FCJohn
·
Aug 21, 2007
·
Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 802
Looking for some beta on Bishop Jaggers at the Platte.
From the guidebook, it looks like you can bypass/substitute the first pitch of Bishop Jaggers by climbing P1 of Fuzzy Thinking(10a) and leave the gear on ground and climb every pitch on bolts and draws. In other words, do you need gear for pitches 2,3,4 of Bishop, or can it be protected with draws alone.
I'd recommend a light rack from small nuts/cams up to #3 camalot or so. The second pitch takes a couple small pieces of gear at the roof and traverse. I think some gear on the third pitch is nice as well. Additionally, if you want to finish the route to the top, a couple of hand-sized pieces are nice. Otherwise, just take small gear and rap off left after 3 pitches (two ropes or a 70m). Killer route, It'll probly be real hot up there. Mike
I don't think you will be climbing pitch 2 without gear, it's scary even with gear. Personally I would bring stoppers and a few tcu's to a #2 camelot and start with the crack, which is the easiest part of Bishops Jaggers anyways.
Climb the original route(which requires gear) and don't miss the crack at the top. The first pitch is easy, yet fun. Should be very safe due to recent re-bolting but don't turn it into a sport climb(give it the respect it deserves). Combine the first two pitches. Light rack from stoppers to #3 camalot(or #3.5, it's been about 5+ years for me).
I must agree that the original route is worthy. Take wires for sure, the pitch above the roof requires gear, and like Mike says, if you want to top-out, take a couple of bigger pieces. If you want to do a draws-only route, Topo Oceans is very worthy.