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Nichols Ledge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Nichols Ledge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bird Lawyer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bleed Your Own Blood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bud Light Boulevard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	California Sober S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Dad Did Dabs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Deep Space Nine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dustin the Wind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Five Against One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hotbox with God S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Imposter Syndrome S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Jugular S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Leaves of Three T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Patient Zero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Space Invader S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Thirst Trap (Project) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Three Body Problem (mid cliff start) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Thunder Gun Express (mid cliff start) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

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Elevation:	1,538 ft	469 m
GPS:	44.45743, -72.331 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	195 total · 39/month
Shared By:	Ira OMC on Aug 8, 2025
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Access Issue: Peregrine Falcon closures March 15- August 1 Details

Private land. Although there is an established hiking trail, this cliff is on private land and needs to be treated with the utmost respect. Pick up trash, Drive and park responsibly, and treat other user groups with respect. over the past few years, the area has become overrun with tourists during the fall foliage season, much to the dismay of the locals. its important that we show ourselves, as climbers, to be a responsible and courteous user group, differentiating us from the mindless masses.

Description

Nichols ledge is a southwestern facing granite cliff about 200 feet tall. It is typically close to vertical and provides a good mix of climbing. The featured granite demands a lot of diverse climbing styles from powerful pulling to delicate smears and stems. There is a bit of grade range but it seems to really shine in the 5.11 area. Routes are well protected and fairly clean naturally. There are a lot of bolts- the routes that require gear typically only take a few pieces and the cruxes are bolt protected. The view is outstanding and the setting is serene and beautiful. Its a sunny and warm cliff, and it dries very quickly, making it suitable for climbing into November.

During August it can be quite warm but mornings can be very cool and the sunsets are fabulous. Large trees at the base provide shade for the belayer.

The cons: Poison Ivy thrives in the warm mini ecosystem at the base of the cliff, particularly at the right end. be cautious! Peregrine Falcon closures limit the season to late summer and fall. Heavy tourist traffic in the fall is annoying and makes parking problematic.

This area is enjoyed by many and it is very important to leave as low of an impact as possible. Be quiet, courteous and low profile. pick up any trash you see, park responsibly and in general just be a good steward of the land. Dont forget, the cliff is entirely closed during Falcon nesting season.

There is potential for more routes as well.

Route topos and more information can be found in The online guidebook : Vermont Rock on the Rakkup app.

Getting There

Find nichols ledge on google maps. its technically in Woodbury, but you would get to the trailhead from either Hardwick or Cabot. The parking area has room for 8 or so cars. There will be signs for Peregrine closures and a "no littering" sign. follow the trail from the parking lot downhill briefly , cross a tiny brook and then follow the trail to the overlook at the top of the cliff. From here, walk skiers right along the cliff edge on a herd path for a few minutes. when you hit a gully, curve back to the left along a game trail and traverse a slope to the base of the cliff. You should reach the cliff near a big oak tree, where the leftmost routes reside. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to get from the lookout to the base.