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Elevation: 106 ft 32 m
GPS: -33.77964, 150.64082
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 169 total · 7/month
Shared By: J N on Aug 29, 2024
Admins: Matthew Clawson, Dan Flynn

Description Suggest change

At the base of the Blue Mountains, less than an hour's drive from Sydney, there is a 90m cliff where Glenbrook Gorge meets the Nepean River. If it's too cold in the upper mountains, consider a day here. Typically shady until mid to late afternoon, and ideal for a swim afterwards.

You'll find a mixture of sport and trad, including a few easy multi pitch routes. Rock quality is poor in places, so judgement and experience are required. Be extremely careful to avoid sending something down on your belayer, or into the gorge below, where there are occasionally hikers.

There are thirty or so routes in total (up to 11d sport and 12a trad), most of which haven't been added here yet. For more info see thecrag.

Getting There Suggest change

Reaching the crag:
Click for map. Drive to Leonay, park on River Rd before it begins going uphill, and follow a faint trail before the houses down to the river. As you walk south-west running parallel to the Nepean River, the path will become clearer. Keep going until you reach Glenbrook Gorge. 20 minute walk at a brisk pace.

When you reach the gorge, turn right and walk upstream along the highest ledge for about 20m, until you see a faint path on your right to the base of the cliff. At the base of the cliff walk left for a few steps and you'll see a couple of bolted lines followed by a crack system (Daddy Long Legs), followed by some more sport routes.


Reaching the climbs on the half-way ledge:

To reach the halfway ledge and the rest of the lines, either climb Daddy Long Legs (2 pitches, trad, 15 / 5.7), or retrace your steps for ten seconds, walking past all the bolted lines and keep going. Scramble up the faint path, which zig-zags up the edge of the gorge along the line of least resistance. There is a fixed rope for a sketchy section, then scramble up a cleft to reach the half way ledge. You can follow that to the rest of the lines.

As you walk along the ledge, use the fixed line (surprisingly slippery there), and you will soon reach bolts on a cliff Jasper's Jaunt (2 pitches, sport, 18 / 5.10a). If you walk past that, you'll go through a cave, and at the edge of a cave you'll see a crack system (Sacrilicious, 3 pitches, mixed trad, grade 15 / 5.7). Walk past that and you'll reach some shorter, bolted lines in the "snake cave".


If you top out:

If you top out you can abseil down from the chains and rap ring above Jasper's Jaunt with a 70m rope.
Another option is to stroll back towards the river, down a faint path which runs parallel to the edge of the cliff about 10m back from the edge. It will take you back to the halfway ledge. You can turn right onto the ledge and climb some more, or continue down passing the fixed lines to the approach path.

5 Total Climbs

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