Climbing Near Cardston, Alberta

Sofa Creek is a rarely visited area due to the longer approach. If you make the trip back you will be rewarded with one of the best routes in the area, Sullivan Falls. If you are quick, there are other quality routes close by to make the journey even more worth the effort. The routes face NE and seem to form early and stay late. There are two options for getting to Vimy Ridge, from here the approach is the same for both. 1:The traditional approach is to cross the Waterton River at the Marquis Hole campground. This can be as easy as walking across ice when it is frozen, or as epic as crossing the open river in a raft or canoe. From here continue SE on foot to gain the Vimy Ridge trail. 2:On low snow years or end of the season it may be possible to bike from the highway to join the Vimy Ridge trail. Park in a small pullout on the north side of the gate on Hwy 6. On the westside of the road is the Wishbone trail. Follow this trail for approx 7kms to where a tral breaks off left, This is the Vimy Ridge trail. Once the Vimy Ridge trail is gained follow it up the hillside until it reaches the ridge proper. Hereit will turn right and climb the ridge. We followed the ridge for about 5 minutes and then turned left and headed downhill. From here you are on your own, no trails though you may see some game trails. Once we hit valley bottom and Sofa creek, we crossed the creek and traversed slopes on the east side of the valley until reaching the climbs. This may not be possible in high avalanche conditions. If so, stay on the west side until reaching steep slopes and then cross over to the east side. The terrain on the east side as you get near the climbs becomes flat and treed. Expect to take anywhere from 2-4hrs for the approach. Snowshoes may be an asset.

The compound gullies are the icefalls that are visible from the road above the wardens compound on Mount Crandell. They vary in grade from WI2 to WI3+. The approach requires gaining some elevation but it is not too long and can be as short as 30 minutes at a moderate pace if it’s dry but it will be much longer if you have to posthole in deep snow.  Use the public parking space at the wardens complex

Waterton is located in the south west corner of Alberta, and borders Glacier National Park in Montana. With its beautiful scenery it is a popular place in the summer but in the winter it is quite easy to be alone. In the summer there is lots of hiking and scrambling to be had. There is rock climbing as well but info is scarce and expect adventure as it is the typical Rockies Limestone. In the winter it is home to some classic ice climbs such as, Experts Choice, Sullivan Falls and Quick and Dirty. When the weather is too cold in the Central Rockies, look to Waterton as it is sometimes warmer due to strong winds that can form as Chinooks. When it blows (and it usually does), it really blows! There are many ways to get to Waterton depending which direction you are coming from. From Calgary: Take hwy 2 south until just before Fort Macleod. Take the right hand exit and continue south on 810. When you reach Glenwood go right and go west on the 505. Follow this until you are able to take a left (south) on the 800. Follow that until you come to a T intersection and take a right on the #5 and go west until you reach the park.