Intensive Care

I'm not sure if the topo in the Ruckman's Wasatch guide is inaccurate or if somebody has been up to no good but it seems that "Intensive Care" has sprouted some new bolts. There were four bolts on the first pitch and five on the second but the topo shows three for the first and four for the second. One was placed four feet from a chicken head tie-off that you could belay off of, granted four feet can seem like a hundred in the middle of a difficult slab pitch. I'm not sure if these bolts were added later or if the topo is wrong but I will say that it is important to respect the history of little cottonwood. I love little cottonwood and feel that it is important for climbers to have routes to aspire to, I feel that is important to have the opportunity to climb a route in the style of the first ascent , what better way to pay homage to the climbers of the past than rise to the challenge they have given us? left alone these climbs are timeless tests for future generations of our own. Although the climbing was and will always be beautiful and involving, I couldn't help but feel slightly cheated at the end of the experience. I personally have had a desire to climb "intensive Care" since I first read about it in the wasatch climbing guide...

"The slab supreme. to imagine climbing such a smooth swathe requires audacity, which is just what it took for two young climbers to make the first ascent. Twenty years later, an ascent of intensive care is still a feather in ones cap, and only the bold masters of slab technique venture up to this wall. If you want to friction amid a sea of rock,drop anchor here."

What climber wouldn't want to challenge himself with such an opportunity for learning? The value of such tests of metal fortitude have fallen out of fashion as of late and some would say "If you don't want to clip the added bolts then skip 'em." But that misses the point entirely. When I read about a challenging route I feel I should be able to try and climb it twenty or forty years later and hopefully get a taste of the adventure that has become a part of LCC's climbing lore. I'll finish this post with a quote from a man whom I respect and admire... "STYLE MATTERS"

So, chop it!

Ian:

The Ruckman topo is correct, I think.

bsmoot wrote:Ian: The Ruckman topo is correct.

Brian, you think Kim or someone with Kim's permission added bolts to this route? I seem to recall Kim saying he was okay with someone adding a bolt to Dorsal Fin's last pitch (or some such).

Best to ask around before the bolt chopping police wade in...

It's official... SLC is the new Boulder.

Brian in SLC wrote: Brian, you think Kim or someone with Kim's permission added bolts to this route? I seem to recall Kim saying he was okay with someone adding a bolt to Dorsal Fin's last pitch (or some such). Best to ask around before the bolt chopping police wade in...

Brian: I think you meant Dark Horse, not the Dorsal Fin. Knowing both members of the FA party, I think they would not want any additional bolts added...Too many long falls and blood were spent on that route. Very historical.

bsmoot wrote: Brian: I think you meant Dark Horse, not the Dorsal Fin. Knowing both members of the FA party, I think they would not want any additional bolts added...Too many long falls and blood were spent on that route. Very historical.

Ahh, you're correct.

You asked RKM if he minded if a bolt was added...to which his response was...

"I would not care if someone added a bolt on that last pitch of Dark Horse. It would make the route even better and more popular - without the chance of a death fall. My guess would be that most parties go left and join the Fin Arete now."

Puts an interesting spin on the bolt thing, though, don't it? I mean, really, in Wasatch climbing history, you don't get more bold than RKM.

Brad, we don't nearly rise to the level of Boulder on this stuff. We actually all get along pretty well.

-Brian in SLC

Nice first post - and nice onsite of a fantastic route right after sending the Dorsal Fin. Your slabmaster card has now been activated.

I'm sorry Intensive Care got changed. I'm more willing to climb it now becuse I'm a total wuss but you are 100% correct about the need to keep it like they did it. Can you imagine how wrecked those guys got putting that thing up?

But I like what Brian said about contacting those guys before you did anything. Also, if you do decide to change anything please be sure you go with someone like one of the Brians or James who can patch it up right.

The longest slab fall I've ever taken was on Intensive Care, my EB's just wouldn't friction well. A hold broke and I was off and away, burning flesh and rubber!

Just talked to Kim, he said:

I suggested a new bolt on Dark Horse because the chickenhead we originally
tied off got pulled off on a later ascent (by me). So now, there is no
protection where their originally was protection.

Also, I was sad to hear that about Intensive Care. I believe the bolts
should be taken out. I had nothing to do with it and would never give
permission to change that route. Climbers should rise to the challenge!

