Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,490 ft 1,673 m
GPS: 34.60358, -112.40041
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 575 total · 58/month
Shared By: Erin Connery on Oct 27, 2025 · Updates
Admins: Erin Connery, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Topo here. This wall offers long, two-pitch trad and mixed routes. Extensive cleaning to remove dirt and loose rock has made these lines safer and the rock quality throughout the upper three-quarters is very good, but beware of loose rock as they have not seen much traffic. Many lines can be linked into one long pitch with a 70m rope, though there are also plentiful midway gear anchor options. 

The section above Sportstar has routes with nearly all bolts except one or two trad pieces.

Groove, Blind Bear, Handspan, and Sportstar anchors provide convenient TR and rappel avenues to get down from the ridge.

Shade in the morning and sun by early afternoon.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Peavine Trail (just south of Point of Rocks), take the Virginian Trail through a gate. Aim for the middle/west facing section of Easter Peak, passing through a wire fence.
PLEASE BEWARE: Approach trail is rough with possibility of loose rock on ascent and descent. Take stone steps up, then keep along righthand wall, scrambling 4th class class right of two trees. Be mindful as you move of those below you.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Middle Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Middle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Easter Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
3rd Class d
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Road Runner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Clap
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Desert Grammar
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easter Chimney
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
3rd Class d
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR 2 pitches
Road Runner
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Clap
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Desert Grammar
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in The Middle »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments