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Routes in (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall

D.D.M. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hookymaster General S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Muy Enfermo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Three Girls [M3G] S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Puberty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 339 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A fun route that is perhaps slightly soft for the grade, and suffers from too many hands-free resting ledges. An interesting start on very sandy, overhanging horizontal rails leads to a good ledge. Above is a steep, varnished face with only just as many holds as you need. This face is both the crux and the highlight. Above is another ledge and the final bolt. The wall overhangs steeply above the final ledge. Moving left and topping out as soon as possible is easiest, while moving up and right directly over the overhang on bomber holds is harder and more fun.

Location

Look for the only boltline on the left side of the massive inside corner that defines the Swallow Wall. Big, sandy horizontals are the most obvious feature of the lower part of the route.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring long slings for the anchor if you want a clean lower, or you're looking to TR.

Photos

Vid Miller
  5.9+
Vid Miller  
  5.9+
This should really list at 5.9+ ... it was a fun lead with a sliced left index finger though :). Even with the crux moves and the overhang, it's not a 10b! Sep 19, 2016
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10a/b
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10a/b
A lot of fun! funky anchors on top May 6, 2011

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