Type: Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 479 total · 16/month
Shared By: Trevor H on Jan 23, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

Right gully is the right-most of the 3 obvious ice climbs that are visible from the road above the warden’s compound.

The first pitch of grade 3 ice is the most impressive icefall that is visible from the road.

Above the first continuous pitch of ice we had a long pitch of easy snow climbing to get to the upper icefall. Conditions were warm and we did not end up climbing the upper pitch but it looked pretty cool, maybe 30 metres long.

I listed this as 5 pitches even though we only had 2, as we’d have probably pitched out the snow climb if it had been ice and not snow. 

Once again be wary of Avvy hazard! Check in with the park wardens if they are around.

Recommend twin 70’s. (The first pitch is about 70 metres but the length depends where you start... you can shorten up the first pitch by going to the right, which starts the ice climbing higher up.)

Location

Park at the warden’s complex and hike basically straight upwards to the right most gully, to the start of the first pitch of ice. 30 to 45 minutes to do the approach, depending on your speed and the amount of snow.

Protection

Screws, V threads

Photos

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