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Shawn Mitchell
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Aug 5, 2008
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Broomfield
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 250
Any route that makes me fall once or twice is a three star route to me :)
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Joe Auer
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Aug 5, 2008
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State Of Deseret
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 375
I've learned to keep my opinion to myself when it comes to bombing popular routes in the database on this site. I learned as much when I posted my opinion of Supercrack of the Desert. People got all butthurt by my opinion, one spelling-challenged Coloradian even launched into a personal attack, saying I didn't like it because got "worked" by the route and that I was a "looser", despite the fact that I onsighted it over ten years ago with a broken finger. I still think most of the routes at SuperButt are played out, oversprayed, chalk-slimed and inferior compared to routes in other areas of the Creek, but I'll refrain from the one-stars/bombs from here on out. Kor-Ingalls is three-stars compared to being at work or cleaning out the garage.
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Mike
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Aug 5, 2008
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Phoenix
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 2,615
Joe A wrote: ... Kor-Ingalls is three-stars compared to being at work or cleaning out the garage. What route isn't?
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N. Pyle
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Aug 5, 2008
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Newark, DE
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 15
Drunkards Delight at the gunks. Worst moderate 3 star climb in my book.
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Jaaron Mankins
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Aug 5, 2008
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Durango, CO
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 930
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Sirius
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Aug 5, 2008
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Oakland, CA
· Joined Nov 2003
· Points: 660
Fat Dad, I completely get what you mean but still think that Reed's is a wonderful climb. Something like Outer Limits, which is hand jamming for people who know how to hand jam, is probably better, but Reed's p2 is an all time, dick wrenching classic, to use the valley slang. Agree with Royal Arches. Agree w/ East Butt of Middle. Double Cross at JT. Traveler's Buttress and The Line at Lover's Leap are both a bit overrated, I think. Ah who am I kidding, I love every climb I do as if it were my own child. One under appreciated line on the Front Range is The Martyr - that climb gets better every time you do it.
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Mikeco
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Aug 6, 2008
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Highlands Ranch CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 0
J. MAN wrote:Avacado Gully. You mean the ice climb? If so, then I agree with this wholeheartedly.
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Aaron S
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Aug 6, 2008
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 150
Well the top two I were thinking of have already been mentioned, Prince of Darkness and Reed's Direct. Fat Dad is probably right that 99% of people here will praise Reed's but I know a few other Valley climbers that don't particularly enjoy climbing it. I'll throw Cat in the Hat on here. 6 pitches long and only one is notably good. The insane crowds don't help either.
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jon vandub
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Aug 6, 2008
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westminster,co
· Joined Feb 2007
· Points: 0
JAM CRACK in the valley....goodx,but v ery painful for me.
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David Stowe
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Aug 6, 2008
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 65
There are a bunch of routes in the Gunks that get three stars that are just not that good while there are many others that are not popular that are fantastic. A few such 3 star dogs are: Eastertime Too Shockleys Ceiling(I'm sure some will disagree, but this is just not that great a climb) Something Interesting(just not all that interesting)
How about Prince of Darkness in Red Rocks. While it is on a great wall in a great setting every other route that I have done on the Velvet wall is better than POD. Plus it is a sport climber magnet.
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Fat Dad
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Aug 6, 2008
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 60
jon vandub wrote:JAM CRACK in the valley....goodx,but v ery painful for me. Really? I find that a really clean, straight-in crack. As fun as it is though, IMHO I don't think it quite warrants three stars, so I guess it's moot.
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Sirius
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Aug 6, 2008
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Oakland, CA
· Joined Nov 2003
· Points: 660
Agree with Jamcrack. But that's no classic in anyone's book, is it? What about the Freeblast? Nope, true classic. South Crack on Stately Pleasure. But that setting is so good. Reg Route on Fairview. But everything in Tuolumne is good, how can it be called overrated. I give up.
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Michael Sokoloff
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Aug 7, 2008
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Spokane, WA
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 35
I disagree with the negative assessment of Reed's Direct. Great jams, great pro, length, perfect rock. I guess if you don't like steep handjamming then Reed's is not for you. Lynch me but I think the Grand Wall in Squamish does not live up to the hype. The slabby approach pitches I found tedious and nothing close to classic. The corner handcrack and the sword were awesome, but the remainder of the route was quite ordinary. The bolted leaning OW was no fun at all even though it was not very difficult. Freeway was much higher quality and more sustained with very few crap pitches. I agree with DNB being overrated. Great formation, great accomplishment but the climbing was just okay. Northeast But on Higher was absolutely classic however. I've done DNB once but NE But 4 times now.
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Fat Dad
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Aug 7, 2008
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 60
Michael Sokoloff wrote:I disagree with the negative assessment of Reed's Direct. Great jams, great pro, length, perfect rock. I guess if you don't like steep handjamming then Reed's is not for you. I LOVE steep handjamming, just not a crack that chomps on your hands. In all other respects, I think it has great position and rock, just the crack is painful. P.S. Taping is aid.
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