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Adrian Leasure
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Feb 26, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 0
I'm planning on spending some time down on the White Rim and climbing a few routes. After climbing in Monument Basin I want to hit Moses. Is there anything worthy in between? I see there is a Candlestick Tower. Is there anything else or should I just blast through (at 5mph) to Taylor Canyon? Thanks in advance. Adrian
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Leo Paik
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Feb 26, 2006
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Westminster, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 23,129
Not exactly in between, but consider In Search of Suds.
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Adrian Leasure
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Feb 26, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 0
Thanks Leo, but I've already done that and the North Arete on Monster. I'm just hoping to find a reason to stay on the White Rim and drive all the way around it. So far I've done four routes and just really love that area.
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Andrew Gram
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Mar 14, 2006
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 3,725
If you don't mind some aid Chip Tower is great. Bring a cheater stick or you might get shut down by a mandatory knifeblade placement on the last pitch (frustrating to get 15' from the top and have to bail). Dale Tower next door would probably be cool too - the Wingate is excellent.
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George Bell
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Mar 14, 2006
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 5,050
There is an "Airport Tower" which is near one of the camp spots. I haven't climbed it but I remember scoping it out from our first camp. It is in Desert Rock, I'm pretty sure.
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Adrian Leasure
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Mar 18, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 0
Thank you Andrew and George. Those were actually on my list. I've done Dale Tower and it was just ok, but thought I might give Chip a try. Another one I am looking at is Islet in the Sky. It's supposed to be good. I was really hoping for some info on something further around the White Rim, between Monument and Taylor Canyon.
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Andrew Gram
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Mar 18, 2006
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 3,725
Chip is one of the better tower routes I have done. You'll love it. Mike Anderson said first 100' or so of the second pitch was one of the best 5.11 cracks in the desert (C1 for me), so maybe that makes it sound better. How was the wide stuff on Dale? Protectable? Thought it looked cool while I was on Chip, but the route didn't sound as good. Please post up if you do anything else on the White Rim. Not too many people seem to get off the beaten track down there (and beaten track is a relative term).
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Jeff Widen
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Apr 3, 2006
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 90
I did the first ascents on Chip and Dale, and am really psyched that people are doing those routes. I agree that Chip is the better route, although I think Dale would be great as a free or nearly free route (we aided the 1st ascent). The wide sections aren't that long, and I think something like 2 ea from #4 - 5 Camalot would do fine (in addition to the main rack, which in itself isn't that big). Haven't done Islet in the Sky, but have done Blocktop right next to it, which is killer! Ton of wide stuff for the 1st and 4th pitches, but it's worth it - it's a beautiful crack system! On Candlestick, I've only done the route on the side away from the rimrock, which wasn't that good - the route you rap down, on the rimrock side, look much better. One other you may want to look at is Tiki Tower, between Chip/Dale and Monster/Washer Woman I did the 1st on that as well, a really good route. Topo is in Cam Burns guidebook - 3 pitches, 1st is C1 or 5.10/5.10+ (fingers to thin hands/hands), 2nd is really fun C1 thin to fingers to hands - at least part would go free (5.11/11+?). 3rd is a pretty easy traverse, then 6-7 bolts to the top. Small summit, classic tower. Have fun out there - I agree that the White Rim is one of the best climbing areas in the desert for quality of routes and amazing atmosphere!
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