Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall

D.D.M. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hookymaster General S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Muy Enfermo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Three Girls [M3G] S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Puberty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 562 total, 4/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, and all the more so since it was accorded "area classic" status in Falcon Press's 'Rock Climbing New Mexico". This IS an excellent route: steep and sustained, with interesting movement throughout on a variety of hold types. For the full effect, stay on the boltline; moving right to rest on lower-angled terrain makes it significantly easier. This route suffers a bit from loose and crumbly rock, however. Be careful not to bean the belayer.

Location

Look for an obvious boltline in the middle of the Swallow Wall, passing just right of the swallow nests themselves. Walk off, or lower off. Don't try to rap; my memory is that the ropes stick.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Watch out for the first bolt: it wiggles, and the hanger is loose.

Photos

Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
First bolt is gone--we pulled it out by hand. Second bolt (now the first bolt) is loose. Bring a stick clip and don't fall. Aug 7, 2017
First bolt & hanger was loose, however a crescent tightened it up nicely, as well as a few other bolts on the route. Feb 22, 2010