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AMGA/ Institutional anchors

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,850

Does anyone know if there is some sort of literature out there that outlines the technical skills and anchors taught by the AMGA?

Mark Cushman · · Cumming, GA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 975

The AMGA sells their course manuals:

amga.com/merchandise/

They show most of them out of stock, but you could call the office to see when they would be getting more in.

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

Will,

You might want to pick up a copy of the Technical Handbook from Canada. It's the one that all others are pretty much based from. It will not cover exactly what you're looking for but its the bible and has been shared between many of the IFMGA/UIAGM member countries.

In particular the risk managment and soft skill section is worth well more than the price alone.

acmg.ca/03public/about/publ…

Technical Handbook for Professional Mountain Guides
Alpine, Rock, and Ski Guiding Techniques
This manual encompasses the entire set of skills and techniques used by professional guides. In addition it contains extensive discussions of "soft" skills such as client care, risk management, and mountain sense-much more difficult to describe but as important as technical knowledge.

The manual is designed for use as a text for candidates enrolled in guide training and certification courses and as a reference work for active professionals. However, it is also popular in the public realm where experienced recreational climbers and skiers, amateur leaders, and educators find it useful.

This manual is not a "how to" book. It is not a set of standards or "rules." It provides guidelines that, when combined with technical training, judgment, and experience form a framework within which risk can be managed and reasonable decisions can be made. It is designed to be augmented by training and certification in guiding techniques.

Prices:
For members - $25.00
Non-members - $50.00
Plus Shipping and Handling

If you're heading down the guiding road, have a great trip. I did it for almost 20 years and had a blast.

percious · · Bear Creek, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,190

Here is also a pdf from UIMGA certified guide Marc Chauvin which outlines some excellent techniques. Marc teaches AMGA courses.

chauvinguides.com/Anchoring…

-chris

Jason D. Martin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 847

You can download the Single Pitch Instructor Manual from our webpage at:

aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/

You'll have to scroll down a bit to find it. But these are the anchors that are taught in the SPI Course.

Jason

epoch · · Maine · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

A good source of literature that the AMGA references is Mountaineers: Freedom of The Hills.

While it may not directly discuss the vast topic of anchoring, it does go into the fundamentals of anchors, which is the individual placements. From there I'd recommend picking up John Longs Anchors. After reading both of these, you should be on your way to making sound anchors.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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