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Dry Tooling at the sport park

Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

forgive me for the rant yesterday morning, was still working on my first cup of Joe.
so barking dogs and people smoking(whatever there choice is) doesn't make an impact? observations I made as I was belaying. dog shit on trail, cig butts and used tape at the base of the climbs. Ultimately these things are making an impact, whether it be physical or not it is effecting someone else and their experience. So are we talking out of both sides of our mouth when we say drytooling destroys rock. I'm sure we all have stood under IHC in the desert and noticed the impact of us climbing there.This doesn't stop me from going to the desert to climb. Last season when I went to Cody to climb I noticed a ton of tattered webbing in the drainages on the approaches. So when we ran into Aaron at his shop we had some dialog about the tattered shit. he told me they collected a trash bag full of this webbing in one season. on one of the classic routes in the south fork he had put in some chain anchors to rap from and someone had chopped them. not once but numerous times this has occurred.
Again, I like all aspects of climbing. but does it make it right for someone to start singling out a group saying it is bad for the rock and the environment. and designating a specific crag for one type of climbing??? sounds like segregation to me.

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620
kevin fox wrote:for give me for the rant yesterday morning, was still working on my first cup of Joe. so barking dogs and people smoking(whatever there choice is) doesn't make an impact? observations I made as I was belaying. dog shit on trail, cig butts and used tape at the base of the climbs. Ultimately these things are making an impact, whether it be physical or not it is effecting someone else and their experience. So are we talking out of both sides of our mouth when we say drytooling destroys rock. I'm sure we all have stood under IHC in the desert and noticed the impact of us climbing there.This doesn't stop me from going to the desert to climb. Last season when I went to Cody to climb I noticed a ton of tattered webbing in the drainages on the approaches. So when we ran into Aaron at his shop we had some dialog about the tattered shit. he told me they collected a trash bag full of this webbing in one season. on one of the classic routes in the south fork he had put in some chain anchors to rap from and someone had chopped them. not once but numerous times this has occurred. Again, I like all aspects of climbing. but does it make it right for someone to start singling out a group saying it is bad for the rock and the environment. and designating a specific crag for one type of climbing??? sounds like segregation to me.

I think the discussion unanimously came around the the idea that dry-tooling, if it changes the technical nature of established routes, isn't in the best interest of anyone. At least thats how I have read the forum.

As for dog shit, it is easily retrieved, unlike tool gouges. And noise? Lets be real, Kevin. If you want quiet, go to Cirque of The Unclimbables, but don't be surprised to find yelping foxes and animal feces.

Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

well I guess we can agree to disagree. I truly don't know if it is unanimous. that means we would all be in agreement right??

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Michal Turczyk wrote:Guess what? The rock we climb is still going to be here for millions of years after we are gone. Overall, wind and rain do as much if not more "environmental damage" to the rock than we do. I say climb the damned thing. ....

If only climbers would actually use this common sense instead of flipping out in the public eye about how Dean Potter looks on a rock.

SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 785

So if the rock is "assumed" to be here in a million years for my descendents can climb it then should we as a community disregard any sort of ethics to preserve that? It just seemed like a pretty loose statment that may imply that ethics and preservation may be just a waste of YOUR time. meaning you wont have to worry about it or have to look at the change that has taken place over the years. Probably not the best attitude but I will try not to take your post out of context.

I started this thread to get the vibes of those mainly in my area that climb there and feel out the openess of the community towards dry tooling. I got all the info I needed and made the choice to not train up there out of respect for those who fear for the impact it would have on the rock itself. Not so I didnt piss of the guy with the barking dog smoking a bowl at the base of a route surrounded by his bloody tape and bath of cigg butts :)
I think it is our job to keep places even like the SP cared for so it sets an example for those places that truely are delicate like Arches NP so they make it another million years.
I am sure the over use of chalk, traditional protection and sticky rubber shoes does far greater impact then the wind and rain.
Those are natural changes. Same ones that made alot of our climbable rocks climbable. Let them take there course but dont compare them to the impact that the ego-man has. Two whole different worlds.

jack roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 0

Sal,

I'd say this thread is pretty much dead. You and I should go look for a crag to practice tooling on while these other people with an attitude can go play Halo or go club baby seals........doesn't matter to me so long as they are far, far away.

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620
jack roberts wrote:I'd say this thread is pretty much dead.

Agreed.

SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 785

Yup Yup.
Dead in deed. when the halo 3 posts out weigh the original matter at hand its time to go:) My next thread might be...
Does an XBOX 360 spin when you sit on it. Jack shoot me an email and well head out stake our new claim.

Jason- There are no regulations to be in our cool club :) Come on out!!

Cheers and thanks to all those who submitted mostly usefull thoughts on this thread.
NOW GO HAVE SOME FUN!!!

Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35

Dead?

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,230

I think you should not listen to all the haters and do what your heart tells you. Drytool the shit out of that chiseled up rock! Send the gnar!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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