
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Small Lake, UT
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 1,541
tenesmus wrote:and Dave Grahm walks up and and kindly says, "Wow Man, that's a lot of weight" Reading that over beer, Shaft and I concluded that you're a name dropping fan boy. Just saying.
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tenesmus
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Jan 31, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2004
· Points: 3,130
Boissal wrote: Reading that over beer, Shaft and I concluded that you're a name dropping fan boy. Just saying. ha ha! dude was making fun of me but at least he was nice about it! fan boy? that's really funny. mostly I thought it was funny how I was using half his body weight to unweight and he could probly add half and still do the lame workout I was doing.
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Peter Franzen
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Feb 18, 2009
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Phoenix, AZ
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 3,730
I'm a little late to this party, but here goes: I suck at pullups. I'm 6'2" and have a +3 ape index, so there's some serious leverage disadvantage with my long arms. That said, the best I ever accomplished was 15 from chin-over-the-bar down to elbows-straight-shoulders-touching-the-ears. I climb around V10, 5.13.
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Anonymous
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Feb 18, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
I started climbing a month ago and worked up to 5.11b. I'm only 15. I must say that technique is much more important than strength. I can do 20 pull-ups but none of that works if i toe off when I'm supposed to heel hook. Bottom line: be technical then be strong.
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Chris Plesko
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Feb 18, 2009
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Westminster, CO
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 485
My wife can't do a single pullup and my buddy could do 50 I bet, he's so freaking strong. They pretty much climb at the same level. I don't think pull ups matter too much but I still have fun doing them now and then. I could probably do 15 in one shot.
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Dusty
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Feb 18, 2009
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Fort Collins
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 210
Peter Franzen wrote:I suck at pullups. I'm 6'2" and have a +3 ape index, so there's some serious leverage disadvantage with my long arms. I hear ya. I'm 6'2" with a +5 ape index. I can max out at about 15 proper pull-ups on a good day. I can climb 5.12, V8.
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Dan Levison
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Feb 18, 2009
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2002
· Points: 475
30 pull-ups max; 1 one-arm pullup with left arm and right arm. Pullups don't really equate to climbing performance as much as one arm lock offs (or pullups) in my opinion.
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Mike Lane
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Feb 18, 2009
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
If you are able to pull off multiple one finger/one arm pull-ups with the ability to lock off high then you could campus Action Directe; but otherwise about as pertinent to climbing as your golf handicap is to playing softball.
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David Eisenstadt
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Feb 18, 2009
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orlando,florida
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 560
Hmmm, I'm 4'9", sending .12c (gym...) and a max of 12 pullups. I dont think the amount of pullups you can do is relevant to how hard you sport climb or boulder. (v6) sigh
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Kat A
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Feb 18, 2009
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 520
I can't do more than 10 standard pull-ups on a good day. But with some judicious footwork and incorporating core muscle strength, that number is much higher. :)
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Darren Mabe
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Feb 18, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
Adam Winters wrote:how many pull-ups try not counting, you work your muscles more that way.
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MarcRobinson
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Feb 28, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 10
Dusty Ross wrote: I hear ya. I'm 6'2" with a +5 ape index. I can max out at about 15 proper pull-ups on a good day. I can climb 5.12, V8. This is interesting, and makes sense, though I never thought about it. I'm 6'2" also, though my ape index is slightly negative. I don't have an excuse, I guess. I was always better at climbing than the number of my pullups would imply. I'm curious, because I didn't see any reference to Eldos (diagonal pullups, alternating right and left). That's what I do. Most days I can do 8. Some days I can do 10. Does anyone do these, or am I just a relic of the 1970s, when they were popular?
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wayne willoughby
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Feb 28, 2009
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SEATTLE
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 95
I do sets of 15 pull ups when incorporating them into my workout (I do lots of cross training). I've been doing 105 lately, most of those on rings, but at times have done as many as 360 3 days a week. The most I ever did in a row, 75. That was a long time ago.
