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Routes in (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall

D.D.M. S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hookymaster General S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Muy Enfermo S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Three Girls [M3G] S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Puberty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 212 total · 2/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

An excellent, sustained lead. Climb the juggy, overhung right side of the prominent arete. The rock is good, the clipping stances are good, the falls are clean... just pull until you pop. This climb gets less traffic than it otherwise might because it must be led: you cannot reach the anchors from the clifftop.

Location

Look for the prominent, steep arete at the left (west) end of the Bivi wall. Rap off this one: you won't want to have to get your slings back if you lower off.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is pretty far back from the edge: bring long slings if you want to TR after leading it.

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