Climbing Near Lupton, Arizona

This is the shortest, slabbiest area at the New Side, and is a great place for people new to climbing or new to leading. It offers a small selection of unintimidating 5.6-5.8 routes, and gets sun all afternoon. Not that Mentmore is crowded, but there is never ANYBODY down at this end. The rock is typically sandy, with bits of varnish providing the best face holds. From the parking lot, just follow the road and keep walking right along the base of the wall, passing the Corridor, the Wall of Dreams, and the Balcony. At the Balcony, leave the road and approach the base of the cliff. Find a rough trail that heads up and right along the wall. This will lead you up to the Open Face Wall. About 5 minutes walk from the parking lot. Opie Ate for the Masses (5.7, 4 bolts) Tuna Melt (5.7, 3 bolts) Learning to Lead Crack (5.6, trad gear) Rueben (5.8, 3 bolts) To get to the next route, continue along the road. It is the very last route on the new side, and the only one that faces to the right as you look at the wall. Sideshow Rodeo (5.11 c/d, 4 bolts)

As with the rest of the New Side routes, this wall gets sun in the afternoon. Home of some of the more difficult routes on the New Side of Mentmore. Continue past the monolith and look for Flakes Don't Fail Me Now, the first route on this wall, which will be obvious by the devious looking flakes in the middle to the top of the route. Left Side (between "Flakes" and the arete). Flakes Don't Fail Me Now (5.10b, 7 bolts) Sink or Swim (5.11c, 7 bolts) Happy Crack (5.9, gear or TR) On the Edge (5.11b, 5 bolts) Right Side Stolen Dreams (5.11b/c, 5 bolts) Turquoise Classic Thunder (5.11b, gear or TR) Far Right Side (Detached Flake) Chai Tea (5.10b, 5 bolts) Time Bandits (5.10c, 5 bolts) Crescent Moon (5.10d R, 5 bolts)

As the rest of the New Side, north facing, this area gets sun in the afternoon to evening. Heading west along the new side wall, you will walk past The Monolith, past the Wall of Dreams, to a large boulder. Just past the large boulder there is a trail that leads you up to the balcony, which contains to great beginner routes. Lower Balcony (these two routes begin on the arete just below the balcony formation) Ego Terrorists (5.9, 7 bolts) Ten 'Til Eight (5.9, 6 bolts) Upper Balcony (Follow the trail around the large rock and up to the top of the balcony) Purchase Agreement (5.8, 5 bolts) Betty's Friend (5.9, 3 bolts + rap anchor) Betty's Redemption, (5.8, 5 bolts, rap anchors) A bit further right, around the next arete. Crow's Feet