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Lee Wilson
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Feb 28, 2009
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 5
I have a good friend who was in his early 50s at the time, not a climber, but always kept himself strong and in good shape. He, his wife, and I were walking one afternoon and there was a jungle gym by the sidewalk. I walked over to a bar and cranked off about 10 pull ups. My friend, who is stronger than I am but not a climber walks over, jumps up and grabs the bar and pulls...nothing happens! All the sudden he has this confused look on his face, he pulls again...nothing happens. The look of confusion turns to horror. It had probably been 10 or more years since he had even tried to do a pull up, but he figured there was no way that he wouldn't be able to do one. He was wrong. However he worked on them and within a few months, he could crank out about 5. Pull ups are fairly specific and don't translate too well to much else, but they sure are a good way to burn off your buddies and have some youthful fun! I did find that "frenchies" and "interval pulls" as Horst describes them were pretty good for building endurance.
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Dusty
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Feb 28, 2009
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Fort Collins
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 210
wayne willoughby wrote:I do sets of 15 pull ups when incorporating them into my workout (I do lots of cross training). I've been doing 105 lately, most of those on rings, but at times have done as many as 360 3 days a week. The most I ever did in a row, 75. That was a long time ago. Don't ask this guy how many situps he can do! (he'll crank out a couple thousand during a Laker's game). Wayne, what's up, brother? I've been meaning to call you. Our lives got busy!
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MarcRobinson
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Feb 28, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 10
Lee Wilson wrote: I did find that "frenchies" and "interval pulls" as Horst describes them were pretty good for building endurance. I can't find a description of these anywhere. I'd like to at least try them. Can you briefly tell me how they're done? I'm also planning on asymmetrical pullups -- one arm up, one out at an angle. Has anyone tried these? If so, have you found them useful? (I admit that pullups probably don't carry over well to the cliffs, but I'm hoping that these might be more realistic.)
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Lee Wilson
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Feb 28, 2009
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 5
MarcRobinson wrote: I can't find a description of these anywhere. I'd like to at least try them. Can you briefly tell me how they're done? I'm also planning on asymmetrical pullups -- one arm up, one out at an angle. Has anyone tried these? If so, have you found them useful? (I admit that pullups probably don't carry over well to the cliffs, but I'm hoping that these might be more realistic.) I don't have the book anymore, so I'm not sure if this is exactly how he said to do them, but this is what I would do. Frenchies: Start from a hang and pull up completely and lock off for a count of 5 (or whatever you need to get a good burn), then lower all the way down. Now pull up again and lower 45deg and lock off for 5 sec. Then lower all the way down. Then pull up and lower down to 90deg and lock off for 5 sec and lower down. Pull up and lower down to 120deg and lock off for 5 sec and lower down. And finish it off with one complete pull up. That is 1 frenchie. A handful of those with 5 - 10 sec lock offs will be sure to get your arms shaking. Interval Pull Ups: Depending on how good you are with pull ups pick a number around 4. Start a stop watch and do 4 pull ups. Rest until it hits 1 minute, then do 4 more, then rest until it hits 2 min, then do 4 more, etc. Do this until you can't do the 4 pull ups or you hit 20 minutes. If you hit 20 minutes and are still able to do the 4 pull ups, next time up the number, if you didn't make it to 20, knock it down a few. The first 5 - 10 minutes are pretty easy, the last 5 get pretty rough when you're pushing it. Enjoy!
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suprasoup
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Mar 20, 2009
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Rio Rancho, NM
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 580
Mike Lane wrote:If you are able to pull off multiple one finger/one arm pull-ups with the ability to lock off high then you could campus Action Directe; but otherwise about as pertinent to climbing as your golf handicap is to playing softball. I dunno...having the ability to lockoff with one arm has saved my bacon on numerous occasions. Guess it's because I like playing the short man card. Never was a big fan of deadpointing to nasty little crimps or monos when I could just lockoff and hit it static. Most consecutive pullups was 57 (gets kinda dull after 30) a week or so ago. 4-6 consecutive one arms either arm. I've bouldered in the 11s and onsighted 5.13s
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Mike Lane
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Mar 20, 2009
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
Sounds like you are proving my point but disagreeing with what I said. However, Action Directe was probably not the best example due to all the deadpoints.
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pfwein Weinberg
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Mar 20, 2009
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Boulder, CO
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 71
Mike Lane wrote:Sounds like you are proving my point but disagreeing with what I said. However, Action Directe was probably not the best example due to all the deadpoints. So someone may be able to send Action Direct (or some other similarly hard route, if AD is not the best example), but his/her ability to do so is generally unrelated to hard climbing? Hunh?
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