The Gargoyle Rock Climbing

'The Gargoyle' of The Twilight Buttress is the name given to the massif of stone that hosts all of the areas from 'Twilight Cave' up to 'Wild Wall'. This is possibly the best section of easily accessed, multi-pitch climbing in the canyon, and the summit gives incredible views down into the Narrows of The Poudre Canyon.

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Behold, stalwart climber! The Gargoyle gazes menacingly and without pity over the Wild and Twilight Walls from atop the Twilight Buttress. Many a worthy knight has slunk away in ignominious defeat after failed assaults on these walls. However, on his northern flank the Gargoyle smiles benevolently on possibly the best section of easily accessed, multi-pitch climbing in the Poudre Canyon.  Come one, come all!

Brave adventurer, you are about to embark upon an epic quest to cross the raging river, approach and encircle the fearsome Gargoyle.  Only the stout of heart and keen of wit will complete the Gargoyle’s Noose and return to tell the tale.  From the safety of your coach on Rt.14, gaze up into the creature’s stony eyes and feel the weight of the thousand chalked hands that came before you. This noble beast guards the secret jewels of the canyon, uber-classics such as 'The Market' (a route so fine you'd swear the rock was hand-chiseled by monks) and a hoard of golden chains! Other routes that are only whispered about in hushed tones exist for those seeking a traditional adventure.  Fear not, for when approached respectfully from the north, the Gargoyle’s nature is turned from malevolence to commerce.  He’s here to sell you a rollicking good time!

Don your armor, gather your trade goods, and cross the fickle Poudre by rope, ford or ice.  In clement times, the Gargoyle’s northern slab can be approached directly up the talus but, when the torrent rages, a more circuitous (though mighty fun) trail must be found.  Once at the base of the slab, the Gargoyle may be approached by sallying up [The Market] or any of the trad(e) routes that reach the headwall which constitutes the Gargoyle’s most formidable northern defense. Courteous visitors will depart via the Gargoyle’s back gate, slithering down their ropes and following the winding trail back to the river. 

Gather your courage and storm the headwall. Gaze in awe at the unobtainable golden treasure as you pass.  Tremble in fear at the precariousness of your stance inches from the void.  Rejoice, you have reached the Gargoyle’s lair!  Seal your bargain by leaving a small token of thanks or refreshment in the armored chest which you’ll find nestled in the roots of the Tree of Life.  Add your name to the rolls of the intrepid. Rest, feast and enjoy the peerless views down into the Narrows of The Poudre Canyon.

Historical Footnote:   

The history of climbing in the area, beyond the popular and well-known sport routes, is a bit scarce, although recent development in the last several years in the area from canyon heavy hitters like B. Beavers, et al. has brought more modern attention to the canyon's largest section of un-compromised rock. It's said that first successful circuit of The Noose was made by Sir Edmund Granitehands III and Lady Betty Crimpington, back “when Shoes had Leather Soles and Souls" (estimated 1494, but no one knows for certain). 

This is area is destined for long-lasting fame, so please tread gently.

DESCENT OPTIONS:

Recommended - rappel/walk off the back side AKA The Gargoyle's Noose 

Scramble up (3rd Class) to the Tree of Life at the summit of the buttress (10m).  Enjoy the view, have a snack, and sign the register in the ammo box nestled at its roots.

Proceed along the ridge away from the river, stay left, don't climb up, and you'll find your way to the bolted rappel station on a wide, sloping ledge behind a tree and giant boulder (30m).

RAPPEL 1: 25m freehanging to bolted station. Throw your ropes skiers’ left to avoid tree snaggles.

RAPPEL 2: 18m to easy ground, but it’s best to rappel further (30m) down the loose gully until you are at the same level as the 'Wild Wall' trail cairn.

Exit the gully to the right at the cairn onto the Wild Wall trail. Note that the trail turns right and uphill at a big log. Follow the narrow, steep path down towards the top of the 'Twilight Wall' or use fixed ropes to head back to the base of 'The Market' and '...Aisle 8'.

-- OR --

Rappel the route, possibly throwing your ropes on other climbers' heads and creating a I-25 into the corridor on a Saturday powder day traffic jam. 

Note: it is possible to walk off 'The Market' to the right by following the ledge 3 meters above the "Rocker Block" on P3. Move away from the river until you can descend the scree back to the start.