Not everything in life should be safe and without risk. Some things we
should aspire too - just like Ian wrote about. Good for him.

Miller

Perhaps Mr.Miller could supply some info concerning the added bolts, Or someone who climbed the route in its original form. Where were the most substantial spaces between pro? If the route is to be restored (as it should be) it should be done properly by a qualified individual, not somebody making assumptions about the original gear.

"Not everything in life should be safe and without risk. Some things we
should aspire too"

Words to live by.

Brad Brandewie wrote:It's official... SLC is the new Boulder.

At least, in Boulder, you can still expect routes to be essentially in the same condition as the first ascentionists left them. So many climbers disdain the idea of rules, but, without them, we end up with otherwise beautiful walls becoming bolted gymnasiums or worse - restricted by government agencies and land owners.

This isn't the esoteric recreation that it once was. We are rapidly running out of developable real estate, so finding workable ways to manage the development and preservation of these walls has become essential.

I did intensive care about two years ago and found starting the first pitch to be the most intimidating part of the climb. If that has been retro-bolted then it is no longer the same experience. The long run-out took my breath away or maybe it was that it was 40 degrees and cloudy. I had done every other slab route in the canyon (never have lead dark horse and probably never will) and it still took 20 years of climbing in LCC to get the canasta's to do it. I am just glad I got to feel a small % of the exhilaration of the first ascent party. I feel sorry for future ascentionists who will miss out on creating a bond of respect and community with the first ascent party that is lost when routes are altered. I am sooooo glad that I had to do equipment overhang left side, bungle, and unnamed other climbs before all the mutton heads showed up and changed them. Hell yea I was scared. I took long falls on some and others I thought about for years before even trying. The reason some of us are so passionate about leaving things the same is that we truly think people are being cheated out of potential life defining events. I guess I am trying to say it is about the journey not the destination.

"And that is all I have to say about that".
Forest Gump

Ken Cangi wrote: At least, in Boulder, you can still expect routes to be essentially in the same condition as the first ascentionists left them. So many climbers disdain the idea of rules, but, without them, we end up with otherwise beautiful walls becoming bolted gymnasiums or worse - restricted by government agencies and land owners. This isn't the esoteric recreation that it once was. We are rapidly running out of developable real estate, so finding workable ways to manage the development and preservation of these walls has become essential.

boulder sucks, I hate to tell you but the truth hurts sometimes. I thought we had too many beanie wearin subaru wagon drivers in SLC until I went to boulder, then I knew we were in the REI catalog for sure.

sorry but I havent run out of scary shit to do in LCC. not even close. not even close to close to close. no GOVT anything here except a ticket for drinking too many brews(or spanning a rope bridge) on the way home if that counts.

Here is a serious question for some of the suicidal FAs, if someone added a bolt to something you did 20 years ago in your prime when you didnt mind risking your life to be a tough guy and you were doing it now, would you clip it or pass it and risk a serious fall with your 8 year old daughter watching from below?

I'm not the type to alter ANYONES route so save the bashing for that "guy" we all know. I just want to know why so many people think that just because the FA did a 100' slab with 2 bolts on LSD in the 60s that everyone else in the future should do the same? Is it like pissing on a bush and calling it yours forever? I think dogs fight over that kind of shit but humans? I'm in the mindset to just pass the new bolt and forget about it being there myself. saves much trouble.

Mobley,

I'm not going to bother arguing the merits of Boulder with you; chewing on barbed wire would be more productive. Your pissing-on-the-bush analogy demonstrates that your arrogance far surpasses your ability to understand the pragmatic reasons for preserving the nature of established routes.

It's sad to see that even the most well meaning posts devolve into mindless banter concerning the climbing "scene". Please stop the immaturity

Mobley, et.al.,
You have some good points. But...their always is a "but" isn't there? I don't know anyone who could pass up the bolt. I know I couldn't in otherwise really run out high end slab climbing situations.

