.

S. Gileadi wrote:it seems rather selfish to demand that other people act differently for the sake of your own convenience.

your right selfish. Its also selfish to ask people not to pee in our crags? or to have them pick up thier trash? or to have them not ram bolts next to perfect cracks? it has nothing to do with convienience BUD.

p.s. S Gileadi- Thanks for the tick suggesstion. i bet it will come in useful soon.

john richards wrote: your right selfish. Its also selfish to ask people not to pee in our crags? or to have them pick up thier trash? or to have them not ram bolts next to perfect cracks? it has nothing to do with convienience BUD.

Fine. Could you please keep your radios turned off when other people are around so as not to annoy? Thanks, we do appreciate it! ;)

John,
You are right. I will go buy some motorolla xoxoxoxo radios so you can have the canyons to yourself. Please PM me with any where you may be climbing so I can make a point to avoid that area in case the batteries to my radio are not charged.

Happy sending in peace!

ps. what happened to the title of this thread??

just saw that this is your first season leading trad in another post. this explains everything about this thread...

OMG SAL -- Now you've gone and done it... John's headed off into the Winds...!!!!!

Gaads *LOOKOUT CLIMBERS* of Wyoming...
better have yer radios ready and Don't YELL or CALL OUT otherwise who knows what could happen to ya'll out there ~ ~ ~

Andrew Gram wrote:just saw that this is your first season leading trad in another post. this explains everything about this thread...

no kidding. what a baby.

While rapping in Eldo a couple years ago, I saw two climbing parties. One of the parties was still climbing and the other party was finished with the pitch. One of them yelled OFF BELAY and the other party took his leader, while still leading Vertigo OFF BELAY. Total miscommunication. Calmly explaining to these guys what was up was very lucky for all. At least in crowded areas, ya know, where the river is super loud or there are so many folks climbing everywhere, communication is key. However you choose to make it happen, radios, rope tugs, Yoda like Jedi mind skills or whatever. My one cent.

Hank Caylor wrote:While rapping in Eldo a couple years ago, I saw two climbing parties. One of the parties was still climbing and the other party was finished with the pitch. One of them yelled OFF BELAY and the other party took his leader, while still leading Vertigo OFF BELAY. Total miscommunication. Calmly explaining to these guys what was up was very lucky for all. At least in crowded areas, ya know, where the river is super loud or there are so many folks climbing everywhere, communication is key. However you choose to make it happen, radios, rope tugs, Yoda like Jedi mind skills or whatever. My one cent.

I had a bad experiance with not being able to hear on the bastille crack once. I went up and over pitch 3/4 and continued to set a belay just short of the summit. I made my belay and my parter top of pitch 2 could not hear me. I screamed 4 or 5 times and everyone on wind tower could hear me :) but not my partner. Long story short. I ended up single line rappelling on the remaining slack in the rope and getting close enough to give him the scoop with out screaming for hours on in. He was a farley new climber so the rope tug and all that was not working. Sometimes that river and wind in there can roar pretty loud. be sure you have some back up plans and skills for such a situation. Otherwise a whole lot of time to sit :)

Hank. That is one scary story :)
I also like to practice using nicknames or handles so you know that it is your partner talking and not the party below,above or beside you.
That could be a bad thing.

Dude, John, don't listen to these guys. I know how you feel about solitude, and I have the perfect solution for you.

Come bouldering with me in LCC. Sure, I know what you're thinking. "But it's bouldering, and that's all uncool and shit, and when you fall you hit the ground, and that's scary, and anyway boulderers are loud, obnoxious, brash, "sweet brah" screamin, pot smokin, beer drinkin bastards."

Well, all of that is true. But trust me; despite the occasional possee in the Secret Garden, if you come bouldering with me, I can guarantee at least 100 days of climbing a year without seeing anyone but the same 5 or so people. And even then, only occasionally.

Warning though, not only do I smoke, but I smoke a pipe. Way more pungent. I also drink beer and curse loudly. But hey, you could find these secluded spots where nobody climbs, and then spend all your time there without me.

Let me know when you want to go climb. I promise you won't ever hear the words "Off Belay".

Don't know why the original message got taken out; discussing partner communication safety and/or the topic of general noise; both topics are worthy discussion.

That situation Hank brought up still happens a lot; as does the topic that John originally brought up; however maybe the focus on discussing belay commands was a mistake in relation to a wilderness experience.

