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Babylon Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,245 ft | 1,294 m |
| GPS: |
44.27762, -103.49223 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 418 total · 22/month | |
| Shared By: | Eric Godfrey on Sep 12, 2024 | |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Access Issue: Wonderland Cave parking is gated and only open during the cave's hours of operation
Details
Description
This limesonte gem has just been sitting here, waiting to be developed for years. Boasting lots of shade and some of the best quality limestone in the area, it is an excellent stop when exploring the sport climbing of the Black Hills. It will likely never get crowded due to its seclusion from Spearfish Canyon and The VC but offers a style unique from both areas (less pockets, more crimps, and even some rad chert blobs to mix it up a bit). The area really shines in the 12+ 13- range but there are some high quality 12-'s and 5.11's as well that are unquestionably worth the journey out here. Although it has plenty of shade, it is at a lower elevation than Spearfish Canyon so can be warm in the summer months. Sun depends on the time of year but you can expect shade all morning and some scattered sun late afternoon/evening depending how close to the summer solstice you are. Spring and Fall are the ideal seasons... like everywhere. It's a new area so grades are still settling, get on them and contribute if you think they're wrong.
SIDE NOTE: Don't POOP anywhere near the base of the cliff!!!! If you have to do your business while here, ideally please pack it out but if you refuse or didn't bring a wag bag Please, please PLEASE for the love of all that is sacred, go back to the top of the cliff and find a spot in the forest! Don't leave it buried for a dog to dig up later and lick my face aferwards!!!!!!
Getting There
Follow these directions, Google maps sometimes tries to take you on a road that is closed, and possibly requires 4wd even if it was open.
From Rapid City
● Drive to the town of Nemo. From Nemo Mercantile, continue on Nemo Rd. for ~0.5 miles turning right on Vanocker Canyon Rd. Drive ~4.8 miles and turn right on Alpine Rd. *** Drive ~0.9 miles and merge right on a rough forest service road. (A little rocky, but fine with clearance. CLOSED DEC 15 - MAY 15). Drive the forest road for a while, staying left through the first 3-way. At your next (slightly hidden) 3-way intersection there will be a “motorized permit area” sign, turn left onto a less-traveled forest road. Drive down this road for a couple minutes, rounding a left hairpin turn, look to your right for a small branch placed vertically into a cairn. Pull off to the right and park here or continue a few hundred feet to a bigger area where you can turn around before parking. Please don’t block the road for other vehicles. The cairn marks the start of the trail.
From Spearfish
● Drive on I-90E towards Sturgis. After ~20 miles, take exit 32 for Junction Ave. Turn right onto Junction Ave and drive for ~12 miles taking a left onto Alpine Rd. (Junction Ave becomes Vanocker Canyon Road shortly after leaving the interstate.) *Refer to above directions at *** for further directions to parking.
From Cheyenne Crossing
● Take US 85/Alt US 14A towards Lead. At ~4.1 miles, turn right onto N Rochford Rd. After ~0.5 miles, turn left onto Brownsville Rd. Drive for ~6.7 miles, cross the intersection of US 385 onto Nemo Rd. Drive ~13 miles turning left onto Vanocker Canyon Rd. Drive ~4.8 miles, turn right on Alpine Rd. *Refer to directions under Rapid City at *** for further directions.
Approach from parking ~15 minutes
● Walk downhill past a vertical branch in cairn to join the Centennial Trail. Take a left onto CT and follow this for ~10 minutes. Look to your right for a rusty bucket hanging in a tree to mark your turn onto a faint trail before committing to a body length of semi-exposed down-climbing to the base of the wall. If you have a big dog or babies in tow, keep on CT for another few minutes until you see a faint trail on your right, looping back to the base of the wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Babylon
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