The last time I did Intensive Care, I was a new ICU Nurse and I was ecstatic after reaching every 1/4"er I could slap myself up to. It was as if I held a private little celebration party at every clip. I had just discarded my EBs and was climbing in Fires (and I had always wanted to do the climb)...despite an aching guilt I kept to myself that I had somehow "cheated", I was high for a week. While climbing it, I never really thought I would end up being treated by my colleagues in the ICU. It would have been humiliating for sure, I probably would have thought at the time. I just honestly didn't think it was "that dangerous". I have come to believe it is rarely as bad as "they say it is". For the guys drilling on the lead it WAS a bigger deal than me just making it to the bolts.

I also believe the bolt should be removed, not to make it more dangerous than at the present, but perhaps to discourage the precedental nature of the action of placing it there.

If and when the bolt is removed, it should be announced to the climbing community openly, for I know first hand the horror of going up on a climb and not finding it the way I expected to find it (ie, bolts or other fixed gear had been removed...Pan Am Wall in Mexico and Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks to name just two that I backed off of and then had to return with the proper gear which allowed me to do it later). And yea, nailing gear...which adds other arguments to the controversy. Neither of which have exactly casual approaches, incidentally.

In the same light, if a bolt gets added to Dark Horse, Kim should be the one to do it...for he should have the exact say as to where it will go. He still climbs alot so I don't see that he being almost as old as me as any deterrence!!! I will admit I have personally done some serious air time on that climb and I will be the first in line to do it if he adds another one...but, neither I nor Chippy (God forbid) nor anyone else for that matter has the right nor the knowledge to put it in.

Recently, I climbed Final Link...a Smoot classic. I had previously admitted to installing the relatively unobtrusive (so I thought...I also lugged up all the chain) mid pitch rappel station with the feeling that it didn't change the nature of the climb. It allowed a mindless abseil descent of the whole wall with a single 60m rope. Though initially thinking the station removal a stupid act, I was wrong. Whoever did it, did a good job. They removed the original bolt and left the 3/8" x 4" bolt that I had placed years ago. The patch job looked good. I personally had no reservations of rappelling off that single bolt because I know who placed it....others may not feel so cavalier lowering off of one bolt (anywhere!! as they should). Therein lies the risk to the many minimalist minded climbers who frequently run up this cruiser climb with their 60m rope after work expecting to do the car to car thing in short order. It's the perfect quick fix that offers light rack multi-pitch slab, OW, hand and finger cracks, roofs...the full meal deal in cruise control mode. I for one have always thought the walk off was loose, longer, and not all that laid back.

But anyway, I hope this answers your concerns about changing what you perceive to be some 20yo acid heads death pitch creation. Their are lots of climbs, unfortunately maybe, that I just have to walk past if I don't like how they protect.

(Snipped questions from Mobely)
1) no GOVT anything here except a ticket for drinking too many brews(or spanning a rope bridge) on the way home if that counts.
2) ...if someone added a bolt to something you did 20 years ago in your prime when you didnt mind risking your life to be a tough guy and you were doing it now, would you clip it or pass it and risk a serious fall with your 8 year old daughter watching from below?
3) Is it like pissing on a bush and calling it yours forever? I think dogs fight over that kind of shit but humans?

1) Are you saying you are a drunk driver or were one? What a shame? Well, it takes a big man to admit that kind of history if that is what you are doing.

2) Eazy answer! I wouldn't start climbing a dangerous route in front of my kid.

3) The second dog that pisses on an already pissed-on bush is just as dumb as the first dog who did it. It's more arrogant to change an existing route against a standard than put a new one up.

I think that if you want to place bolts it should be on your own route(s)not on someone elses. just my $.02 there are plenty FA's out there if you are willing to look/work for them. Drilling a bolt hole on a FA lead by hand or with power is an incredible experience and a step above "just" a run-out on the sharp end. Think about that a while before adding a bolt to someone elses route. thats a total of $.04

like I said, I would never do that. I drill enough holes at work. Just sayin or sprayin, I can never tell.

I'm the first to admit that I wont ever lead 1/2 of the climbs in LCC because of the danger factor. That should make the climbs much less greasy for those that have the kahunas. Plenty of places to go.

mobley wrote: I'm the first to admit that I wont ever lead 1/2 of the climbs in LCC because of the danger factor. That should make the climbs much less greasy for those that have the kahunas. Plenty of places to go.

I'm running out of routes I can do in Eldo for the same reason- not good enough or not brave (stupid) enough...