I hate to see leaders get taken off belay when they don't expect it; you just get a sinking feeling in your gut when you see it happen. But I also like to get out enjoy the backcountry in relative solitude as much as I can.

sevrdhed wrote:Dude, Warning though, not only do I smoke, but I smoke a pipe. Way more pungent. I also drink beer and curse loudly. But hey, you could find these secluded spots where nobody climbs, and then spend all your time there without me. Let me know when you want to go climb. I promise you won't ever hear the words "Off Belay".

Classic.

John,
I really admire the fact that you took time out of your day to PM me
"your a douche"

That made my day.How many people actually do that. Just kids that are 20 I guess. It is funny how you asked for feedback and when you get it you tuck your tail and run. Sinking to the level of childish myspace IM's and insults rather then standing on your own two legs in front of the community. Judging by the fact you removed your OP and the forum title you are in fact are the douche on this one and I am sure you'll catch it in the ass from another climber or tick sooner or later.

Phillip Morris wrote: I really can't think of anything better then after a day of cragging, enjoying a smoke in the setting sun and recounting the day's adventure. It warms the cockles of my soul that this pisses you off.

Speaking of douche. . .

You think anyone gives a shit about what warms your cockless soul? Eh? If you read my post you'll see that I wasn't talking about post climbing. I do much of the same as you do after climbing. It's dealing with the noise while I'm climbing that is nauseating. Most would agree. So the point is. . .you have no point. .. and no cock.

Oh, you said cockles. . .not cockless. My bad. Maybe.

People climb outside. People yell. Put them together and you have a popular crag. Suck it up and learn to climb harder so you don't have to be where are the gumbies are. Radios? WTF. This is rock climbing, if you can't hack it I hear knitting is quiet.

Woah, pretty aggressive bunch on MP today...
If you want to haul a radio on your pitch and go all stealth, by all means do so. If the occasional sound in the canyon makes you go apeshit, find a more secluded route. Dogwood will always be crowded but I'm sure Cesar's Palace is quiet. Now if people sitting at the base are overly loud and blow smoke in your face when you're racking up, tell them to kindly STFU or stone them.

I'd hate to trade a bunch of people braying "off belay bro" a couple of times an hour for a horde of tools with bluetooth headsets and radios.
Go practice your rope tugs and be safe.

this is crazy!

we have 3 pages of people arguing about yelling and radios and who's a douche, and how old you have to be to call someone a douche, and i can't get but a couple of replys to my request for boulder area "road to astroman" progression list. i've also asked for a desert tower progression list too.

aren't routes more interesting to discuss than talking down to john?

and john, if you're still out there, i still stand by my comment that i also do not like all the over excessive communication.

come on hardmen, help out a gumbie and let me know what you think:

mountainproject.com/v/color…

PS. hey, how do i turn the above into a one word link, anyways?

thanks! - S

Steve Kahn wrote:PS. hey, how do i turn the above into a one word link, anyways? thanks!

Steve, click on the, + TEXT FORMATTING FEATURES (under the edit window -subtitled "Links")

If I try to show you the code here it all disappears... send me a pm if you want more.

Steve's Link

Boissal wrote:Woah, pretty aggressive bunch on MP today... If you want to haul a radio on your pitch and go all stealth, by all means do so. If the occasional sound in the canyon makes you go apeshit, find a more secluded route. Dogwood will always be crowded but I'm sure Cesar's Palace is quiet. Now if people sitting at the base are overly loud and blow smoke in your face when you're racking up, tell them to kindly STFU or stone them. I'd hate to trade a bunch of people braying "off belay bro" a couple of times an hour for a horde of tools with bluetooth headsets and radios. Go practice your rope tugs and be safe.

Yeah, there were a couple of suggestions for him to find some more solitary crags. Thing is about those crags is that they are a lot of fun anyway, right? So I don't think that suggestion is insulting at all, and John, I hope you don't take it that way. There are many solitary gems here in the Wasatch, seriously, and to be honest, if you don't like the experience of having to share the popular crags with annoying and loud people that is perfectly understandable.

By the way, If I'm smoking at the base of the crag and you're around, don't worry, I'll share!

This thread is great. I just wish the guy who has been climbing for one season and knows everything about climbing communication hadn't run off to the Winds. I could really use some more of his advice for my upcoming trip up the Captain.

--Marc