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Yonderland Rock Climbing
Routes in Yonderland
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Fudge Finder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grizelda’s Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Cronies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Robby’s Runnel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shadoodled S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Elevation: | 605 ft | 184 m |
| GPS: |
49.7233, -123.1053 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 30 total · 30/month | |
| Shared By: | Novita Hamilton on May 23, 2026 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: FSR CLOSURE
Details
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Developed in 2024/25 by Nigel Slater and Robin Barley, this west-facing sport crag includes 19 well-bolted routes up to 20m in height. Defined by bulges, overhangs, and technical crimp sequences, it provides a strong variety of climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 grades, along with a couple of 5.12s. Situated about 10 minutes “around the corner” from Fern Hill, the crag stays shaded in the morning until roughly 2 pm, offering cooler climbing conditions and significantly fewer mosquitoes. By afternoon, the wall receives full sun, though temperatures are often moderated by a consistent breeze. All routes are fitted with lower-offs, and most require between 10 and 14 quickdraws. Please use personal quickdraws when top roping to help minimize anchor wear. Helmets are highly recommended, as some loose and friable rock is still present.
https://quickdrawpublications.com/wp-content/uploads/topos/Crumpit_Yonderland.pdf
Getting There
Approach as for Fern Hill from the large parking area at the end of the Powerhouse Springs Forest Service Road. Ongoing construction related to the Pipeline and Squamish Canyon projects is currently in progress, so please follow the posted parking signage marked “Visitor Parking.”
From the north end of the lot (near the toilet block), pass through the concrete barriers and continue along the trail for about 200m. Turn left into the forest onto the “Far Side” trail. After roughly 900m and 10 switchbacks, stay right on the “Far Side” trail at the wooden signpost marked “5 Point Hill” (photo 1). The trail then traverses west around the hillside. At the next fork, keep left toward “5 Point Hill” (photo 2). About 20m beyond the sign, continue straight into the forest (photo 3) and climb up the slope using the fixed rope; the crag will come into view on the left.
The approach is approximately 1.4 km from the parking area and takes around 20–25 minutes on foot, or about 10 minutes by bike. Knotted ropes are installed to access the ledge beneath the climbs. Due to the terrain and access, this is not an ideal area for small children.
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